Reccomended TS blade for edge jointing


bbarry9999

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17 minutes ago, treeslayer said:

I hope you're not saying that us jointer-less woodworkers should quit till we get a jointer or we are making inferior pieces. lots of folks don't have the space or money for a jointer and still make some very nice things.

I thought it was quite clear that I was talking about my situation as my blade does not produce a glue ready edge.

 

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The quality of cut from a sawn edge is dependent on many factors besides the blade that's actually doing the cutting. If the saw is setup well, and the boards are flat and straight, just about any decent quality blade with 24T or more should be able to leave a glue ready edge.  More important than the blade is that the material stays flat against the table, and the reference edge stays flush against the fence.   If the material is rocking or pulling away from the fence, the cut edge won't necessarily be a true 90 degrees square across the whole length of the board, and the cut will be uneven regardless of the blade.

More teeth on the blade tends to leave a cleaner edge, but more teeth also means more tendency to burn.  Honestly, for glueing it doesn't need to be like glass....it's not a visible edge.  In fact, a burnished or burned edge won't glue up as well an edge that's just cut cleanly.  You don't need a special blade that says that it'll give a glue line edge....most 40T or 50T general purpose/combo blades are more than suitable.  Glue ready and finish ready are two different things....and no blade will provide a finish ready edge.   Stick with good choices from Infinity, Forrest, Freud Industrial, CMT Industrial, Amana Tools, Tenryu, Ridge Carbide, Delta Industrial, Popular Tools, World's Best, Oshlun, etc, and you'll be fine.    

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On 1/14/2017 at 10:09 PM, davewyo said:

Maybe so. Usually Freud has a diagram of the tooth pattern printed on the plate of the blade. Next time you get a chance, check to see if yours has a TCG or FTG.

Freud uses two different grinds for their two styles of rip blades 

FTG = LM72 (full kerf) and LU87 (thin kerf) - flat bottom kerf

TCG = LM74 ((full kerf) and LM74 (thin kerf) - not flat bottom kerf

To help keep things confusing, they also offer the Diablo D1024 ripper that has an ATB grind - also not flat.

:-)

 

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