andrew-in-austin Posted November 24, 2014 Report Share Posted November 24, 2014 i have used a couple oil based finishes, and I really don't like the Amber tint that happens. I was wondering if anyone has been able to work around this by adding a dye or stain to a oil/varish to even out the color. I am guessing it would take something like a cyan color to shift the final color more neutral. This will likely further darken the wood but I am fine with that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ponderingturtle Posted November 24, 2014 Report Share Posted November 24, 2014 Water Based finishes instead of oil? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan S Posted November 24, 2014 Report Share Posted November 24, 2014 i have used a couple oil based finishes, and I really don't like the Amber tint that happens. I was wondering if anyone has been able to work around this by adding a dye or stain to a oil/varish to even out the color. I am guessing it would take something like a cyan color to shift the final color more neutral. This will likely further darken the wood but I am fine with that. What oil based finishes have you used? make/type? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrew-in-austin Posted November 25, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 25, 2014 Water based finishes don't seem the have the "depth" that the oil based ones do. I have tried Waterlox and Osmo oilwax. Is there a oil/varish finish with very minimal amber? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan S Posted November 25, 2014 Report Share Posted November 25, 2014 Water based finishes don't seem the have the "depth" that the oil based ones do. I have tried Waterlox and Osmo oilwax. Is there a oil/varish finish with very minimal amber?Yes, You want a Varnish made from Soya oil, and is Alkyd resin based. Pratt &Lambert 38 is something you might want to try. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raefco Posted November 25, 2014 Report Share Posted November 25, 2014 Check into a automotive grade urethane, even the off brands are a little pricy but with the cataliyst they dry quickly crystal clear and hard as a rock. I plan on using it as n my latest walnut cabinet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrew-in-austin Posted November 25, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 25, 2014 Thanks for the suggestions. I also searched and found GF's seal-a-cell clear, which sounds like it might not amber much. This, combined with a water top finish perhaps. I'll definitely look into the Pratt & Lamber 38 and the auto grade urethane. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted November 25, 2014 Report Share Posted November 25, 2014 It's a fine line to walk. I have used water bourne finishes for many years and sometimes add Amber to them to deal with the cool bluish colors they can impart. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bob493 Posted November 25, 2014 Report Share Posted November 25, 2014 Check into a automotive grade urethane, even the off brands are a little pricy but with the cataliyst they dry quickly crystal clear and hard as a rock. I plan on using it as n my latest walnut cabinet. The key obstacle with these is two fold. 1) they require a fine finishing technique. A lot of wood workers are used to using brush on poly or wipe on finishes, and this is an entirely different animal. If you screw up a catalyzed finish, theres no "fixing it" you have to redo all of it. Drop fills and other "fixes" always leave a witness line which, for me, is completely unacceptable. Getting them to spray completely flat with no fine finishing is nigh on impossible. So the added cost of the material (you're talking 80$ for a quart and pint of hardener for the "cheap" stuff, good stuff goes into the hundreds of dollars), added cost of finishing supplies (20$ buffing and finishing pads, 40$ for good finishing compounds, 20-30$ for high grit sandpapers, and a cool bill for a decent buffer). The finish these provide is hands down the best, but takes more effort to get them that way. 2) The toxicity of this paint... its literally liquid cancer, and requires a proper setup to spray without murdering yourself. That said, a big +1. A decent water white 2k finish is impossible to beat unless you're looking for specific type of finish. My suggestion.. would be a spray nitro lacquer. Plenty of decent brands out there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raefco Posted November 25, 2014 Report Share Posted November 25, 2014 The key obstacle with these is two fold. 1) they require a fine finishing technique. A lot of wood workers are used to using brush on poly or wipe on finishes, and this is an entirely different animal. If you screw up a catalyzed finish, theres no "fixing it" you have to redo all of it. Drop fills and other "fixes" always leave a witness line which, for me, is completely unacceptable. Getting them to spray completely flat with no fine finishing is nigh on impossible. So the added cost of the material (you're talking 80$ for a quart and pint of hardener for the "cheap" stuff, good stuff goes into the hundreds of dollars), added cost of finishing supplies (20$ buffing and finishing pads, 40$ for good finishing compounds, 20-30$ for high grit sandpapers, and a cool bill for a decent buffer). The finish these provide is hands down the best, but takes more effort to get them that way. 2) The toxicity of this paint... its literally liquid cancer, and requires a proper setup to spray without murdering yourself. That said, a big +1. A decent water white 2k finish is impossible to beat unless you're looking for specific type of finish. My suggestion.. would be a spray nitro lacquer. Plenty of decent brands out there. yes, what you said, this is my dads body shop and a project I completed for him when he was down sick, it is a pain, it is expensive, it cannot to be beat if you looking for the best you can get. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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