logan.newman Posted June 9, 2011 Report Share Posted June 9, 2011 I'm looking for thoughts/help on the necessary work to turn an exterior, detached garage, into a woodshop. I know that i need to insulate, get electricity run, install a floor and replace the garage doors, but I need suggestions on the type of doors, floors, and other stuff. I live in Rochester NY where it is very cold in the winter and often hot in the summer. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vic Posted June 9, 2011 Report Share Posted June 9, 2011 Bobby has been doing a good job on his blog. http://www.artofwoodshopdesign.com/ 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
areynoldsre Posted June 9, 2011 Report Share Posted June 9, 2011 second checking out Bobby's blog, lots of good stuff there. I read his stuff and am now working through redoing my shop space. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jesse Posted June 10, 2011 Report Share Posted June 10, 2011 I live in Rochester, NY, too! I also know a crafty fellow named Logan, and there are not a lot of Logans around here that I am aware of... Is this Apollo Laser Art Logan? I am using half of a one car garage that is not insulated and only gets power from a fat extension cord. Everything is stacked and situated just so in a such way that I can get it out when I need it and put it back to do the next thing. I guess my point is that you can make anything work if you really need to. That said - can you post pictures of the space or dimensions? As far as doors go, to me it would depend on the size of the garage and height of the opening. I like a lot of overhead space, so I would prefer barn doors to overhead doors if you've got less than 8 feet. I would assume the current floor is a concrete slab. Last winter I spent a lot of hours standing on the cold hard concrete while turning at the lathe. Finally I got smart and threw a few 2x12 boards down - even this made a huge difference! If you want to put real flooring down over the concrete, pick up some DriCore subflooring and some bamboo tongue and groove flooring. This combo makes a very comfortable and moisture stable flooring solution over a bare slab. As far as electrical, it is best to have a subpanel installed in the garage. You can still just use a heavy gauge extension cord like *some* people do, but that can get tricky even with seemingly few things running (lights on + dust collector + tablesaw + really heavy ripcuts = instant darkness). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bobby Posted June 10, 2011 Report Share Posted June 10, 2011 Hello, Logan, I would say develop an "Order of Construction" list so you can plan what to do first before the next thing. This means at least taking a first pass at your overall shop design first, but it's worth it so you don't miss something by building on the fly. I found this useful after I had to tear some things apart to get at something I should have done first. My list began by patching up "existing conditions", such as sealing up exterior cracks and penetrations around siding, hose bibs, torn vent screens, etc. Then I prepped surfaces of things I was going to seal and paint by washing/ cleaning concrete, siding, and roof eaves. Take a first pass at your utilities design so you know if you need to add an electrical sub-panel or add wiring, gas lines for any heaters, pex tubing for radiant in-floor hydronic heat, etc. before insulating or closing up any walls. This is where I got into my shop layout (you'll find that one area of design leads to another). Then I would focus on the interior envelope design: Basically the layers, from exterior sheathing to interior drywall or beadboard of your shop Walls, Roof, Roof/ Attic venting, Sub-floor. Seal up everything; I went as far as sealing up every stud bay, sill plate and top plate because I'm weird like that. Determine if heat or cold is the main issue (or both) and consider things like a radiant barrier, vapor barrier/ condensation issues related to your climate zone, whether you want AC or a source of heat (in-floor radiant heat, closed-combustion gas heaters, etc.). Also consider mitigating noise, security, and insect entry. I try to prioritize things based on budget but stick as closely as possible to my order of construction. I let some things go for now in favor of doing the drudge-work that should be done first. Design your floor layers to prevent moisture from migrating into your shop; my concrete floor will be getting a roll-on crack-preventer that also seals out moisture before I install my tile/ wood/ aluminum inlay floor. Bobby Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheNehlsEnd Posted June 10, 2011 Report Share Posted June 10, 2011 It sounds like your working with a bare bones structure with a dirt floor? Bobby pretty much has it nailed down. If your anything like myself budget can effect the order of things sometimes. I'm currently setting up a new shop that was delivered to my home. Since I now have a sound structure, my next step was the electrical and envisioning every possible electrical situation I may have. Needless to say I have no need for extension cords in the shop other than the retractable over the bench for short corded tools. I also have more 220 sources in the shop than I ever had. This allows me to change the shop layout in almost any configuration I could come up with. After having shops with concrete floors, I'm starting to enjoy my new wood floor and find it easier on my body. Wood floors would allow for access to duct and electrical work that may be needed in the future. As for doors I don't care for overhead doors and would opt for double doors or sliding door. Look forward to hearing more about your new shop. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
