iamwelty2 Posted July 4, 2011 Report Share Posted July 4, 2011 I am finally at the point I'm ready to finish a bathroom vanity, shelf unit and clothes hamper that I've made out of oak. I am using Sherwin Williams vinyl sealer T67F3 catalyzed and SW Pre-cat T77F37 Medium Rubbed Lacquer. I finish sanded a test piece with 240 grit. Sprayed two medium coats of the sealer, sanded with 380 grit and then applied two medium coats of the unthinned lacquer... The piece looks great, but way to shiney for the wife!! I used a Binks 2001 siphon feed gun, 55 lbs air pressure seemed to spray the best... approx. 8" from the piece, temperature was in the 80's. (I'll probably switch to my HVLP gun when I do the actual pieces.) I am a former autobody guy and sprayed a ton of lacquer paint back in the 70's ... this is the first time I've tried to spray wood finishes... Is there a flattner available? Should I do any grain filling? Any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Rozaieski Posted July 4, 2011 Report Share Posted July 4, 2011 I am finally at the point I'm ready to finish a bathroom vanity, shelf unit and clothes hamper that I've made out of oak. I am using Sherwin Williams vinyl sealer T67F3 catalyzed and SW Pre-cat T77F37 Medium Rubbed Lacquer. I finish sanded a test piece with 240 grit. Sprayed two medium coats of the sealer, sanded with 380 grit and then applied two medium coats of the unthinned lacquer... The piece looks great, but way to shiney for the wife!! I used a Binks 2001 siphon feed gun, 55 lbs air pressure seemed to spray the best... approx. 8" from the piece, temperature was in the 80's. (I'll probably switch to my HVLP gun when I do the actual pieces.) I am a former autobody guy and sprayed a ton of lacquer paint back in the 70's ... this is the first time I've tried to spray wood finishes... Is there a flattner available? Should I do any grain filling? Any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated!! Wood finishes can be treated just like automotive finishes. Neither are typically left as is straight from the gun. They are typically rubbed out & polished after a full cure in order to obtain a flat surface and the desired sheen. After the final coat of finish, let it cure for about a week. Then knock down the sheen, dust nibs and high spots with some 400 grit until the surface is uniformly dull. Move on to 600 grit to remove the 400 grit scratches, being careful not to sand too far and go through the finish. After the 600 grit, finish with 0000 steel wool & paste wax for a level, consistent satin sheen. For a higher gloss, after the 600 grit, you can move to finer polishing papers like 1000, 1500 and 2000 (found in an automotive store, so you should be familiar with them ). For a super high, water like gloss, finish with automotive swirl remover and finally automotive polish. You can also use the more traditional rottenstone and pummice instead of the fine automotive papers and polishes. But the automotive products are easier and less messy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thewoodwhisperer Posted July 4, 2011 Report Share Posted July 4, 2011 Rubbing out is a great option. Lacquer is really is to work with that way. But if you are not inclined to go that route, you might consider either buying another can of medium rub SW lacquer or even just purchasing some flattening agent to add to your existing can of lacquer. Something like this would work nicely: http://www.woodworkingshop.com/cgi-bin/471A17D2/mac/additmdtl.mac/showItemDetail?loadItem=B61001006 Edit: Just re-read your post and noticed you are already using medium rub. Did you stir the can thoroughly? I find that with the SW stuff, you need to stir relatively frequently to make sure all the flatteners are well mixed. And medium rub tends to produce a nice finish that falls somewhere between a satin and a semi-gloss, to my eye. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darnell Hagen Posted July 5, 2011 Report Share Posted July 5, 2011 +1 on what Marc said about stirring, I use 35° Danspeed, I'll stir it at least twice per spray day. You're putting on a lot of coats. I haven't used sanding sealer in years, I just shoot two coats of final product. If I have to make a repair and shoot a third, the difference in gloss is noticeable. I also sand between coats with a 220 grit sponge, that may make a difference. I'm surprised you had success at that PSI without thinning. I mix 10-50%, depending on the situation. That would lighten up your coverage. Flatteners are available, but better to rub out the final coat to your desired sheen. Grain filling will smooth out the surface and make it seen even glossier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AceHoleInOne Posted July 5, 2011 Report Share Posted July 5, 2011 Give your local supplier (Sherwin Williams) a call or go in person with your test sample and finishing schedule. They should be able to help. After all, its there products and know of any tricks or tips on their products and will stand behind them. Don't be afraid to tell them you are new to wood spraying. -Ace- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimV Posted July 5, 2011 Report Share Posted July 5, 2011 Ditto on what Marc said about stirring. I did some test panels with the medium rubbed and dull rubbed effect for a kitchen. The dull rubbed effect actually looked glossier than the medium rubbed. I took the samples into the Sherwin Williams commercial account store (not the consumer paint stores) and asked for their help. They immediately pointed out that I didn't suspend the dulling agent in the dull rubbed effect. There is so much in there that it tends to attract to itself and become heavy and settle rather quickly. They did a quick test for me and exactly replicated what I did. If you are sure you have the lacquer throughly mixed, and the medium is still too glossy, take the gallon container or whatever size you have to Sherwin Williams and ask them to modify the medium rubbed effect to dull rubbed effect. They can add the appropriate amount of flatting agent. I did this once for the gallon of the medium rub once we decided that we wanted the dull rubbed effect. Then I purchased many more gallons of the dull rubbed. They also told me they can produce any level of flatness you want up to absolutely no reflection at all by adding the flattening agent. And I did thin with 25% thinner for better flow through the gun on both the vinyl sealer and pre-cat lacquer. FYI, this was my finishing schedule on that kitchen: shellac, stain, shellac, glaze, shellac, dye, shellac, vinyl sealer, 5 coats pre-cat dull rubbed lacquer. I only sanded lightly between the vinyl sealer and coats of lacquer for smoothness. I did not sand or rub out after the final coat of lacquer. I did this because I was finishing multiple cabinets at different times and I didn't think I could match a rubout so I relyed on the dull rub effect to give me the final sheen which matched all the other cabinets. Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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