Popular Post GlennL Posted March 24, 2023 Popular Post Report Share Posted March 24, 2023 I decided to build myself a nice pocket hole machine. I wanted something large enough to handle cabinet side panels. I wanted something similar in size to the Castle TSM-22. I only had a couple sketches to go by and pretty much “winged it”. I had a Porter Cable trim router, and a 2 HP Ryobi not being used, so both would be used for the build. I started with the 2 HP router to be used to cut the pocket. I decide to use the base as it would make it easy to adjust the height of the cutter. In hindsight, I should have just used the router motor and used a large U Bolt so reduce the swing angle. It would have reduced the length of the pocket slot. I used ¾” rods for the router to swing on, which was positioned with Clamping Shaft Collars. I used a piece of square tubing on one end to always put the router in the same position when removed and reinstalled. I also used a ¾” rod for the lever to engage the router. I did have to move this rod closer to the router pivot rod, and had to use a ¾” dowel to plug the holes. This also allowed me to shorten the length by 5”. This was taken prior to reducing the length. Now it was time to get the pocket hole slot setup. I used a temporary piece of ¾” plywood that the top would be made of. I could now figure out where the fence had to be positioned. This would also dictate where the drill router would have to be placed. Once the pocket router was in place, it was time to work on the router with the drill bit. I bought a castle bit which has a ¼” shank to fit the trim router. Unfortunately, I should have ordered it sooner, because it took a week before it showed up. I used aluminum angle for the drill router plate to slide on. These were placed at a 6 degree angle, to match the pocket router angle. The picture below illustrates what the finished cut angle, and drill angles are. I had to use a ¼” bit to get the router drill properly lined up with the pocket router bit. The bit had to be centered on the pocket cutter. ead I had to come up with a way to mount the drill router to the sliding plate. I used a hole saw that was pretty close to the diameter of the router. I drilled a ¼” hole through both supporting assemblies and inserted a ¼” rod that spanned the opening/spacing between the two supports. This allowed me to use a hose clamp that ran under the rod to secure the router in place. The router height was adjusted with washers under the 4 bolts that secure the router clamp assembly to the sliding plate. I had to come up with a way to engage both functions with one lever. I used a ½” bolt with a coupling, and an aluminum angle piece that could rotate as the assemblies were being moved in each direction. The aluminum angle piece was binding somewhat on the arm lever when it was pulled forward. I epoxied a piece of PVC pipe to create a much longer opening to slide on the bolt. I added “stop blocks” for both the pocket router and the sliding plate for the router drill so each function was cut and drilled precisely. The two routers were connected to a switch with one main connection exiting out the back. The picture below doesn’t show the drill-router plugged in. As you can see, I had to plug my “drill hole” for the jigsaw to cut the opening for the box. I had to move it forward so it wouldn’t interfere with the router assembly. Time to work on the top. I figured out what the dimensions had to be to give me the “working distance” in front of the fence. I knew the dimension of where the front of the fence had to be based on the “test platform” I used earlier. I then cut the pocket router slot in the table top. With the slot cut, I then had to router the top to accept a piece of 3M Anti-Slip stair tread tape. I setup the plunge router to remove enough material so the tape would be flush with the top. Without the tape the piece to be routed would move once the router bit engaged the wood. With the slot cut and the anti-slip complete, I secured the 80/20 aluminum fence to the table. I drilled 4 ¼” holes and used the 80/20 button head socket caps. It makes it easy to remove the fence if need be. The top flips open, and is held securely in place with two 5/16” knobs, one on each side in the front. A hydraulic cylinder on the right side holds the top in the upright position. Not shown in this picture. I used a 2” throw air cylinder to clamp the material to be cut on the table. I cut a circle from a piece of cherry for the cylinder. There’s a foot switch, and air flow valves to control the speed and clamping pressure. The valves also act as a “quick disconnect” for the foot switch. I knew I would be using it to cut pocket holes in cabinet side panels to attach face frames. With some as wide as 27”, I knew I’d have to incorporate a longer handle. I also made a tubular handle when working up close with face frame stock… For dust collection, I used a “Dryer Dock” with the pipe section cut off so I was left with just the mating flange. I originally had a connection on the rear of the main body, but that wasn’t pulling from the front where most of the shavings were being thrown. This collects like 95% of the shaving. The three holes cut in the front helps with the dust collection by allowing air to be pulled in front of the shavings/dust as it falls. I ran into a problem with sawdust from “drilling” the screw hole staying in front of the fence, and getting in the way of the pieces sitting tight up against the fence. I decided to fabricate an enclosure, and use a shop vac to remove the cut material. The enclosure sits directly behind the slot in the fence where the bit drills the pocket screw hole. I used some PVC to connect the vac hose to the enclosure. It worked perfect. Nothing left in front of the fence. Made a left and right stop to make it easy to cut the pockets in face frame stock. Easier to just slide and bump the face frames against the stops to make the two cuts. WELL...that's pretty much it. I have some cabinets to build so I'll take some video of it in use. 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Von Posted March 24, 2023 Report Share Posted March 24, 2023 Very cool and very impressive. Look forward to the video. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
