Help!!!! Can paint and polyurethane be mixed together??


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I have an olde stained glass window frame I want to refurbish. It is weathered to the extreme. circa 1900 to 1920ish.  I was wanting to know if it was possible to mix a water (or oil) base paint with similar base urethane finish, thin it down and paint on the frame to strengthen it as well as finish it, letting it soak down deep into the wood.  As i am stripping it I am finding I have to use a plastic paint knife because a metal one is cutting into the wood. 

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If the wood is soft and roting or has dry rot it will either need to be stabilized or replaced. I've rebuilt corners of rotting window frames before with epoxy putty and a rot stabilizing solution. Mixing top coats will not solve the problem it'll only cover it up. If the wood is just weathered remove the paint sand smooth and use an exterior primer and paint if it's going outside. Clear finishes don't really protect wood  as well as an exterior paint will.

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+1 to Chestnut's advice. Punky wood needs to be stabilized, or just replaced.

However, I have seen latex paint mixed 50/50 with Minwax Polycrylic varnish to produce a hard, glossy outdoor finish. I can not speak to its durability, only that it cures harder than latex alone, and has a smoother, glossier surface. It may look very nice, but flexibility is actually a better feature for outdoor protection.

If the finish is indoors, it might work well for you.

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4 minutes ago, killkenny said:

I'm not too techie, so I will see what I can do. I do have a so so pic but will try to get some better ones. This may take a day or so. Just sayin.

There are a couple methods to do this. I recently rebuilt some storm windows using the follow method. I figured it doesn't matter this is a good way. If it's for interior use only you could swap the epoxy filler with any wood filler. The trouble becomes most wood fillers aren't structural only the epoxy ones. Meaning if the window is going to fall apart they won't hold it together the epoxy stuff will.

Starting condition. They were in bad shape and i had to nail braces to the frames to keep them together while i rebuilt them. I did this on a few windows o note that not all corners are the same.


I removed as much of the bad material as i could. I used a chisel but sandpaper or a putty knife would work as well. After i removed the  bulk of the rotted material i used Minwax wood Hardener to kill the bacteria that causes the dry rot. Follow the directions on the container. It's a very nasty product so use disposable brushes and do it some place well ventilated.



After that i used a 2 part epoxy wood putty there are a lot of brands i chose minwax because it was the cheapest i think. Follow the directions to mix it. This is not an exact science just try and get as close to the ratio as possible by reckoning. "I reckon that looks about right". Work a a comfortable pace the working time isn't super long. Also depending on the repair you might need to do a few coats or fillings. I had to do 3 or 4. This wood filler is structurally stable so you shouldn't have to worry about strength sacrifices. This stuff also is very pungant so again well ventilated area.


Sand smooth rinse repeat until it gets rebuilt properly. If you have details in the wood like molding curves this could be difficult, this approach more artwork than science there and i an't help you with that sorry.


Prime with a good primer rated for your exposure. And top coat with a coating to fit the exposure. What ever top coat you choose either outlined above or what ever else you have found this is the base that you will need to do a successful rebuild. This didn't take me long and the most advanced tool i used was a power sander. Remember that anything that touches the uncured products will be ruined so use disposable. Once cured it shouldn't damage anything. I did 3 storm windows in about 4 hours. Most of that was curing time.


To mimic  wood i used the bristles of a paint brush to fake in some wood grain on the paint.

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2 minutes ago, killkenny said:

Thanks for your help.


That wood hardener is a good product for softish wood that is dry rotting. What i didn't say but meant to, is that it does make the wood more firm as well as killing any of the rot. If the area is thin an exterior rated wood filler that isn't a 2 part can fill in some small areas and should last.

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