dwacker

Well unfortunately I knew this day was coming but the time is here I must sign off. The last few years have been fun and I appreciate everyone being so welcoming. I don't want this thread turning into a sad event, so I do ask that one of the moderators lock this thread. Until we meet again, keep up the good work and BUY A DAMN SHAPER. Thank you.

Yes. This is a roller table. A roller was generally a woman that sat and worked at these tables. The table was invented after wide spread legalization of marijuana. The roller would sit at these table before each congressional session and roll what were called joints made from the marijuana and 100 bills. These joints were smoked by members of congress during each session. Later the rollers were replaced by machines that could produce larger quantities of these congressional joints. The roller table was a prized collectable of serious pot heads. Its valued at........(commercial break)..........$5000

Just whack each jaw with a punch it should knock it loose. Hit them as if you were knocking then back into the chuck.

It is pretty, the last few lines of your write up made my day.

I don't see it as a problem more impractical. You can go out today and buy a 91degree router bit and perform the same operation on the router table. Add the complication of the stickley type joint which only helps with slippage it causes complications with variations in plywood thickness. I know stickley has a boat load of patents but somehow Im doubting that one has been renewed, only a guess because the shaper knife pattern has been available for years.

I guess the first thing that jumps out at me is that its stickleys joint with a onion skin fold.

Its called a miter fold furniture companies have been doing similar for years. Its very common in euro furniture shops. His joint is a combination of a rabbet and a miter fold.

Your probably better off finding someone with a laser. Look up online someone that does wood laser engraving.

Grain direction doesn't change. Only thing that changes is what face goes against the jointer fence. For example your making a work bench with 3"x 3" x 48" boards glued together. Your layout is predetermined by you prior to jointing. All the glue joints should get alternating jointed edges done on the jointer. The top and bottom would then get the planed edges. Don't mix and match planed and jointed edges.

Has nothing to do with grain. How you set up your panel lay out is entirely up to you. When you joint the boards one bottom goes against the jointer fence then one top then one bottom then one top and so on. My guess is most of the time when folks get a cupped panel after removing from clamps its not a cupped panel at all. 2 90 degree angles obviously nets a flat glue up. On the other hand two 89.75 degree angles nets what would resemble a cupped panel the more boards you have in the glue up the worse it will be.

There are some things in life that should require a special test and license. Using power tools, making children and marriage are just a few.

If I had to do everything with hand tools and could only have one machine it would be a bandsaw.

Gunna be easier to feed conduit to a sub panel and probably look better than trying to feed into the finished main. You will only need one connection to the main for the sub and will look better if the main is already wrapped in drywall.

Wood conditioner if used properly does not create a film so you should be just fine. I use GF WB clear stain base as a "conditioner" before staining and topping with Arm r seal on a regular basis with no ill affect.

Since it is going to be painted I would just cut out the affected area with a forsner bit and glue in a dowel. Flush cut and sand, seal the end grain of the dowel with a little extra paint and be done.