Andrew Pritchard Posted June 26, 2012 Report Share Posted June 26, 2012 You dont run just 110 to get a 60a service. You run a 60a 220v and split that up as needed into 220 and 110v outlets. Don Agreed. You'll kick yourself if you only run a 110v line out, and then later on have to get a spark back in to run the 220v Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gepetto Posted August 29, 2012 Report Share Posted August 29, 2012 you bring up an amazing point that i havent considered deeply enough... style. Honestly, i don't know what style i'm going after. I don't want anything overly ornate. is there a "guide to furniture styles" that goes into what they're made of, etc? i'm stoked though, i just got a package of 6 books from amazon. Can I ask what books you got from Amazon? I would be interested learning more about the different types of wood and how they behave. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duckkisser Posted August 29, 2012 Report Share Posted August 29, 2012 Can I ask what books you got from Amazon? I would be interested learning more about the different types of wood and how they behave. here is a good site that has a ton of different types of lumber and how it well it works or even health risks http://www.wood-database.com/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TRBaker Posted August 29, 2012 Report Share Posted August 29, 2012 Scape, you are going to find that running your larger stationary tools on 220v makes all the difference in the world. Your tablesaw will tend to bog on heavier stock if you are running 110v and your better jointers are already wired for 220. There are few things in a shop that are more frustrating than having your saw stop in the middle of the cut because 110 just didn't have the "brass" to get it done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lclocke Posted August 30, 2012 Report Share Posted August 30, 2012 Everyone has good tips on here. While I dont consider myself an expert by any means I too wanted to start using cheap easy to use wood. For a year or more I told my wife regularly "when I get good Ill be able to start using cherry and walnut". I listened to a podcast one morning and they said not to limit yourself on a certain wood because of your skill level. As you play around with different species youll learn there unique properties and how to handle each one. Someone did ask a great question. What are you building? Thats what it comes down to. I would definitley search for a lumberyard close to you. It may be a bit of a drive but in the end itll be worth it. Most can even mill a face and edge for you to get started for about .20 cents more a bd ft Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lclocke Posted August 30, 2012 Report Share Posted August 30, 2012 Scape, you are going to find that running your larger stationary tools on 220v makes all the difference in the world. Your tablesaw will tend to bog on heavier stock if you are running 110v and your better jointers are already wired for 220. There are few things in a shop that are more frustrating than having your saw stop in the middle of the cut because 110 just didn't have the "brass" to get it done. This is because 110 motors generally have lower horse power ratings. A 3hp motor at 110 draws 3 times the current or amps as a 220 motor with same hp making the 110 more powerful but over working it. 220 motors saves the life of the tool and makes it more energy efficient. Most household breakers wouldnt hold up to the startup surge of 110 with higher hp ratings and trip every time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Texfire Posted September 1, 2012 Report Share Posted September 1, 2012 Good advice in this thread. A couple additional ideas: Read. A lot. Find out what kind of woodworking inspires you. Look at pictures and see what makes you want to do the same. For me it's the clean lines of Arts and Craft, the simple functionality of Shaker. For others its the oriental accents of Greene and Greene, or the traditional lines of Federal. Once you figure out what you want to build, you'll know what wood and tools you'll need. Watch videos for tips and techniques. There are lots of good resources available in the members of this site. Take classes, both power tool based and hand tool focused. Maybe one or the other will call to you, or a hybrid of both. This will lead you to seek tools that are required by the work. If you can do this before buying tools you'll save money in the long run. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mister Pants Posted September 4, 2012 Report Share Posted September 4, 2012 Above all, avoid practicing with cheap grades of pine or construction lumber. All you'll do is frustrate yourself. While I do agree with that this can be problematic. If you live in the south, where you can get southern yellow pine from the big box stores if you're careful with what you choose it works fairly well (assuming you let it dry enough). It's a lot harder than regular pines and works a lot easier, and it's cheaper than poplar. Otherwise, I'd second the poplar and red oak choices, and add ash, they're usually the cheapest of the hardwoods. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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