how to make wood dimensional with no planer/jointer


dstring20

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I assume that the wood came with two flat and parallel faces, and you now need to create two flat and parallel edges that are square to the faces.

You can do it on the table saw with a table saw sled like this. The sled will make one straight edge square to the face, and then the table saw without the sled will make the other edge straight and parallel to the first.

Other methods to make one straight edge that is square to the face are a router or circular saw with a straightedge clamped as a guide, and of course there are hand-tool solutions as well.

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either using a taper sled, or you could also build a 2 part auxiliary fence to your TS much like a jointer bed, where the back of the fence is inline with the blades teeth, and the front of the fence is recessed so as you pass the wood through the blade, it'll joint it and then the board will ride parallel to the back of the fence. woodsmith had this featured in one of their latest podcasts on iTunes, you can check it out there.

obviously - once you have 1 side jointed, you just use your TS fence and rip the other side to width. no special jigs required here.

It's also never too late to start using handplanes ;) much safer, cleaner cuts, more precise cuts, and less mess (no dust)

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I built one of these in the last couple of weeks. Mine is a piece of 1/2 mdf with a bunch holes drilled in it and a couple of hold down clamps that I can move around the mdf to orient the piece. The MDF rides along the fence of the TS, and the hold downs keep the board being cut in place. I actually am very happy with the way it works. I don't have a picture of it here at work, but if you are interested I can post it later.

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I assume that the wood came with two flat and parallel faces, and you now need to create two flat and parallel edges that are square to the faces.

You can do it on the table saw with a table saw sled like this. The sled will make one straight edge square to the face, and then the table saw without the sled will make the other edge straight and parallel to the first.

Other methods to make one straight edge that is square to the face are a router or circular saw with a straightedge clamped as a guide, and of course there are hand-tool solutions as well.

I have been reading this and I too need help with this. My problem is similar except I did not have a lumber yard plane my boards. I only have a table saw and router (without cabinet base) and no other planing devises. I bought my lumber at the local Lowes and tried to pick out the best pieces (I thought they were). I am building shelves for a bookcase out of plywood and am making a tongue in groove face out of maple. I need a perfectly square piec of stock because I tried just using what I had thinking the a little warpage would be straightened when put onto the tongue of the shelf. First, cutting a groove in the center was not easy so I figured any extra wood raised could be sanded down to meet the plywood surface. This has become an impossible or very time consuming task which should have been an easy afternoon of cutting, installing, gluing, and clamping. So far I have wasted time and may even ruined not only the face peice of stock but the whole shelf. First, how do you get squared parallel faces on this type of lumber (example 1"X1"X4' long? Second, since I am really new at this, is there a workshop that teaches hands on woodworking near me or any where? I live just outside of Syracuse, New York (Upstate New York, not that big city "The Big Apple". I should have taken shop in high school but I did not and many years later I want to learn basics of woodworking.

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want to build a project but only have a table saw . I have lumber with 2 sides planed from the store , so i need to make the sides even . Is there a way to do this with out a planer or jointer.thx everyone

Piece of cake with a long hand plane. You want something in the 22-24" range. Look for a transitional if money is tight. You can get them for less than $20. Plane the center of the edge to a hollow by just planing the middle. Then lengthen the plane strokes gradually until you have an edge with a long, shallow hollow. Once the edge is hollow, plane a few strokes end to end to make the edge straight. If it needs to be square to the face (and it really doesn't unless you plan to cut some kind of joinery on the edge) check it and adjust as necessary. Once you have one edge straight, rip to width on your TS. It took me longer to write this than it takes to do it ;).

Here's a video of the whole process of taking rough lumber to flat and square with nothing more than two cheap hand planes. Since your board's faces are already planed, you just need to straighten the edge. FFWD to the last 10 minutes or so to see the part on planing the edges if you don't want to watch the entire podcast.

Podcast Episode #27: Flat & Square

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Thanks for these podcast videos. I will have to check these out. Does anyone know where the are workshops that give hands on schooling and a place where someone with limited finances and room can work on projects? I know there are some in Connecticut but that is a long distance for demos.

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Thanks for these podcast videos. I will have to check these out. Does anyone know where the are workshops that give hands on schooling and a place where someone with limited finances and room can work on projects? I know there are some in Connecticut but that is a long distance for demos.

local community colleges sometimes have these courses available. might want to take a local guy out for coffee and see if let you follow him around on a fri or sat.

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also checkout the latest "furnitology productions" vodcast re: milling wood. This may be just what you are looking for.

I will definately check these out; probably this weekend. Right now I just have so much stuff going on with work, kids, and finishing my degree by December. If I am able to borrow my grandfathers planes, I know how to plane the edge of the boards but the flat/wide face (1X4; the 4" part by say 6')is what I am having trouble understanding on getting it nice and square. If I use a hand plane for the edge (the 1" faces)can I do the same for the wider face? I would image the boards cannot have to much deflection/warpage along the wide face or they would not be any good. I need to watch these podcasts or vodcasts and hope they shed some light. I know Woodcrafter Inc. in many locations have small classes but some of the prices are not cheap especially if I have to travel and get a hotel room for the weekend. I should be able to watch these through the computer right?

I attached a file to help demonstrate what I am talking about.

Scooter

post-2096-007017000 1287698291_thumb.jpg

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Here's what I'd do:

  1. Use double sided tape to tape a straight-edge to one of the unfinished edges, so it overhangs the ragged edge.
  2. Put that edge against the rip fence of your saw and rip the other edge straight. Walla - one straight edge.
  3. Remove the straight-edge and double stick tape, put the new edge against the fence and cut the other edge. Walla, two straight and parallel edges.
If you want a smoother edge, get out your hand planes.
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Here's what I'd do:

  1. Use double sided tape to tape a straight-edge to one of the unfinished edges, so it overhangs the ragged edge.
  2. Put that edge against the rip fence of your saw and rip the other edge straight. Walla - one straight edge.
  3. Remove the straight-edge and double stick tape, put the new edge against the fence and cut the other edge. Walla, two straight and parallel edges.
If you want a smoother edge, get out your hand planes.

This might sound like my elevator does not go to the top but I am not sure how this would get me a straight edge along the wide part of a board. Especially if I was doing a shelf and the board is 11" wide. Thanks for the suggestion. If you have a sketch of what you are describing I might understand better.

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I assume that the wood came with two flat and parallel faces, and you now need to create two flat and parallel edges that are square to the faces.

You can do it on the table saw with a table saw sled like this. The sled will make one straight edge square to the face, and then the table saw without the sled will make the other edge straight and parallel to the first.

Other methods to make one straight edge that is square to the face are a router or circular saw with a straightedge clamped as a guide, and of course there are hand-tool solutions as well.

I like the sled you post here but what about the top and bottom faces (the wide face part)? If you flip it so the wide section is vertical the saw blade will not be able to rip the whole width.

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