N00b-in-training Posted January 25, 2015 Report Share Posted January 25, 2015 I'm finalizing the design on our new walnut dining room table. The design is based on a couple of Stickley tables I've seen, from what I've seen the typically don't have breadboard ends. I'd really like to build it without breadboard ends but I'm a little concerned about wood movement. On top of that, given the size of my shop I'll have a hard time trying to maneuver 8'+ boards to cut tenons for the breadboard. The total table top is 9' x 4' and the base is 6' x 3'. My question is the base long enough to provide enough support to prevent the top from moving too much? Anything else I should be concerned about? Thanks! -jason Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted January 25, 2015 Report Share Posted January 25, 2015 How thick is your top? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N00b-in-training Posted January 25, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 25, 2015 5/4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woodbutcher74 Posted January 25, 2015 Report Share Posted January 25, 2015 If I understand your question I would say the length of the base shouldn't effect the movement of the top as wood moves across the grain. If you're asking is 6' long enough to support a 9' top, I would say it depends on how thick the top is. If it's the standard 3/4", probably not. IMO Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted January 25, 2015 Report Share Posted January 25, 2015 So you want to have a 1" or less thick top 4 ft wide hanging 18" past the base? You might make it work with an 8/4 top. I afraid 5/4 is going to sag from just the length unsupported . You could attach a batten across the bottom to keep it flat. Use slots for the screws to allow for wood movement . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N00b-in-training Posted January 25, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 25, 2015 So you want to have a 1" or less thick top 4 ft wide hanging 18" past the base? You might make it work with an 8/4 top. I afraid 5/4 is going to sag from just the length unsupported . You could attach a batten across the bottom to keep it flat. Use slots for the screws to allow for wood movement . Thanks. What's the minimum suggested clearance on the end of a table? If I lengthen the base to 7' and only have 12" hanging will that be enough support? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichardA Posted January 25, 2015 Report Share Posted January 25, 2015 Wood moves across the grain... not along the length that you'd notice! Overhang in both directions seem a little to much for a 5/4 top! I'd go with a 6" overhang on the cross grain or 4' side, and a 12" overhang on the length ends. And a breadboard is not "needed" ! It won't stop any wood movement, it merely covers up the movement on the ends of the boards... If your wood is acclimated to your space, and you finish "every" side of your top, movement should be minimized. Allowing humidity access to any part of your top, increases the chance for movement. Allow room for that movement as Steve suggested using slots for your screws. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted January 25, 2015 Report Share Posted January 25, 2015 A breadboard or batten underneath main purpose is to help keep the top flat. A 12" overhang should be ok with a 5/4 batten about 1 1/2 to 2" in from the end. Maybe 4 to 6" overhang on the sides. I have seen extension tables that had 18" overhangs at the end , but they had support braces that pulled out to support it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N00b-in-training Posted January 25, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 25, 2015 Thanks guys. One last thing. The boards for the top are 10" wide. If that make a difference. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted January 25, 2015 Report Share Posted January 25, 2015 How flat are they now? A 10" board can cup or twist a good bit in 9 ft. If the cup or twist is large you can rip the piece in half, flatten it then glue it back together. Getting 9 ft glue joints takes some skill, make practice joints if at all possible. I practice using poplar. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric. Posted January 25, 2015 Report Share Posted January 25, 2015 I'd use 8/4. I think 5/4 for a table that huge would be too light visually, especially on a Stickley design that typically has fairly robust elements. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N00b-in-training Posted January 25, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 25, 2015 How flat are they now? A 10" board can cup or twist a good bit in 9 ft. If the cup or twist is large you can rip the piece in half, flatten it then glue it back together. Getting 9 ft glue joints takes some skill, make practice joints if at all possible. I practice using poplar. I haven't purchased the boards yet, waiting until the design is finalized. Great point on practicing with Poplar! I've done some 6' glue ups but not 9'. As far as attaching the top, I'd like to be able to easily detach the top due to the size and weight of the top. I'm sure it'll be difficult to move. Any thoughts on using something like threaded inserts or something like them that would allow for some movement? Thanks. -jason Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted January 25, 2015 Report Share Posted January 25, 2015 If you haven't purchased the boards use 8/4 ! Z clips or furniture buttons should work to attach the top. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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