I too am building a Roubo


FtrPilot

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This afternoon, I un-clamped the back slab.

 

I then spent a couple of hours with the Stanley #7...all in all, very happy with the results.

 

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Tomorrow, I will put the back slab through the thickness planer to match the thickness of the front slab.

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This morning, I set up my thickness planer and planed the back slab to the same thickness as the front slab.  Unfortunately, I didn't take any pictures of the slab going through the planer.  However, the setup was identical to the front slab going through the planer...

Here's a picture of the front slab going through the planer.

 

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Here's the back slab...overall, very happy.

 

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Here's the front & back slabs together on the base.

 

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Next up is cut the mortises on the front and back slabs so the slabs will sit on the base.  In the pictures above, the slabs are sitting on a 1 1/2 inch spacer.

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Out of curiosity, during the glue up, did you pay attention To raising grain direction? On slabs like cutting board blanks, I've run into issues going through the planer when all the pieces grain aren't raising in the same direction. Seems like getting that right before glue up would be the only way to get it smooth off the planer.

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Out of curiosity, during the glue up, did you pay attention To raising grain direction? On slabs like cutting board blanks, I've run into issues going through the planer when all the pieces grain aren't raising in the same direction. Seems like getting that right before glue up would be the only way to get it smooth off the planer.

 

I did this with my laminations on my front slab, and even still there are some spots with reversing grain. Due to the lengths of the boards it's difficult to avoid that one board that doesn't like you.

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Out of curiosity, during the glue up, did you pay attention To raising grain direction? On slabs like cutting board blanks, I've run into issues going through the planer when all the pieces grain aren't raising in the same direction. Seems like getting that right before glue up would be the only way to get it smooth off the planer.

 

 

I did this with my laminations on my front slab, and even still there are some spots with reversing grain. Due to the lengths of the boards it's difficult to avoid that one board that doesn't like you.

 

I tried to do this on both slabs, however, as Tom states, there always seems to be one board that doesn't like you.

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In prepping the slabs for install on the base, I noted a small amount of twist in both slabs ~1/32".   So I had a decision to make.  Live with the twists and handle at final flattening, or hand plane to remove the twists, or remove the twists using my thickness planer and a planer sled.  After much discussion with my mentor, Bob, I decided to use my thickness planer and a planer sled.

 

Each slab took 5 passes through the planer on the sled to remove the twists...confirmed with winding sticks.  After the twists were removed, I put the opposite sides through the planer and brought them down to a final thickness of 4 1/8".  Unfortunately, no pictures.

 

Next, I completed install of the tail vise.  Here's the dry fit.

 

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Then I took the slabs to Bob's basement and cut them to final length on his sliding miter saw.

 

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Back to my garage to route the mortises in the slabs for install on the base and the mortise for the sliding deadman.

 

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Installed the tail vise...note, the tail vise block is temporary.

 

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Here's some pics...

 

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Next up...remove and finish the chop.

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Here's a picture of the chop prior to removal.

 

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After removal, I glued up a 4/4 board onto each end.  Here's a picture.

 

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After removing the clamps, about 10 miracles happened and here's the chop in it's final shape.  I still need to bevel some outer edges, but the shape is done.

 

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In the picture, the chop appears skewed.  The problem is photography...the chop is symmetrical.

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  • 7 months later...

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