Showing the figure in walnut


Bunnyblaster

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I'm working on my sons baby bed, and I've started finishing it. I'm applying layers of Watco Danish oil, and it looks awesome when the oil is wet, and pretty dull when it dries. I'm at 3 coats now and I've wet sanded with 400 and 800 on the last two coats.

How do I get that "wet" look, or more a semi-gloss "wet" look? Should I let it dry and top coat it with a poly or varnish? Any thoughts? This is my first furniture project.

The purpose of the finish is to make it look like a gunstock (the bed is designed around several John Browning gun designs). Heres a shot of the bed when I mocked it up to make sure everything fit before finishing. Its missing the metal bars that will form the slats (they're being finished by a gunsmith).

thanks for the help

Aaron

post-3173-0-27621100-1300396789_thumb.jp

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I'm not familiar with Watco, but I did Gretchin's Cradle using Sutherland Wells polymerized tung oil. It has two coats that were rather liberal and then one less so. The final coat was applied like you would wax. It has a semi-gloss appearance. You can see it in the Critique Room - Gretchin's Cradle. The legs are Walnut, so you can see if it's the sheen you are trying to get. It sounds like the wood is still absorbing. I'm assuming that you want a very close to the surface gun stock look finish. I'm guessing you'll just keep applying more coats. You could switch to an oil based poly or varnish. Or let it dry and coat with Shellac and then a water based poly. I'm not a fan of poly, unless it's absolutely necessary.

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I'm working on my sons baby bed, and I've started finishing it. I'm applying layers of Watco Danish oil, and it looks awesome when the oil is wet, and pretty dull when it dries. I'm at 3 coats now and I've wet sanded with 400 and 800 on the last two coats.

How do I get that "wet" look, or more a semi-gloss "wet" look? Should I let it dry and top coat it with a poly or varnish? Any thoughts? This is my first furniture project.

The purpose of the finish is to make it look like a gunstock (the bed is designed around several John Browning gun designs). Heres a shot of the bed when I mocked it up to make sure everything fit before finishing. Its missing the metal bars that will form the slats (they're being finished by a gunsmith).

thanks for the help

Aaron

post-3173-0-27621100-1300396789_thumb.jp

Either a wipe-on poly or an oil/varnish will do the job. Even though Danish oil is technically an oil varnish itself, it is more diluted. Something like Minwax's Antique Oil, or Gen'l Finishes Arm-r-seal (Marc's face, I believe) or something similar has a stronger concentration of varnish, and will leave a surface finish in satin, or gloss.

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Either a wipe-on poly or an oil/varnish will do the job. Even though Danish oil is technically an oil varnish itself, it is more diluted. Something like Minwax's Antique Oil, or Gen'l Finishes Arm-r-seal (Marc's face, I believe) or something similar has a stronger concentration of varnish, and will leave a surface finish in satin, or gloss.

Stupid auto correct. I meant Marc's faVe, of course.

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Watco Danish oil does a fantastic job of bringing out the natural beauty of walnut, but is not meant to be a heavy film finish. After 2-3 applications, even walnut will stop absorbing subsequent applications and you end up wiping of almost all that you wiped on. My absolute favorite top coat for walnut is a hand rubbed shellac finish since you can fine tune the sheen you want (I typically shoot for a nice satin). While some of the poly products are getting closer to a hand rubbed finish, I find they all still fall a bit short.

Here is an example of a pumice stone rubbed shellac finish over walnut.

And here is an example of just danish oil.

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Awesome awesome awesome!! My wife wants a baby bed just like this after seeing yours and we don't even have kids! Love the buck mark and gun stocks. I'm assuming metal rails at gunsmith means your blueing them? You will have to post more pics when its complete.

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Yeah, I was going to have the gunsmith blue them....only more of a black. I wanted a deep dark blue like you see on the great Browning shotguns. He did an old Ithaca 37 (Another John Browning design) for me a couple years ago, and it was beautiful. Before I took it to him, I thought I'd just cold blue it. It would look fine right? Yeah, no. He fixed it up awesome though. He's not quick. Gunsmiths are few and far between anymore, so he's as busy as he wants to be. He's had the steel stock for a couple months now, but I figure I'll wait till I'm done finishing before calling him about it.

I'm going to look into the shellac and test some stuff out. That table looks great.

Aaron

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  • 1 month later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Watco will build into a glossy film finish, but it takes several coats, a dozen or more. Apply it with a rag, each coat should be very thin. Imagine the sheen left on your dining table after you wipe it with a damp cloth, this is the thickness you're shooting for. You don't want excess, no runs or drips, nothing to wipe off. The build can be hastened with the addition of extra varnish, but experiment first. Were I you I would choose one of the Walnut colours, the brown dosen't kill the chatoyance but it does prevent the bleached look walnut gets over time.

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  • 3 weeks later...

being that this is for a bed for a small baby? Maybe you should consider something that is "food safe" or non toxic if ingested, it sounds kinda silly but when my son started teething he would bite onto the front rail ( where you have the joined gunstocks ) not sure how dangerous any of those finishes are especially to a child/ baby. looks awesome though

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  • 4 weeks later...

being that this is for a bed for a small baby? Maybe you should consider something that is "food safe" or non toxic if ingested, it sounds kinda silly but when my son started teething he would bite onto the front rail ( where you have the joined gunstocks ) not sure how dangerous any of those finishes are especially to a child/ baby. looks awesome though

Danish oil is basically an oil varnish blend finish. It contains boiled linseed oil, oil based varnish, and thinned down with solvent.

You can make it yourself cheaper.

Any finish is food safe or non toxic once it cured in 30 days.

You will need more than 3 coats to achieve the gloss finish.

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Danish oil is basically an oil varnish blend finish. It contains boiled linseed oil, oil based varnish, and thinned down with solvent.

Please note: The term "Danish Oil" is vague and does not describe a particular formula or list of ingredients. One popular "Danish Oil" contains a mixture of linseed oil and modified soya oil, colorants, a little resin and a lot of solvent; but no varnish. Another brand contains only Polymerized Linseed Oil and no other ingredients. All "Danish Oil", and similar type products are not alike. :)

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Please note: The term "Danish Oil" is vague and does not describe a particular formula or list of ingredients. One popular "Danish Oil" contains a mixture of linseed oil and modified soya oil, colorants, a little resin and a lot of solvent; but no varnish. Another brand contains only Polymerized Linseed Oil and no other ingredients. All "Danish Oil", and similar type products are not alike. :)

Thank you for correcting me

Danish oil is just a marketing term.

I'm curious where did you get the information for Watco danish oil ingredients? If Watco Danish oil its not an oil/varnish blend or wiping varnish, its a wiping oil finish?

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