New pantorouter

[curlyoak]

My first Panto M &T. An amazing machine. The learning curve is steep here at the beginning. I imagine the curve will flatten in time. I intend to build a base unit when I can find the time. I ordered the plans. If you buy the all in package there is nothing else to buy.

[curlyoak]

Learning from mistakes. Below I resolved the above issue by slowly removing wood on the end. It took me 3 attempts to get it right. I'm comfortable with it now. This is like a college class going through a technical workbook. I think my 60 year old brain was better at this then my now 70 year old brain. It just means I limit the process to a couple of hours a day. Next the dovetails.

 

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[curlyoak]

I forgot to mention I am coming off of my second surgery in 10 days the last 3 days ago. Both they put me to sleep. The first one was a hand surgery that turned out perfect with no pain. The second got me less sympathy but more pain. It was oral surgery that still hurts but getting better. A full smile hurts. Anyway I think that affected dealing with a challenging learning curve.

I do think the things pantorouter  does add efficiency over other methods. I am not selling my festool domino. I could use the PantoRouter to make a large face frame but in my small shop the domino would be better.

How much work will a new sharp edge dovetail bit provide using 1/2" white oak? My project has 10 drawers. Thanks

[Mick S]

Hope You heal up quickly on both counts. 

The 8 degree Whiteside dovetail bit that comes with it should easily last through 10 drawers - times 10. One thing I'll remind you of is that once you have the depth set for the tails, lock both front AND back stops in place. That keeps you from inadvertently pulling the cutter straight back, which will ruin the joint.

Another tip, if you haven't already figured it out, is to trust the machine as much as possible and focus on the guide bearing and template rather than the bit and workpiece. That's where mistakes are made.

It's a very versatile machine, but with versatility comes added complexity and a steeper learning curve.

[curlyoak]

Thanks Mick.

4 hours ago, Mick S said:

depth set for the tails, lock both front AND back stops in place. That keeps you from inadvertently pulling the cutter straight back, which will ruin the joint.

That also was the issue for the box joint. Which I did not on the first and second try. The third try was a charm and the concept became clear. 

 

4 hours ago, Mick S said:

The 8 degree Whiteside dovetail bit that comes with it should easily last through 10 drawers - times 10.

I had no idea what to expect. Seems very efficient.

 

[curlyoak]

I am comfortable with the M&T and box joint. I might use box joints in my next project. The dovetails not yet. Getting closer. The book does not give all the steps for the dovetails. But Mac the owner of Pantorouter, does a great youtube on it which resolves any issue. The dovetails require 2 bits moving and the templates. I need more practice on that. The 8 degree 1/2" dovetail bit is 1/4" shank. Can that be had 1/2" shank?

[pkinneb]

On 4/20/2021 at 12:24 PM, curlyoak said:

I am comfortable with the M&T and box joint. I might use box joints in my next project. The dovetails not yet. Getting closer. The book does not give all the steps for the dovetails. But Mac the owner of Pantorouter, does a great youtube on it which resolves any issue. The dovetails require 2 bits moving and the templates. I need more practice on that. The 8 degree 1/2" dovetail bit is 1/4" shank. Can that be had 1/2" shank?

Yes Whiteside has a few https://www.whitesiderouterbits.com/collections/dovetail-bits/products/d8-687