legenddc Posted March 24, 2023 Report Share Posted March 24, 2023 Amazing that you put it all together without a plan to go off of and got the geometry as close as you did the first time. Very cool! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GlennL Posted March 24, 2023 Author Report Share Posted March 24, 2023 On 3/24/2023 at 4:49 PM, legenddc said: Amazing that you put it all together without a plan to go off of and got the geometry as close as you did the first time. Very cool! The geometry was my biggest fear. I did have to move the 3/4" shaft that the handle pivots on. Fortunately it was only a couple inches, and easily fixed with a couple 3/4" dowel plugs!!! I also shortened the overall length by 5". That I kinda expected...I figured it was easier to shorten it than stretch it! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted March 24, 2023 Report Share Posted March 24, 2023 That’s really a neat deal! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GlennL Posted March 30, 2023 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2023 As promised...here are a couple videos of the Pocket Hole Machine. One shows it's operation, the other, the internals. Operation...Pocket Hole Machine Operation Internals...Pocket Hole Machine Internals 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BillyJack Posted March 30, 2023 Report Share Posted March 30, 2023 Turned out nice.There have been several taken off the Castle pocket hole machine.. Ive been wanting to add mine into the table saw out feed table , so it’s out of the way.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Von Posted March 30, 2023 Report Share Posted March 30, 2023 Very impressive! Thanks for sharing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GlennL Posted March 30, 2023 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2023 On 3/30/2023 at 10:47 AM, BillyJack said: Turned out nice.There have been several taken off the Castle pocket hole machine.. Ive been wanting to add mine into the table saw out feed table , so it’s out of the way.. The tricky part would be dealing with the router that drills the "screw hole", as it sits above the tabletop surface. On 3/30/2023 at 10:48 AM, Von said: Very impressive! Thanks for sharing. Thanks...it's been working out really well! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BillyJack Posted March 30, 2023 Report Share Posted March 30, 2023 Castle use the PC 310. Looks like you used the PC 7310. This would be cheaper and better as it was getting expensive replacement for the Castle for the PC 310 replacement. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BillyJack Posted March 30, 2023 Report Share Posted March 30, 2023 How are you using it on “cabinet side panels” Are you making pocket hole boxes? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GlennL Posted March 30, 2023 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2023 On 3/30/2023 at 11:04 AM, BillyJack said: Castle use the PC 310. Looks like you used the PC 7310. This would be cheaper and better as it was getting expensive replacement for the Castle for the PC 310 replacement. I used what I had. The PC router was not being used, same for the router I used for the pocket. At least they are earning their keep again!!!! LOL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GlennL Posted March 30, 2023 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2023 On 3/30/2023 at 11:08 AM, BillyJack said: How are you using it on “cabinet side panels” Are you making pocket hole boxes? Yes...That's why I made the table top the size I did, to make cutting pockets in panels easier. I have a long handle I swap in when working on panels. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BillyJack Posted March 30, 2023 Report Share Posted March 30, 2023 About the only thing I pocket hole is face frames and finished backs on cabinets.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post GlennL Posted March 31, 2023 Author Popular Post Report Share Posted March 31, 2023 They are great for assembling face frames. I also use them for attaching the stretchers, and include "front pockets" for attaching the face fame to them. The bottom shelves have pocket holes as well on the fronts for attaching the face frame. If I don't dovetail drawer boxes, I'll assemble them with pocket holes. The picture with the single pocket was just to test the pocket depth of a cut in the cabinet panel to attach the face frame. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BillyJack Posted August 2, 2023 Report Share Posted August 2, 2023 How has the jig worked out for you. I keep wanting to rebuild mine, but I want it in a table so it’s not in the way.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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