ChetlovesMer Posted January 6, 2014 Report Share Posted January 6, 2014 I ended up winning a 22" that looks great for $10.00 USD. The blade looks nice and thick and it looks to have the matching cap iron. I only worry about the cheeks being damaged by people "wiggling" the blade out because they are unaware that they need to smack the button. I won't get mine for 4-5 days. Shipping via a slow boat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tpt life Posted January 6, 2014 Report Share Posted January 6, 2014 Arrived. Some cleverly concealed damage. It will take some evaluation how to sort it out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G S Haydon Posted January 6, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 6, 2014 Ok this is good. Chris, don't stress, glue and a screw or two will do you, the handle fell off my try plane, had it fixed in five mins. I should have my video ready on this soon guys. C, you did pick a beast, just go for a flat sole and a sharp blade, forget the rest for now, let's see what it can do :-). Chet, dont worry too much, look forward to the slow boat arriving. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tpt life Posted January 7, 2014 Report Share Posted January 7, 2014 It Jacks just fine. I'll have to figure out how to reduce the cross grain toe end throat patch before I figure out if I can use this beast as a try/jointer. I am not fully resolved on mating chip breakers to irons and so this is one more rehab that I am getting some shavings between the two. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tpt life Posted January 11, 2014 Report Share Posted January 11, 2014 Thoughts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G S Haydon Posted January 11, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 11, 2014 Hey C, thanks for the Vid. You appear to have a log with a blade in it :-). Loose handle - Clean out the dust and fith, apply gorilla glue/polyurethane adhesive and screw in place. Mouth Infill - Quite common to re mouth a wooden plane so not totally unexpected. Again, I would clean off any loose filth and see if this would stick back in with some clamps expoy or gorilla glue. Blade - At this time avoid grinding the rounded top, it's not hurting. On mating the cap iron to the blade I will post a tip within a vid I'm off to do, will be live in four hours or so. Sole - Scoring, and grooves are no problem, flat enough is what we are going for, will include this in the video. Fingers crossed we can get Noah's plane working :-). 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tpt life Posted January 11, 2014 Report Share Posted January 11, 2014 So a mouth infill does not need to approximate the wear strength or endurance of the "log" and need not have the grain oriented in the same direction? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G S Haydon Posted January 11, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 11, 2014 C, mouth infills were to the best of my knowledge arranged as yours, often an alternative species, boxwood on a nice example, whatever was hanging about on on the others one would assume. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brooklyngohardwood Posted January 12, 2014 Report Share Posted January 12, 2014 Making some progress. I cleaned out the handle opening today and epoxied it back in. Still need to camber the blade, though! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G S Haydon Posted January 12, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 12, 2014 Guys, 2 x vids done, uploading failed when I was in bed, just doing it again now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G S Haydon Posted January 12, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 12, 2014 Ok, so here we have two very rough videos that were done in a hurry!. Had to use one of the guys benches as my work area is going through some changes. What I learned from these vids, don't pull stupid faces (really freakin odd faces!) when honing :-) Jack Plane http://youtu.be/pVDO--EA2BI Trying Plane http://youtu.be/OvxGWKXgwuo it only works really really nice at 10:00 Let the shave off begin :-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tpt life Posted January 13, 2014 Report Share Posted January 13, 2014 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChetlovesMer Posted January 13, 2014 Report Share Posted January 13, 2014 Carus, It looks like you're having fun. I'm actually somewhat envious. My plane just shipped yesterday. I expect it middle of the week. I'll keep you posted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G S Haydon Posted January 13, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 13, 2014 Looking good C, nicely done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G S Haydon Posted January 13, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 13, 2014 Ok, rules for a plane off, me and my big mouth :-). Open to suggestions but thinking one or some of Try Plane Finest shaving Creating a glue joint edge on two boards and gluing it up. Thickest shaving Jack Plane, Speed thicknessing on a board of a given size Thickest shaving Special award already goes to C for awesome work so far. Just a thought C, if you want to help those checks near the mouth you could also add a screw or two to add some support along with the epoxy. Not super nice to look at but would certianly do a job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tpt life Posted January 14, 2014 Report Share Posted January 14, 2014 Throat repair I split out of firewood and shaped with a hand knife. Glued it in and planed it smooth. The handle is glued and clamped at present. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Byrdie Posted January 14, 2014 Report Share Posted January 14, 2014 Nice job. Good fit. I'd color it just so it doesn't stand out so much (personal preference) and then give the whole bottom a good coat of wax. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G S Haydon Posted January 14, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 14, 2014 Shaffer, I am impressed. How's the blade looking? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tpt life Posted January 14, 2014 Report Share Posted January 14, 2014 I have not made a priority of it yet. The blade is a bit wider than my finer stones and so I pulled a few shavings just with a sloppy secondary bevel off 600-800. I'll likely attack that and the chipbreaker after dinner. Uhh, the chipbreaker lays tight on one side of the iron and rocks so the other side gaps by a mm. I haven't found the spot it is rocking on yet or figured quite how to settle this down. Should be a quick grind when I sort it. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tpt life Posted January 17, 2014 Report Share Posted January 17, 2014 Hey Chet, any arrivals? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tpt life Posted January 29, 2014 Report Share Posted January 29, 2014 I attacked this plane again in my boredom. I replaced the throat patch initially out of some ash I split out of firewood. I decided to try inlaying something harder where a hammer had chewed up the top of the body. I shaped my filler piece with some planing and cut the recess with chisels and a Stanley knife. I used Massaranduba that I have around judging that it will hold up to hammers. (Yes Graham, I also commonly reach for an Estwing.) The old plane top was a bit dry rotted or flaky in spots and that left me with some torn fibers in the curves. I used epoxy and the black shows the poor fit I achieved. I chalk this up to a learning experience. It kept me busy for a day:-) 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G S Haydon Posted January 29, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 29, 2014 Dude, that is the biggest strike button I have ever seen! Kudos :-). Can't wait for those shavings! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brooklyngohardwood Posted February 11, 2014 Report Share Posted February 11, 2014 So I finally got my wood fore plane up and running. I had really bad vertigo for two weeks but now I'm on the mend and getting some more time in the shop. This wasn't a big job, really. The handle was loose so first step I just epoxied it back in. I haven't added a screw for extra insurance yet—figured I'd see how the epoxy does by itself. The sole was pretty out of flat in the front, so much so that it rocked a bit. I'm not sure it would have mattered on a plane intended for rough thickening but I decided to flatten it a bit. Was a piece of cake to run my Veritas LA Jack over it and true up the sole, although I didn't worry about it being perfect. Lastly I sharpened and put a camber on the blade which took the most time. I still haven't gotten a hand grinder up and running (I now own two and have two different sized bushings on order from Amazon—hopefully I can make one work with my 3X grinding wheel) but I broke down and cambered it with P80 sandpaper on glass. I think I'm only down to 10" radius, rather than 8" which is what Chris Schwarz recommends for a fore plane. But it's working OK and I can camber some more once I get a grinder. Blade before: Blade after, with camber: Forgot to take a pic of sole before, here's after: And taking some nice thick shavings!!! Thanks again GS for the push to try these out. I'm still not sure if I'd get a used wooden plan for, say, a smoother, but for a foreplane it's a great option and much cheeper than what #5's seem to be going for now-a-days (I only paid $25 for this incl. shipping). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G S Haydon Posted February 11, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 11, 2014 Sweet! Your poor old US planes seem a bit bruised when compared to ours, that said it still works fine. Thanks for giving it a try, makes you value your metal planes even more now :-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wilburpan Posted February 11, 2014 Report Share Posted February 11, 2014 Lastly I sharpened and put a camber on the blade which took the most time. I still haven't gotten a hand grinder up and running (I now own two and have two different sized bushings on order from Amazon—hopefully I can make one work with my 3X grinding wheel) but I broke down and cambered it with P80 sandpaper on glass. I think I'm only down to 10" radius, rather than 8" which is what Chris Schwarz recommends for a fore plane. But it's working OK and I can camber some more once I get a grinder. If your newly rehabbed plane is working for you, don’t worry about redoing the camber. I initially put an 8” radius camber on my jack planes, and over time I’ve reduced the camber down to about a 10” radius. The bottom line is that you have a camber that allows you to hog off wood efficiently while leaving a surface that is not so scalloped that further flattening and smoothing is a pain in the tuckus. The exact radius is not critical for this task to be accomplished. Nice job on the rehab, by the way! Your plane looks great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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