capnjack2 Posted June 10, 2011 Report Share Posted June 10, 2011 If you want to put real flooring down over the concrete, pick up some DriCore subflooring and some bamboo tongue and groove flooring. This combo makes a very comfortable and moisture stable flooring solution over a bare slab. This is a great suggestion. We did this in my friend's basement some years ago when DriCore first came out. Then a snap-together floor on top. Done! As for the layout, I used Grizzly's Workshop Planner. Works pretty well, until you get into the 3-D of things. Also, have a look at this article at FineWoodworking.com. I bought the issue actually. Great read! Goodluck! Jack Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
logan.newman Posted June 10, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 10, 2011 Thanks everyone for your help! I really appreciate the input onthe wood flooring - mine is a pitted concrete floor and I wasn't sure quite what to do. I do want tto put in some sliding doors (like barn doors) and I'll probably do a panel box in the workshop - i think thats the best idea. Bobby - I signed up at your site and downloaded the planner. Looks great, thanks! Jesse - different guy, sorry. Suggestions on heat sources? I was thinking either radiant heat or a woodburning stove. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jesse Posted July 3, 2011 Report Share Posted July 3, 2011 Suggestions on heat sources? I was thinking either radiant heat or a woodburning stove. I've been using a little fan/space heater unit, but that system could use a lot of improvement! What I'd like to get for this winter are some ceiling mounted radiant heaters. Those things bake! I thought for a moment about getting a salamander, but then realized that it might not mix well what with all the wood dust... There's a lot of good stuff on Bobby's site! I'd bet it would answer most any question you've got. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NotAShakerMaker Posted July 13, 2011 Report Share Posted July 13, 2011 You should approach the project like you would if you were building a house. Foundation, roof, drainage, electrical sources, HVAC and so forth. Here is a website that documents the entire construction process for a free standing workshop. This man is my hero: http://benchmark.20m.com/workshop/NewShopBuild/04_Construction/Shop_Construction.html DRIcore isn't a solution to any moisture problem or if you get water on the wood panels, you might be in trouble. I've read many articles of water getting trapped between the DRIcore and the finished flooring material. With no place for the water to evaporate, mold and rot attacks the chip board attached to the plastic and you have a real mess on your hands. Water vapor should be given a way to escape out of the floor and out of your shop. Be honest about what is wrong with the current building and get expert advice on the true cost to fix those problems. Don't be afraid to demo the building if the work-arounds drives costs and your sanity is threatened. There is nothing worse than realizing that after all the time and money you spent, the shop falls short of your needs. Nix the idea of sliding barn doors. They are impossible to seal. Fine Woodworking had a great article in their annual shop issue on how to build your own doors that are energy efficient and secure. Don't forget about keeping your stuff your stuff. Too many workshops get robbed because security was a low priority. Even if you have nothing of value, the damage from vandals or frustrated thieves can really ruin your day. As others have stated with greater precision and elegance, get a plan together and think through the construction steps. I'm an infrastructure guy, so I'm interested in questions like drainage, runoff, structural support, HVAC efficiency and costs, electrical supply and so forth. My basement workshop is going to have the framing inside the basement walls, with the insulation between the frame walls and the CMU foundation. That way, the stud bays are empty and I can run conduit and wiring anywhere. I will have both wall and ceiling drops for the 240v outlets, so moving service for a new layout or new machine won't be a big hassle. I'm actually spending more time and money on how to get a solid, draining path in my lawn and down a slope than I ever thought possible. But I realized during the planning process I had a problem: How do I get heavy machines and wood to the rear of my house without my truck getting stuck in soft earth or mulch after a rain storm? The distance from my driveway to the back of the house is 85 feet. I had GeoTex tracks priced out and it was way too expensive for me. But I need to have a firm base. Right now the solution seems to be to build to subsurface structures consisting of ACQ lumber framing boxes 2 feet wide and 85 feet long, filled with road base and drain stone wrapped in filter cloth and then covered in mulch. So sometimes the little details really put a thorn in your side when you start thinking about how the shop will actually get used. Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tobbe Arnesson Posted July 14, 2011 Report Share Posted July 14, 2011 How do I get heavy machines and wood to the rear of my house without my truck getting stuck in soft earth or mulch after a rain storm? Buy this thing: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=elb0LZCQ9oI See just after 0:30. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CJC5151 Posted January 24, 2012 Report Share Posted January 24, 2012 That thing is awesome Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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