Tilting top tables in the workshop


jHop

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I just purchased a drill press today, and I need a small table to put it on. Since space is at a premium (when isn't it?), I'd like to build a flip top table, and leave the other side empty, as simply a work surface (and eventual outfeed support for the planer table, which will be nearly identical).

Problem is, I can't find more than a handful of examples out there, and I need to have the table tilt in towards the shop instead of towards the wall. I'm trying to find examples of tables that show some form of stability or cross-bracing for the top, to handle the weight of the drill press. (and for the lunch box planer for the other one.)

I'm trying to add in a physical stop across the back, to keep the table from rotating too far in either direction.

Anybody got any suggestions or photos? (or links to plans online?)

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I put my miter saw on a table like that. Very solid. One side is the miter saw, other side a work surface. The work surface and saw deck were designed to match the height of the adjacent work surface so long stock would be nicely supported. Flips to the front. When locked, it doesn't move. It would have easily held my benchtop drill press.

Here's the blog entry on it with pictures.

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Do you have any more photos of this? Other than the pins, did you use any physical stops?

It looks like the frame is longer than the top in the first photo, but the angle does not show any detail. (And now, I'm off to see if I have a copy of the book you reference, and if not, request one from the library.)

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Do you have any more photos of this? Other than the pins, did you use any physical stops?

It looks like the frame is longer than the top in the first photo, but the angle does not show any detail. (And now, I'm off to see if I have a copy of the book you reference, and if not, request one from the library.)

I'll take more photos of it tonight or tomorrow morning and post them. It is only locked by the two cotterless pins. If you mean that the frame of the swivel top is larger than the MDF surface on it, you are correct. That's just how I wanted it is all. If you mean the swivel top looks smaller than the cabinet frame, no, they are the same length. More pics might help :)

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I got a book from Wood Magazine called "How to build a great home workshop" that has a flip top cabinet in it. The pivot is a steel rod sandwiched between two grooved MDF tops, the sides the pivot runs through is hardwood secured in rabbets in the MDF. They secure it with "turn buttons" which both limit rotation past 180 degrees a lock top into the sides of the cabinet.

The plans for it are available on their site, but they're about $6.

http://www.woodstore.net/flwoce.html

The book has some other good ideas for shop fixtures if you want to check it out, at $13 it's not too expensive.

http://www.amazon.com/Wood-Magazine-Build-Great-Workshop/dp/1402711778/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1300563379&sr=8-1

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It's a Makita LS-1013FL dual compound sliding miter saw. Very well built.

I like the fast miter settings and the numerous preset stops.

The bevel angle adjustment is a pita. Big lock on the back of the saw so you need access back there.

Never had a problem with power; it's cut a decent amount of 8/4 purpleheart with no issues and very clean cuts (actually, that was with the stock blade iirc)

I don't like the back clearance needed, but only the Festool Kapex and new Bosch address that.

I don't like the dust collection as it is meager. Some people put duct tape on the flexible catcher in the back to make the catcher larger, but that works to a degree... that catcher still gets folded over the stock during a cut greatly limiting its effectiveness.

DC and back clearance aside, I like it. I have yet to cut crown requiring a compound miter so the bevel setting doesn't bother me for the few times I need it.

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