Hall table design.

[Jeremy Morgan]

Now the title here is a bit misleading.  This table will actually function as a side table for a couch, but the design I am going for has more in common with hall tables.  The couch is pretty close to a corner so there is limited room to work with, about 13".  I have a nice 12+ in wide Mahogany board which i plan to use for the top.  Curly maple is what I have in mind for the base. Here is the current version of the design with a sketches of possible alterations.

Bread-board ends on the top, cloud lift on the aprons and table supports/stretchers.  If I go in this direction it might end up with some Ebony splines.

 

Side profile, this side wouldn't really be too visible in its intended location, but I don't expect the piece to be there forever.  I am thinking 5/4  for the legs?  just a bit thicker than the aprons.  

 

 

Here is a sketch of an alternate design without the breadboard ends, just some sort of upside down bevel on at least the ends of the top.  I think this could look nice with some sort of stringing/inlay on the top....might be a good reason to buy a trim router, hmm.

 

I am debating on whether to have lower stretchers and a shelf.  I think this might not work too well with the current leg design, but would make the table more sturdy and provide a place to store things....or just accumulate crap.

 

I'd love to hear all your opinions...good, bad or otherwise. When I have some time I'll try and get a few of the alterations modeled.

 

Thanks in advance.

[chicks82]

I would love to see the sketch without bread board ends and the bottom shelf. That I think if done with contrasting woods and some metal accents would be sexy!

[pghmyn]

I'm another voter for the sketch without the breadboard ends. The bottom shelf would add too much, in my opinion. It really looks elegant with the long tapering legs and the floating top.

[Jeremy Morgan]

Here are few more renderings. 

With a chamfered top.  I also increased the thickness of the top of the leg a bit to provide a bit more distinction between the leg and the apron.

This one drops the cloud lifts which seem a bit out of place and uses simple, shallow curves which mimic the gentle curves on the legs.  I added a cutout to the middle stretchers to lighten them up visually, not sure how I feel about that.

Here is an end view.  the legs are tapered on the inside so that the "feet" are 3/4 in square.  I like how the inside curve almost makes the table appear to have splayed legs.

[Dan S]

I like the 2nd and 3rd images, The only critique I have would be to consider some round overs on the aprons and legs. The curves of the aprons don't really look right to me with the hard edges of the legs.

[chicks82]

I like the 2nd and 3rd images, The only critique I have would be to consider some round overs on the aprons and legs. The curves of the aprons don't really look right to me with the hard edges of the legs.

 

I agree! The edges need to be broken up some how.

[Jeremy Morgan]

Is this what you were thinking?  I also reduced the width of the legs and apron just a hair.  I like the delicate look and think I want to play that up a bit.  As this table will only be ~30 or less long I think it will be more than sturdy enough.  I was even considering making the aprons a bit thinner than 3/4 so I could get the same look with a 1" thick leg. That might be pushing it a bit though.

 

Thinking about possible joinery, I would like to avoid using through tenons for the stretchers, what do you guys think about a stopped sliding dovetail? Maybe have a dado the full height of the apron with a dovetail at the top edge?

 

[pghmyn]

I really like the idea of that stopped sliding dovetail joint. I think it would be the strongest option, too.

[Dan S]

Is this what you were thinking?

I was referring to the long edges of the legs need a round over. maybe 1/8" or 3/16" on all 4 edges. it's hard to say exactly how it would look but it might help.

Thinking about possible joinery, I would like to avoid using through tenons for the stretchers, what do you guys think about a stopped sliding dovetail? Maybe have a dado the full height of the apron with a dovetail at the top edge?

I'd go with the stooped sliding dovetail coming up from the bottom.

[Jeremy Morgan]

I'll have to play around with that and see what looks right.  

 

RE: sliding dovetails.  I would think I would want the dovetail at the top of the joint as the force from the tabletop load would be going down. 

[Dan S]

RE: sliding dovetails.  I would think I would want the dovetail at the top of the joint as the force from the tabletop load would be going down.

The force isn't going to be that great, unless your going to sit on it regularly.

[Jeremy Morgan]

1/8" round over on both sides of the legs as well as the outside of the aprons and the stretchers....I also softened the edges on the top.  I turned off the hard black lines in the rendering which helps too.

[Jeremy Morgan]

that's true.  there will probably be other reasons not to sit on a table with spindly little legs. Just curious what your reasoning would be for having the dovetail on the bottom, better to resisting racking forces?

[pghmyn]

that's true. there will probably be other reasons not to sit on a table with spindly little legs. Just curious what your reasoning would be for having the dovetail on the bottom, better to resisting racking forces?

I think seeing the dovetail would be a nice feature.

[Dan S]

that's true.  there will probably be other reasons not to sit on a table with spindly little legs. Just curious what your reasoning would be for having the dovetail on the bottom, better to resisting racking forces?

I'd do it to hide joinery, If I was going to use curly maple like your thinking, I'd want the wood to be the center of attention. Thus I'd design the piece to hide the joinery, and to prevent two boards from coming to together to form an edge.

like in this photo, I would round over both top edges of the front and back aprons, and then lower top of the ends and round them over as well, to try and avoid any hard joints.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-lp1rOhhtiW0/UZZ6VzvWdOI/AAAAAAAADOI/hJFvaMiAL2M/w1073-h829-no/Hall+table+chamfered+top+detail.JPG

[Byrdie]

I really like the look of it.  The only comment I could make, and I stress this is to *my eye, I think for as long as the legs appear to be they seem a bit thin.  They don't need to be beefy but perhaps just a little more thickness to them.