"Thee" Project

[went_postal]

Figured since I keep asking various questions I should show you what is what.

Wife wanted/wants a cabinet in the laundry room that has a weird ceiling due to being under the stairs. Mock up in sketchup with actual dimensions and in place:

Starts out as this:

Moves onto this:

Face Frame is held together with pocket screws. The original plan was to attach it to the case using biscuits but that didn't pan out and it I wound up using the pocket screws. You can see that the frame is overlapping the edge... that is part of the out of square issue that I have been discussing. It flush at the bottom but out at the top.

Pre- dadoes:

No panels:

[went_postal]

Checking the fit to the opening. Not horrible. I will have 1/16 around the door.

Dry Fit:

Dry Fit in opening:

The whole thing:

Starting to add color. I always stain my panels before glue up:

[Bobby Slack]

That is really nice work you did. Nice inset face frame and square stick doors. That looks great.

Checking the fit to the opening. Not horrible. I will have 1/16 around the door.

Dry Fit:

Dry Fit in opening:

The whole thing:

Starting to add color. I always stain my panels before glue up:

[Ben H]

Curious, how do you plan to fill the "wedge" between the cabinet and stairs? or do you? Or am I just being an idiot and don't understand?

[went_postal]

Curious, how do you plan to fill the "wedge" between the cabinet and stairs? or do you? Or am I just being an idiot and don't understand?

You talking about the right side of the cabinet? Yeah.... I haven't figured that all out yet. =)

Right now my big hurdle is that I REALLY don't like how the stain is going on the poplar. =( No Seal Coat... blotchy. With Seal Coat... too pale. And I am kind of already committed as I stained the panels without testing the poplar first. =(

Actually... I take that back. I DID test the stain on poplar before... On a different batch of wood that I have had in the shop for a couple of years. Um... Oops.

[iSawitFirst]

Painted cabinets aren't so bad. I'm sure you "planned" it that way, huh.

Looks great!

[Bobby Slack]

I've used poplar before as paint grade not for staining. There are some who like the look of stained poplar.

[went_postal]

I've used poplar before as paint grade not for staining. There are some who like the look of stained poplar.

This is stained poplar:

But I used Gel Stain on that one.

[Bobby Slack]

Nice. I think somewhere it was published that some of the shakers work was done on Poplar.

My accessible price wood of choice now is Alder because you can stain it like cherry, make it look rustic and old farm/world and apply an espresso or walnut look and go dark.

I will post my poplar drawer fronts but they are all have a glaze finish. I also used poplar for all the crown and base molding at my home.

This is stained poplar:

But I used Gel Stain on that one.

[went_postal]

Nice. I think somewhere it was published that some of the shakers work was done on Poplar.

My accessible price wood of choice now is Alder because you can stain it like cherry, make it look rustic and old farm/world and apply an espresso or walnut look and go dark.

I will post my poplar drawer fronts but they are all have a glaze finish. I also used poplar for all the crown and base molding at my home.

poplar is cheap and plentiful here. Alder is roughtly $4.54/BF whereas Poplar is $2.05/BF. Heck... Maple is cheaper than Alder here.

[PaulMarcel]

poplar is cheap and plentiful here. Alder is roughtly $4.54/BF whereas Poplar is $2.05/BF. Heck... Maple is cheaper than Alder here.

The irony in that is that Alder was (still?) used as a sacrificial tree felled before the real tree to break its fall. Then someone noticed it was actually pretty nice.

[Dave F]

As someone metioned above, if you're going to stain Poplar, use a gel stain. I've found that using a gel really reduces the blotchyness..

[Bobby Slack]

I tried replying both ... anyway ... Alder cheaper than maple is amazing. Got to tell you, I don't know why I am not crazy about maple. Alder here is about $ 4.00 a BF. I really never compared with anything, I bought it because of the look, the knots.

If I would make something really nice I would probably go for the Mahogany or varieties close to it like Sapele, etc. This is another topic.

The irony in that is that Alder was (still?) used as a sacrificial tree felled before the real tree to break its fall. Then someone noticed it was actually pretty nice.

[went_postal]

I tried replying both ... anyway ... Alder cheaper than maple is amazing. Got to tell you, I don't know why I am not crazy about maple. Alder here is about $ 4.00 a BF. I really never compared with anything, I bought it because of the look, the knots.

If I would make something really nice I would probably go for the Mahogany or varieties close to it like Sapele, etc. This is another topic.

I like using poplar because it mills up really nice and usually stains well. I'm sure I'll figure something out. =)

[Onboard]

I like using poplar because it mills up really nice and usually stains well. I'm sure I'll figure something out. =)

Charles Neil sells a Pre-Color Conditioner - Blotch Control that should work with your Poplar. There’s also an article in the current American Woodworker magazine, Oct/Nov 2010, on the finishing aspects of poplar, called “Make Poplar Look Pretty”. FYI

[went_postal]

Charles Neil sells a Pre-Color Conditioner - Blotch Control that should work with your Poplar. There’s also an article in the current American Woodworker magazine, Oct/Nov 2010, on the finishing aspects of poplar, called “Make Poplar Look Pretty”. FYI

Yeah... I saw that someone had posted a video of him doing his spiel the other day.

