Popular Post difalkner Posted September 1, 2017 Popular Post Report Share Posted September 1, 2017 I don't do much of this but I was asked to take this Walnut base, made in the 40's and an heirloom from BAFB, and freshen up the finish to make it closer to the original Walnut color. It had faded quite a bit from sun and room light. They asked me to strip it but I refused because of the mess involved and I truly don't want to be doing any stripping. Besides, there was no way I could guarantee the safety of the precious original medallions because they can't be removed. Those that were removable have been added through the years but the original ones were firmly glued in place. We discussed using heat but some of the medallions looked like heat would be detrimental to their already delicate condition. So I masked everything off, dry sanded it with 220, cleaned with Naphtha, and then dusted one light coat of Nitrocellulose sanding sealer. I gave that an hour and then lightly scuffed it with 220 again to make certain it bonded ok. Once I knew that worked then I shot one wet coat of sealer and sanded it again. Then one light coat of gloss lacquer followed by toning with Mohawk Perfect Brown Ultra Penetrating Stain. When the color looked right I followed that with one coat of gloss followed by sanding a few hours later. After that I shot a final wet coat of gloss and let it set overnight. I think it came out nice and they really liked it when they picked it up today. I'll try to get a photo with all the medallions in place before it goes back to Barksdale. Before - Masking off - After - Enjoy! David 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tonya Posted September 1, 2017 Report Share Posted September 1, 2017 Your piece looks fantastic! I am new to wood working and am curious about how the stain works after applying a sanding sealer? And without stripping the piece too. Was there much change in color when you added the stain. I've never used a sanding sealer but it seems like if you put a sealer on first that the stain would no longer penetrate the wood. Just thought I'd ask. Thanks for confirming that the sealer went on before the stain. Tonya 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
difalkner Posted September 1, 2017 Author Report Share Posted September 1, 2017 Thanks, Tonya! The toner I used isn't for staining bare wood, although you could use it for that. Rather, it is a transparent dye to be used in lacquer for toning an existing finish. In that case it goes over the gloss coat I first laid down. I use it in a small touch up gun and just lightly dust it on until I get the desired color. Once that color is achieved then a coat or two of gloss on top will keep it looking that way. The drawback is that if you have to sand I after the toning you'll burn right through to the original color. So you have to get all the surfaces flat and sanded like you want before applying the toner. It may sound like a lot of steps but it's really pretty straight forward. And I just realized that I said I used Perfect Brown but what I actually used is Van Dyke Brown (slightly more red than Perfect Brown). David 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tonya Posted September 1, 2017 Report Share Posted September 1, 2017 Thanks Difalkner for the fast reply. I'm still gun shy about putting anything the piece I'm working on. It is an old walnut veneered cabinet. It originally had a super thick, shiny finish that I stripped off. I first put the stripper on in sections (like the can said) and it made the piece very splotchy. I then put the stripper all over three more times using lacquer thinner on Scotchbrite pads between each stripping. I finally got all the shiny finish off and the splotchy part is better but not gone. The curious thing is when I put the lacquer thinner on the piece the splotches almost go away. Making me hope that the sealer and stain may get rid of the splotches all together. I'm just wanting to use the right products before I start and I've been reading that a sealer will help stop splotches from forming. What about if the splotches are already there? Any help with this will be greatly appreciated. - Tonya Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
difalkner Posted September 1, 2017 Author Report Share Posted September 1, 2017 If the splotches go away when you put lacquer thinner on then they probably will also go away when you put finish on. Are you planning to stain the piece before finishing or do you like the color without stain? Have you sanded it? If you're going to stain it then you might try a light wash coat of stain - stain thinned out with paint thinner or Naphtha - and see how that looks. David Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tonya Posted September 1, 2017 Report Share Posted September 1, 2017 Yes, I do want to stain it a little darker. And yes, I've sanded it between each stripping session. I'm afraid to sand much more since it's a veneer so need to find a stain that won't raise the grain. I'm sure I can use 400 grit between seal coat and stain but need to go easy. I've been reading about get stains vs. oil base and still not sure which way to go. I'll need to use a wipe on stain and have read that gel stains penetrate well and if I seal first if I don't like the color I should be able to wipe it off. Is that your experience? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted September 1, 2017 Report Share Posted September 1, 2017 If you can't spray try Howard's Restor-a-finish. It comes in clear and many colors. I partially dissolves the old finish and adds a little color to spruce up the piece. Wipe on , wipe smooth. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
difalkner Posted September 1, 2017 Author Report Share Posted September 1, 2017 2 hours ago, Tonya said: Yes, I do want to stain it a little darker. And yes, I've sanded it between each stripping session. I'm afraid to sand much more since it's a veneer so need to find a stain that won't raise the grain. I'm sure I can use 400 grit between seal coat and stain but need to go easy. I've been reading about get stains vs. oil base and still not sure which way to go. I'll need to use a wipe on stain and have read that gel stains penetrate well and if I seal first if I don't like the color I should be able to wipe it off. Is that your experience? I wish I could help you with that, Tonya, but I've been doing this 30+ years and started out using Aniline dyes and professional wiping stains. I don't think I have ever touched a gel stain. Is there a spot on the piece you're doing where you can do some tests without ruining anything? David Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AceHoleInOne Posted September 2, 2017 Report Share Posted September 2, 2017 Nice job, thanks for sharing. -Ace- 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tonya Posted September 2, 2017 Report Share Posted September 2, 2017 David, I may just put the seal coat on and use Mimwax stains that I'm use to. I know it's not what a professional would use but it has worked beautifully in the past. If I end up with more splotches I'm hoping I can then go over with a gel stain. I'll start out on one of the sides and hope for the best. Thank you for all you advice! Wdwerker: I've used Howard's Restore a Finish for years on oiled walnut and teak pieces and love it, but this piece needs a shinny top coat in the end or at least a semi gloss. I am just trying to figure out what stains to use after the seal coat. Thanks for the help! Tonya 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
difalkner Posted September 2, 2017 Author Report Share Posted September 2, 2017 What matters in finishing is the end result, not the journey. I've used some Minwax before when I didn't have the Mohawk, Behlen, or JE Moser product etc.I wanted and it works just fine. I'm sure your piece will look nice. Be sure to post some photos when you complete this! David Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
difalkner Posted September 11, 2017 Author Report Share Posted September 11, 2017 Today I saw the assembled piece with all awards mounted so here's a photo of that (the lighting is a little different than my shop but it still looks nice). David 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.