Router Table of my dreams

[sj2494]

i am not new to working with wood but i am new to furnature making. i know that good tools are worth there weight in gold amd here is my idea for a router table. Im going to build by own cabnet on casters and have space for bits and other routery stuff. Im probably going to buy a Incra top and ls positioner i dont know what base or router i want to use. i was thinking about the new wood pecker plate but didnt know if anyone that has had one also what size and or model router should i get i realy hate to buy thing twice and i have always had good luck with makita and portercable. any thoughts. also look for my shop build in the future in 2 weeks i am building a dedicated shop out in my back yard and getting out of the boiler room.

[Vic]

Congrats on the upcoming shop, Steve. I have the BenchDog router lift with a PC7518. It works very well for me. Love the BenchDog!

[iSawitFirst]

I'm using the JessEm lift and love it. I have a fixed speed PC router I'm using but I strongly encourage you to get a variable speed router.

The Triton 2000W is a plunge router and can be mounted to a router table. It has it's own adjustable "lift" system built-in. Pretty cool.

[PaulMarcel]

If you decide on a Woodpeckers router plate, they sell TwistLock ring inserts. Some are phenolic, others aluminum. They are discontinuing the aluminum due to costs. If you go for this plate and prefer the aluminum inserts, you might want to snag them before they are gone. Just checked now, actually, and they are off the site's regular catalog, but in the clearance, there's a set in condition 'C' (some scratches) at half price. Likely a demo. Call them if you want a new one in case. Again, just if you want the aluminum ones.

If you decide on a Woodpeckers lift, verify it does everything you need for your router. For example, the super slick PRLv2 lift works with my Bosch 1617 router, but that particular model can't be lifted for above-table bit changes.

If you plan on putting the router in the table with a lift and never really taking it out (i.e., you have a freehand router), you can usually save money on the bigger routers by buying the motor only.

[jab73180]

here are some good reviews of routers and lifts.

http://www.newwoodworker.com/reviews/pc7518rvu.html porter cable 3 1/4 hp router

http://www.newwoodworker.com/reviews/eliminchuckrvu.html RC eliminator chuck

http://www.newwoodworker.com/reviews/wdpkprlv2rvu.html woodpeckers PRL V2

this is kinda my dream setup for when i get a big enough shop. I would like to have a cabinet saw with the router lift in the end like this

http://tomsworkbench.com/2008/03/31/tools-i-use-my-table-saw/

it is good cuz you can use the fence from the table saw for the router too, just lower the router and its back to normal. and what else can you use that area for.

[sj2494]

The triton looks like a good machine but a quick google search showed its from the uk and runs on 240v is there a us vertion out there

[Vic]

The triton looks like a good machine but a quick google search showed its from the uk and runs on 240v is there a us vertion out there

You can contact Woodcraft's tech desk and ask them. http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2080240/27329/Triton-3-14HP-Plunge-Router.aspx

[Beechwood Chip]

Mine works fine on Philadelphia power. I believe the company is Australian, and the TRC 001 is the US version. When I was reading reviews I kept running into different model numbers which were the US and original (Aussie) versions. Mine says, "input: 120V - 50/60 Hz". It also says, "Weight: 6.1 KG (13.5 lbs)" which is why it's going to live upside down in it's table most of the time.

[Bobby Slack]

Jerry Work at has a really interesting solution. He does not have a direct link to his solution but if you go to http://jerrywork.com/ and then click on "tutorials", then scroll down to "mounting routers and other devices in the space between two MFTs ..." you will see the solution I like.

I like this solution because then the space can be freed when not in use. The router table takes a lot of room. I invested in the Freud system because Festool did not have a solution. I would use a router table lift that has to fit on a board that will need to be rabbeted on a 3/4" and where it connects with the MFT's has to be 1/2", then use the power, flexibility and space of the MFT system.

So that is my approach ... I mean ... I will use Jerry's approach on my shop and get rid of my router table.

[sj2494]

thanks alot it looks like ill use the plate that come with the table and use the triton thanks

[BillN]

When I first got going I went cheap on some things and pricey on others. The router table was something I went high end on - for the same reason you point out - I didn't want to go through it twice. I got a JessEm Master lift table and put a big PC variable speed router in it. Actually, the lift mechanism appears to be designed around the big PC router. The lift mechanism is a dream. I can change the bits from the top. The table is phenolic and it came with a variety of inserts. The fence has an attachment with a very heavy duty miter guage. It has a good dust extraction setup. The only thing I added besides a high fence was a micro adjuster for the fence that allows me to move the fence in very tiny increments (perfect for sliding dovetails). I suppose I could have built my own table, but then you either go under the table to adjust bit height or use one of those above table mechanisms. Some of those require a lot of cranking to get where you want to be (wrist fatigue). It wasn't cheap, but I haven't had any router task where the table disappointed. Also, JessEm has great tech support.