Johnson Paste Wax

[tomwassmer]

Hello all!

My father has decided to refinish some old furniture that has been in storage for years. He has sanded, stained, and polyurethaned them. As a final step he's using Johnson's paste wax. I have never used this in finishing (I'm not sure he has either). I read some reviews on the product and it seems it's used more for maintaining furniture day in and day out than a last step to the actual finishing process. Does anyone know if it's good to use it during the finishing process or is it something to stay away from for any reason? Maybe it doesn't matter either way. Also, he has been tempted to use it after stain (not planning on poly-ing that particular piece).

[Mister Pants]

Given that he's already top-coated with poly, the paste wax is just going to add another layer of protection in the manner its normally used. In essence he's going to be ahead of the curve. I don't foresee it causing any problems (hesitant to say it definitely won't as there're folk here who know way more than me ).

edit: I missed the last part about putting it straight over stain, I don't think I'd want to do that without sealing the stain with either some poly or shellac. Given how stain tends to sit on the surface I could see the wax pulling some of it off during buffing, and could result in it looking really muddy. Mind you that's just a non-experience thought not having done it.

[dtrust]

If I understand the reason for waxing over a final coat of poly, it's just to give the piece a bit more of a shine and a bit of slipperyness (is that a word?). The advantage to the slippery part is that something dragged across the surface will have a tendency to slide over the finish rather than dig in and cause more scratches.

The wax will also hide small scratches. Very small scratches.

The only real advice I can give is to wait for the poly to completely cure. This takes way longer than what just makes it 'feel' hard and dry. We're talking a week at least, from all I've read. I can vouch for the kind of problems waxing over an uncured finish will cause. You will never get the streaks out of the wax, no matter how much you buff, if the poly is not completely cured.

(don't ask how I know) :-)

Others on here will have more info I'm sure.

[Pete Bennett]

As Don says if the poly has cured completely you should have no trouble at all. However I'm not sure about your final comment concerning using it over stain only. Almost all the Oak furniture that I make is either Danish Oil or wax finished. I mix all my own wax polish from raw Bees wax and turpentine. I always apply a sealer over any stain if I use any, because the thinners in the wax polish can sometimes cause problems by streaking or blotching as it dissolves some of the stain. Typically I'll use Shellac in Methelated spirits for this. I have no personal knowledge of Johnson's paste wax but I am guessing it is Bees wax and probably canauba wax dissolved in turps or similar. So I would apply at least one coat of sealer to be safe. If you use shellac it dries clear and quick so you can spread your wax the next day no trouble.

Hope this is of some help.

Pete

[dryhter]

Hey Pete,

Here is a link PASTE and it looks like your guess about the ingredients was correct. I use this product in the shop to keep things slippery . I have never used it as a finish. it has some resistance to water, but not much, leaves a silky smooth texture that is pleasing to the touch and a nice rich luster, but I can't imagine for the life of me applying ( and then having to buff it ) on a set of cabinets or a piece of furniture. What is your procedure for finishing with wax. I am just curious how do you buff out the wax and not have swirl marks, the build up in the corners, nooks, and crannies, or is that part of the look you are going for.

Thanks

Dave

[Pete Bennett]

No problem Dave I spread as even a coat as I can baring in mind that the paste is about the consistency of a very thick extra thick double cream, if you can understand that. I then leave it to dry completely which can take any time from an hour to the next day at this time of year. I then have a marvelous gadget distributed by a company called Fiddes which is a bristle mop of a sort which you attach to a drill at about 2000 rpm. this will buff a ten feet by five feet table in about ten minutes. The finish is pristine and you can control the gloss by the number of times you go over it. Incidentally I always give the final pass from one end to the other and try not to overlap the passes if possible. On mouldings etc. it will still work but, very often I'll leave some wax, only a smear you understand, in the tight corners or niches. On a few 'Oldy worldy' French farmhouse cabinets I'll sometimes rub a bit of dirt in there and buff, then re-wax and repeat until I feel there's just enough suggestion of age induced patina and grime. Having said that I always insist, sometimes against the client's desires, that we don't go too far with this. I like things that are old to look old, not something I just knocked up.

When I'm in the shop tomorrow I'll try get a pic of the mop and post it tomorrow night.

Pete

[Pete Bennett]

Here you are Dave it's regular Hog's bristles I think but it works a dream.