Dnorris1369 Posted November 1, 2014 Report Share Posted November 1, 2014 Can anyone recommend a good spray gun? I'm looking to start spraying some finishes. I have a large air compressor and just need the gun. I've seen a lot of posts on hvlp systems but not just the guns alone. Thanks guys. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwacker Posted November 1, 2014 Report Share Posted November 1, 2014 Not enough info what is the cfm rating of your compressor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnorris1369 Posted November 1, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 1, 2014 This help?? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
minorhero Posted November 2, 2014 Report Share Posted November 2, 2014 A bit, depends on how much you want to spend. There are different levels of quality with HVLP spray guns. There are cheapy 30 dollar guns that will absolutely apply a nice finish without problems. I also use these to repaint old machines. This purple harbor freight option has a following online as one of the harbor freight "gems" http://www.harborfreight.com/20-oz-high-volume-low-pressure-gravity-feed-spray-gun-69705.html I used this spray gun by grizzly for a few years and it did a fine job for me. http://www.grizzly.com/products/Professional-HVLP-Spray-Gun-1-4mm/H7669 I am currently using this husky one because my grizzly gave up the ghost when I did not clean it properly before putting it away for the winter. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-Gravity-Feed-Composite-HVLP-Spray-Gun-H4850GHVSG/203497641 The husky gun is definitely an improvement over my old grizzly model and is more accurate with less issues of overspray. After that you start getting into systems that don't use your existing compressor but have their own compressor. http://www.amazon.com/Wagner-0518080-Control-Spray-Sprayer/dp/B003PGQI48/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1414894910&sr=1-1&keywords=spray+gun or http://www.amazon.com/Rockler-HVLP-Spray-Gun/dp/B001DT1Z7O/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1414894910&sr=1-2&keywords=spray+gun My advice would be to set a budget and buy what is in your budget. They all work fine and they all take some getting used to. Its easy to want to spray more then you should in the first coat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trip Posted November 2, 2014 Report Share Posted November 2, 2014 ==>Not enough info what is the cfm rating of your compressor. ==>This help?? You've got the CFM to go a couple of diferent routes... What type of seperator, filter stack and dryer do you have? If you say, what's a dryer -- then we need to talk... And, it goes without saying, you don't have an in-line oiler -- right -- just checking... If you need info one seperators/filters/dryers/etc, there are several folks on WTO who can point you in the right direction... BTW, where is your shop -- Phoenix will have very diferent requirements from Seattle... What do you want to shoot? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnorris1369 Posted November 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 2, 2014 Wow triple h You lost me (dryer separator filter stack) no idea. I'm in nc i finish a lot of my projects with arm r seal and also lacquer Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwacker Posted November 2, 2014 Report Share Posted November 2, 2014 You need a filtered and dried drop on your air system to spray properly. Your compressor maxes out at around 10 which is likely exaggerated. So hvlp would be a good fit except you have a light duty compressor so in that case you would move to lvlp so as not to destroy the compressor. If it's its in a heated shop you may need a refer unit IR makes some good starter units if needed, lacquer does not like hot air. Stay away from no name stuff like mentioned above stick with name brand that you can get replacement parts and different cap sets. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trip Posted November 2, 2014 Report Share Posted November 2, 2014 ==>10 which is likely exaggerated That's a good point - I didn't think of that, but completely agree. ==lvlp so as not to destroy the compressor That's the direction i think he needs to go if he wants to use shop air... But without a stack and dryer (since he's in NC), it may cost as much to get his shop air up to snuff as a 4-stage Fuji setup... Here's the question PB -- whould you spend the $1K to up his air or a turbine setup? I suppose it depends on what else he does with shop air... 1369, what else do you do with your shop air? I don't want to get into the weeds unnecessairly, but depending on how you use air, you might want a radiator, seperator and filter stack in your existing setup. Even without a spray requirement, many tools don't like warm/wet air... And a spray setup certainly won't want oil/water particulates, warm high-humidity air... If you want to spray, the a dryer would also be necessary... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwacker Posted November 2, 2014 Report Share Posted November 2, 2014 Finish quality goes like this conventional is top gun, lvmp then hvlp and lvlp coming in last. I'd always prefer air but I don't condone abusing a compressor. I also don't want fall off. Turbines are just fine but you have to be willing to deal with hand work like sanding between coats. Same goes if your using a small compressor and have fall off. For the OP you can try an affordable filter and dryer. BUT if your compressor is old and has oil blow by you may have wasted money the oil will ruin the dryer resin. To many questions to give a direct answer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trip Posted November 2, 2014 Report Share Posted November 2, 2014 ==>HVLP has become so popular for hobby level people Yea, but the units that are 'becoming popular' are 2/3 stage systems that won't lay-down an off-the-gun surface... That’s the issue for the OP – if you’ve already got so/so shop air and $500-$1000 to spend, which technology would give the best bang/buck… A great deal of the decision depends on what else shop air is used for... At the risk of starting a flame-war, you aren’t going to get WB off-the-gun with a $500 HVLP setup -- sorry, but that's just the way it is... If you’ve got decent shop air and $500, then all things being equal, LVLP is the way to go. LVLP offers superior performance to all but high-end HVLP setups (10psi@130CFM and $1700) for less money -- it's a bang/buck proposition. On the down-side, it shares the small fan and so/so atomization of HVLP. On the up-side, there’s less backscatter, overspray, etc. For most applications at a mid-pricce point, LVLP is a better investment than HVLP. If you do a lot of coloring, toning, glazing, etc., then high-end HVLP gets the nod… ==>conventional is top gun, lvmp then hvlp and lvlp coming in last Conventional will lay down a top-flight surface, but the downsides... LVMP -- the only experience I've got is the Binks(RP) setup and yea, it tops both HVLP and LVLP. The LVLP/HVLP positioning is really about the back end... If you've got great shop air -vs- a lower-end turbine, then the nod goes to LVLP. If you spend $2K on an HVLP setup, then HVLP gets the nod... But for second-tier, I'd give the nod to LVLP. Since we both have 1050VR/T7500 setups, it's a bit hard to compare against average LVLP. I think my LVLP (now that I've added $4K for an AirCell tower and 65CFM refrig dryer) gets the nod over my Fuji 4-stage setup. But we're comparing apples to oranges. But it’s good to keep in mind that while HVLP and LVLP are ‘new’ technologies for woodworkers, they’re already obsolete. There’s a steady trend towards higher solids content, and this will kill-off HVLP/LVLP over the next decade or so. Except for coloring, where HVLP may still be the technology of choice… Today’s finishing pros are using CPR/HTE(RP) (or some other RP varient) and/or AAA. To cope with high solids, you need high atomization and a large fan. Some of the RP variants can atomize anything up to, but not including, asphalt (OK, that’s an exaggeration, but you get the idea). You also get a 16” fan with most WB coatings... I don’t personally know any woodshops using one of the RP variants – but that’s going to change quickly… Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodger. Posted November 2, 2014 Report Share Posted November 2, 2014 I am not nearly as knowledgable as the above posters in the spray finish area. I did a lot of reading, but the most helpful info came from Marc in his free review of HVLP systems. I have an inexpensive earlex system, and I enjoy it very much. It gives me good results, and I didn't need to overthink it. I simply put in the recommended needle, pour my pint of finish in the cup, spray on a piece of cardboard to get the fan and flow pattern adjusted, and then go to work. I do, however, sand between coats as the above posters mentioned. I use 400 or 600, vacuum, and then spray again. In the future I will buy a 4 stage Fuji, just because I am growing more experienced and feel like having nicer equipment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnorris1369 Posted November 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 2, 2014 Ok so maybe a hvlp system is the way to go for me. I honestly didn't realize that there was that much involved. I am just a hobbyist that only does a few projects a year. You guys have really gave me a lot of information. (Wood talk online forum= better than google) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trip Posted November 2, 2014 Report Share Posted November 2, 2014 ==>Wood talk online forum= better than google Well, at least we now know what to carve on Marc's headstone... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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