Dunno... May swing by woodcraft later today and see what they have on their shelves.

The Seal Coat stops the blotching... but it also seems to stop the absorption of ANY of the stain... at least in relation to the birch plywood. The birch took the stain and looks GREAT... now I just need the poplar to do the same.

[dryhter]

Yeah... I saw that someone had posted a video of him doing his spiel the other day.

Dunno... May swing by woodcraft later today and see what they have on their shelves.

The Seal Coat stops the blotching... but it also seems to stop the absorption of ANY of the stain... at least in relation to the birch plywood. The birch took the stain and looks GREAT... now I just need the poplar to do the same.

That 's always been the problem with mixing sheet goods and solid wood, usually you can never get the ply dark enough to match the solid, the veneer is so thin there is no wood to suck up any stain.

Did you thin the seal coat, you really just want to apply a coat of alcohol with some shellac in it.

Dave

[went_postal]

That 's always been the problem with mixing sheet goods and solid wood, usually you can never get the ply dark enough to match the solid, the veneer is so thin there is no wood to suck up any stain.

Did you thin the seal coat, you really just want to apply a coat of alcohol with some shellac in it.

Dave

There is a thread over in finishing about this, but...

I did a test tonight with 1:1, 3:2, 2:1(4:2), and 5:2. The larger number being the DNA. The 2:1 and 5:2 look the best IMHO. So looks like you were right. DNA with a splash of seal coat seems to have the best results.

[dryhter]

Postal

I use to save the DNA that I used for cleaning my brushes and that would be be the "spit" coat for the next project, DNA started to go up in price so I started to use ammonia to clean my brushes, believe it or not ammonia cleans the brushes better than the alcohol ever did, give it a try and you will be surprised too.

Dave

PS. Throw some sawdust or shavings around next time you take pictures, your shop is way to clean;>0

[went_postal]

Postal

I use to save the DNA that I used for cleaning my brushes and that would be be the "spit" coat for the next project, DNA started to go up in price so I started to use ammonia to clean my brushes, believe it or not ammonia cleans the brushes better than the alcohol ever did, give it a try and you will be surprised too.

Dave

PS. Throw some sawdust or shavings around next time you take pictures, your shop is way to clean;>0

LOL... The "cleanliness" of my shop is the topic for another thread. =)

I am working in such a confined space that I find i have to clean while I work and not just at the end of the day. =) I also have two motorcycles in the garage that I prefer not to have a 1/4" of sawdust on. =)

Oddly enough... my recent purchase of the Dust Deputy DIY kit has turned out to be a great investment. I don't have an DC in my garage and the dusty deputy has been AWESOME. I still get SOME dust but nothing like I did in the past.

[Dave]

I also have two motorcycles in the garage that I prefer not to have a 1/4" of sawdust on. =)

What kind of bikes? Luckily my garage is split into the garage and shop by a block wall. Dust still seems to travel and land on the bikes. Now that it's starting to get colder out and nasty weather near i'm planning my winter projects. I don't get much shop time in the summer, wife and i like to get out on the bikes.

[went_postal]

What kind of bikes? Luckily my garage is split into the garage and shop by a block wall. Dust still seems to travel and land on the bikes. Now that it's starting to get colder out and nasty weather near i'm planning my winter projects. I don't get much shop time in the summer, wife and i like to get out on the bikes.

I have an '06 FLSTFI (Harley Fatboy) and an '10 FLHX (Harley Street Glide). We have some old sheets that are made out of T-Shirt material that I cover the bikes up with while working in the shop. It has successfully kept the dust on the bikes down to a minimum.

I also have an '85 Fiero that is normally parked in the garage that gets COVERED in sawdust and it is a PAIN to clean up later. Right now since I am building with 4x8 sheets of plywood a friend let me park the car in his garage while I make this mess.

We have priced out building a 26x26 shop in the back... it is not tooooooo bad... I just need to stop messing around and pull the trigger on it.

[Dave]

I have an '06 FLSTFI (Harley Fatboy) and an '10 FLHX (Harley Street Glide). We have some old sheets that are made out of T-Shirt material that I cover the bikes up with while working in the shop. It has successfully kept the dust on the bikes down to a minimum.

I also have an '85 Fiero that is normally parked in the garage that gets COVERED in sawdust and it is a PAIN to clean up later. Right now since I am building with 4x8 sheets of plywood a friend let me park the car in his garage while I make this mess.

We have priced out building a 26x26 shop in the back... it is not tooooooo bad... I just need to stop messing around and pull the trigger on it.

I have a 10 Ultra Classic, a few dirt bikes and my wife's Vespa knockoff scooter.

26x26 shop would be nice. when i lived outside of town (before wife) I had a 24x24 pole barn. I wish I had that space back.

[went_postal]

YAY!!! Construction is done.

[went_postal]