Setting up my first router table

[cabinfever]

I've only used a router a few times in my life, and never in a table. So I don't know if I'd be fine with a router plate vs a lift, etc.

I'm planning on building the table into the extension table space of my SawStop, kind of like Paul Marcel's setup with a dust box underneath.

I own a Porter Cable 690LR with a fixed base. This has been used a few times about 10 years ago. I also own a Freud FT2000E which I got after my grandfather passed. Still in the box, doesn't seem used.

Is the Freud the better option for a table mount because it's bigger (3.25 hp)? I'm trying to set myself up to participate in the February WW guild build.

[dwacker]

I would go with the bigger router. A lift is more of a luxury than a have to have. Do what ever fits in your budget.

[..Kev]

PB is correct.  Make sure that speeds are adjustable on the router you put in your table as well.  You'll want to spin small bits faster than large bits.

 

I have a lift in my table and love it but, it is a luxury.

[dwacker]

You can get a plug in router speed control if your router does not have one. The thing with hand held routers is they loose power when slowed down to accommodate bit diameter, so you want the biggest router possible. 

[cabinfever]

Thanks guys. The Freud does have Electronic Variable Speed.

 

I just made the mistake of watching the Incra LS system demo.... I really need to stay away from YouTube 

[..Kev]

Well, if you have a great deal in your wallet, keep watching!

[Yanis]

I was in your boat a few weeks ago when I came across a second hand table and router for $300 (the wife negotiated them down to $250). It was the Triton TRA001. I bought the Router Raizer.

 

If you want through table adjustment then look at the RZ-100 model which fits the Freud you have. Mine works brilliantly and for around the $100 mark is an excellent option.

[Beechwood Chip]

I thought the Triton router has above table height control built in?

[cabinfever]

I was in your boat a few weeks ago when I came across a second hand table and router for $300 (the wife negotiated them down to $250). It was the Triton TRA001. I bought the Router Raizer.

 

If you want through table adjustment then look at the RZ-100 model which fits the Freud you have. Mine works brilliantly and for around the $100 mark is an excellent option.

 

I had considered that too, I noticed the compatibility with the Freud.

 

Well it wasn't really the plan, but I've always been fascinated with the Woodrat... I picked up a WR-5 on ebay for just over $200. I'll need to get a plunge bar for my Freud, but I've always been fascinated with the system, and look forward to trying it out.

 

I don't know if I'll add a router table in the future, we'll see what I can and can't do with the system.

[Cochese]

I thought the Triton router has above table height control built in?

 

It does. I'm not sure what the reasoning would be to add to it, it works fine.

[BuilderBill]

I've only used a router a few times in my life, and never in a table. So I don't know if I'd be fine with a router plate vs a lift, etc.

I'm planning on building the table into the extension table space of my SawStop, kind of like Paul Marcel's setup with a dust box underneath.

I own a Porter Cable 690LR with a fixed base. This has been used a few times about 10 years ago. I also own a Freud FT2000E which I got after my grandfather passed. Still in the box, doesn't seem used.

Is the Freud the better option for a table mount because it's bigger (3.25 hp)? I'm trying to set myself up to participate in the February WW guild build.

 

I guess it depends on what you want to do with the table. If you want something that will take panel-raising or 1-3/4" cope-and-stick bits for exterior doors you might as well go ahead and buy a shaper and save the time and grief. If you want to do normal joinery cuts with the usual range of hand-held router bits your 690 should be fine in a basic table. See Pat Warner's take on the router table(and spend some time wandering around his site while you're there. The guy knows his stuff).

 

It doesn't take all that much to make a good router table: a flat surface and a straight fence with a notch cut out for the bit . MDF comes as flat as it gets, a 2'x4' piece at the home center costs you a few bucks. If you have a jointer(or can get access to one) a short piece of maple or QSWO makes a durable fence. Get a few extra pieces and have them jointed at the same time so they're straight, use them as a frame and a couple to reinforce the MDF either side of the router base. Drill a hole in the MDF where you want the bit to come out, bolt the base of the 690 to it and screw it down to the frame, voila, you have a router table.

 

A clamp on each end of the fence and you're done. Set it on top of a WorkMate or clamp it to your bench and go to work. And if you've done your jointing right, your table and fence are probably better than 90% of those on the market. Flatness of the table and straightness of the fence are the most important features of a router table, the rest is convenience but if convenience compromises the flat and straight part you're at a net loss.

 

KISS principle in spades, the more you add the more you complicate and compromise. And the more you spend.

 

HTH,

Bill

[Vader]

I'm really new to the router but have just mounted the Triton M0F001 in a kreg table. My confusion is installing the collet. The collet continues to turn on the spindle. I'm not sure how the spindle should lock so I can tighten down the collet. If I've made myself clear, I'm up for any suggestions.  Thanks.

[ResidentEvil]

Should have a spindle lock mechanism.  The cover over the power switch has to be closed, and you probably have to raise the router to its highest position (speaking as if it is mounted in a table); where the collet extends past the base as far as possible.

 

Then the collet should lock and you can do a one wrench bit change.