Cutting veneer with hand tools?

[tdh36185]

I am not seeing a reason that one couldn't cut veneers with hand tools, albeit they would be thicker veneers. What would one suggest as a method of ripping thin stock to do bent laminations, I already sold my crappy bandsaw so that is out of the question. Thanks.

[Arminius]

I am not seeing a reason that one couldn't cut veneers with hand tools, albeit they would be thicker veneers. What would one suggest as a method of ripping thin stock to do bent laminations, I already sold my crappy bandsaw so that is out of the question. Thanks.

 

Take a look at Tom Fidgen's new book, as well as his current video/blog project.   He uses a 'kerfing plane' to establish the cut for a frame saw he also builds.  Here is a link to the kerfing plane, I don't think he has done the frame saw yet.

[Bob Rozaieski]

A standard rip saw works fine for narrower stock. For stock about 8" wide and more you'd do better with a saw with bigger teeth. My veneer/resaw frame saw has 3 PPI. It works fast but takes some skill to use. For bent lamination stuff you're typically talking about stuff 1-3" wide, so a standard 5-6 PPI rip saw will work fine. You'll need to build a flat planing board with a low profile planing stop to clean up the sawn surface. I've done veneers to 3/32" thick this way. That's about the traditional thickness for a veneer.

[RenaissanceWW]

I agree with Bob.  We have similar saws to begin with so that is inevitable.  I actually find that when working with stock that is narrower than 4" that setting my frame saw down and going back to my 28" 5 ppi rip saw is easier.  I usually aim for 1/8" thick then once I flatten it with my toothing plane I end up around the 3/32 mark as Bob suggests...sometimes thinner.  Bent lamination can use much thicker veneers too depending on the severity of the curve you are making so you may be able to saw even thicker veneers and save some time to get your final bent thickness.