Proper ripping tecnique?

[Derekkest]

I am gonna try my hand at some cutting boards. I have some 8/4 hard maple laying around and I want to rip the board down to the proper widths. So, my question is this...

When ripping boards, do I place the finished side towards the fence or do I let the finish side float and place the original board being cut against the fence?

I am not a huge fan of the table saqw and I have visions of flying boards and such. Just trying to see if there is a proper etiquet when it comes to ripping boards and make it a habit to get into.

[Beechwood Chip]

The safest way is to put the flattest side against the fence. To make repeated cuts it's easiest to set the distance from the fence to the blade to the desired thickness, so you can just keep the fence in one place. If you are cutting a very thin strip, it's safer to have the wider part against the fence. If there's a very thin strip between the blade and the fence, then it's hard to use blade guards, and to keep the stock firmly against the fence. If you are cutting many thin strips, then you can either set a stop and move the fence for each cut (Charles Neal recommends this) or use a GRRR-Ripper (Marc recommends this) (if I recall correctly, in both cases). If you don't want to buy a GRRR-Ripper, you can make a sacrificial push block.

Always support the long side of the work-piece. Use the rip fence or the miter gauge/sled depending on orientation - not both. The off cut must be able to fall away from the blade, so whichever side you are supporting (either against the fence or with the miter gauge), leave the other side "loose".

In some cases you could end up using the "rip fence" to cut across the grain, or the miter gauge to cut with the grain. It has to do with supporting the longest dimension, to avoid having the piece pivot.

I think I probably answered about eight questions that you didn't ask, but I'd rather bore someone with safety info they know, than have someone get hurt because I kept my mouth shut. I've made that mistake too many times.

Besides, this way if I've said something wrong, someone with more experience can correct me, which will keep me safe!

[Dan S]

When ripping boards, do I place the finished side towards the fence or do I let the finish side float and place the original board being cut against the fence?

by finished do you mean a jointed edge?

[Derekkest]

by finished do you mean a jointed edge?

I mean the piece that will be to the width I want. In other words, my board is 14" across, I am gonna be ripping 1.5" lengths from this.

[Dan S]

I mean the piece that will be to the width I want. In other words, my board is 14" across, I am gonna be ripping 1.5" lengths from this.

assuming you mean its going to be 1.5" wide, and say something like 12+" long, I would put the finished board against the fence, and use a push stick.

Are you making and end grain cutting board, made from 1.5" squares per chance? If so, I can share a few tips that will make life a little easier.

[Mike Stout]

assuming you mean its going to be 1.5" wide, and say something like 12+" long, I would put the finished board against the fence, and use a push stick.

Are you making and end grain cutting board, made from 1.5" squares per chance? If so, I can share a few tips that will make life a little easier.

I'm going to start making the end grain cutting boards and would appreciate any tips. Thanks Mike

[Derekkest]

assuming you mean its going to be 1.5" wide, and say something like 12+" long, I would put the finished board against the fence, and use a push stick.

Are you making and end grain cutting board, made from 1.5" squares per chance? If so, I can share a few tips that will make life a little easier.

Yup, gonna give the cutting board a try

[singlespeed68]

just remember when using the table saw (or any power tool) if something don't seem safe, rethink another way to

make the same cut. Be sure to post it when your finished.

Just made an edge side cutting board, now looking at making an end grain board.

[Dan S]

I'm going to start making the end grain cutting boards and would appreciate any tips. Thanks Mike

This technique is useful for more than making cutting boards, but that's where I seem to use it the most. Assuming the final thickness(t) and width(w) of a board doesn't differ by more than a factor of ~3 (w/t < ~3 or t/w < ~3), this is what I do. First I rough cut the board to length, usually 1" longer that the final dimensions. Second I rough cut the boards to width, anywhere from 1/32" to 1/8" wider than the final dimensions depending on length. Next I let the boards rest so they can come back into equilibrium. Next, I joint a face and then thickness the board. Finally I joint an edge, and then instead of heading to the TS I head to the planer, and run it through with the jointed edge down. This does a few things, not easily accomplished on the TS (at least by me anyway). First, it yields a better surface finish. Second, it all but guarantees the edge is perfectly parallel to the other. Finally, It allows you to dial in the width with thousand of an inch precision (if it's needed). The last step is the one that really helps with end-grain cutting boards, as it helps to minimize compounding errors.

[Derekkest]

This technique is useful for more than making cutting boards, but that's where I seem to use it the most. Assuming the final thickness(t) and width(w) of a board doesn't differ by more than a factor of ~3 (w/t < ~3 or t/w < ~3), this is what I do. First I rough cut the board to length, usually 1" longer that the final dimensions. Second I rough cut the boards to width, anywhere from 1/32" to 1/8" wider than the final dimensions depending on length. Next I let the boards rest so they can come back into equilibrium. Next, I joint a face and then thickness the board. Finally I joint an edge, and then instead of heading to the TS I head to the planer, and run it through with the jointed edge down. This does a few things, not easily accomplished on the TS (at least by me anyway). First, it yields a better surface finish. Second, it all but guarantees the edge is perfectly parallel to the other. Finally, It allows you to dial in the width with thousand of an inch precision (if it's needed). The last step is the one that really helps with end-grain cutting boards, as it helps to minimize compounding errors.

Dan,

That sounds like a better idea! Actully, as I am not a fan of the TS, I will more then likely just cut them down on the bandsaw and then follow your finishing technique.

[Mike Stout]

This technique is useful for more than making cutting boards, but that's where I seem to use it the most. Assuming the final thickness(t) and width(w) of a board doesn't differ by more than a factor of ~3 (w/t < ~3 or t/w < ~3), this is what I do. First I rough cut the board to length, usually 1" longer that the final dimensions. Second I rough cut the boards to width, anywhere from 1/32" to 1/8" wider than the final dimensions depending on length. Next I let the boards rest so they can come back into equilibrium. Next, I joint a face and then thickness the board. Finally I joint an edge, and then instead of heading to the TS I head to the planer, and run it through with the jointed edge down. This does a few things, not easily accomplished on the TS (at least by me anyway). First, it yields a better surface finish. Second, it all but guarantees the edge is perfectly parallel to the other. Finally, It allows you to dial in the width with thousand of an inch precision (if it's needed). The last step is the one that really helps with end-grain cutting boards, as it helps to minimize compounding errors.

Very good ideas, I do need to use the planer more and this is a great use. Thanks