Need suggestions on how to make this cut

[Roger T]

Hi guys, need some advice.

Here is a picture of a mockup that I have made for my next project. The stock for these pieces is 8/4 Red Oak. The X pieces will finish up at around 1 3/4" and be about 2 3/4" wide, by almost 5' long.

Each leg of the X is joined by a half lap joint, which is not a problem to make them fit correctly. The problem is to make the seat cut on both the bottom and top of each leg. There will be another piece of 8/4 that has to sit perfectly flush with no gaps. As close as I can tell, this obtuse angle is about 56 1/2*. I had thought about making a jig to use on the tablesaw to make these cuts, but even an error of 1/2* due to the length of the cut would be unacceptable.

This has to be completed on 4 sets of these X's. I need some suggestions on how to make these cuts come out correctly.

Roger

[Dave H]

your on the right track with the table saw make a sled for it with no fence at this point. while you have your pieces in mock up take a bevel gauge and discover the angle of the seat cut. trasfer that to the established 90 deg edge of the fenceless sled afix a fence at that angle and you have a miter sled at the correct angle. good luck

[rmac]

This looks like a perfect job for a track saw. Assemble the legs with the ends left long, clamp the track in position, and saw away.

If you don't have a track saw, do the same thing with a circular saw and a jig like the one shown here:

http://www.finehomebuilding.com/how-to/video/build-a-breakfast-booth-video-series-step-1.aspx

-- Russ

[petersb]

Both suggestions are good. Cut about 1/8" over length (1/16" for each end) and handplane or sand to the exact line for a perfect fit. It is easier and quicker to "finesse" it to the proper fit than to try and take it in one shot with something that you are not sure of and end up having to remake the pieces.

[Pete Bennett]

Table saws and track saws are all very well, but, for such a small joint, as infact for any difficult shoulder cut the 'old fashioned way to do this was to clamp a straight piece of stock exactly on the line and cut by hand saw using the piece to guide you. If you are careful and do not scuff into the clamped piece you will make a perfect shoulder joint at virtually any width of timber. Once you've made the cut and before you remove the clamped piece take a very sharp wide, as wide as you have, chisel and keeping it tight against the clamped piece take tiny slivers off the sawn edge and you will never see the join.

Pete

[Roger T]

Just an update, and Thanks everyone for your suggestions.

Went ahead today and made a sled to make the seat cuts. Once I had the lap joints fitted, I stood the assembly up on the bench. Using a 1/2" piece of wood scribed a like where I wanted the bottom cut to be. I have a very long bevel gauge that I used to establish the angle from the leg to the bench top. Using the bevel gauge I set the fences on the sled. I had to have a double fence for the sled as my table saw would not cut the 8/4 in one pass. So I would make a pass cutting to a scribed line full depth, then flip the piece to the other side to finish the cut. Making sure to leave the second cut a little proud of the first. Then it was a simple matter to take a shoulder plane and plane off the fat part to make them flush. Getting the top cuts done, required a trip back to the bench with the flat feet sitting on the bench. I made a story pole and marked the top cuts on each leg. Then using the bevel gauge again, scribed a line on the pencil marks. I was really thrilled when the top seat cuts mated with the top rail, as there were no gaps or mouse holes to have to deal with.

Had a GREAT DAY in the shop for a change.

Thanks again everyone

Roger

[Dave H]

good job roger nice jig. hey i have the same saw it's been a good saw my dream saw is the unasaw but the old ridgid gits'r done.

[Bombarde16]

Task appears already done; but put me down as +1 for the track saw.

I'm curious what this is for and what sort of stress it's going to receive. Since this is the joinery forum, I wondered how the top piece gets attached to the legs of the X.

[Roger T]

Task appears already done; but put me down as +1 for the track saw.

I'm curious what this is for and what sort of stress it's going to receive. Since this is the joinery forum, I wondered how the top piece gets attached to the legs of the X.

Hi Rob,

These are for arrowhead display cases to lay on top of. Each case is 25x52" Not a terrible lot of weight. The X's are joined with a lap joint. The seat cut on the top, has 8, 3/8" dowels, which go into a stretcher that spans each X. Each pair of X's, are attached to each other using 1x4's, with 4, 3/8" dowels at each end. 4 span the 2 top rails, and one each toward the bottom of each leg.

Hope this helps explain my piece a little better.

Roger

[Dave H]

looks real nice roger must be alot of arrow heads because that thing is brick house