Bevans Posted May 4, 2016 Report Share Posted May 4, 2016 I believed I screwed up again! I attempted to apply minwax wipe on poly over a cherry bookcase top that I had applied Danish oil about 2 weeks ago. I had forgotten why I stopped using wipe on poly products because no matter how I try I always get streaks. Well, I got them again with one light coat applied. My question is will they always be there or can I attempt to use my HLVP Fuji sprayer gun and spray a couple coats of the stuff over the existing layer? I am reluctant to sand even with 800 paper because I know there will scuff marks. Not trying to reach perfection but do want to cover the streaks if possible. I gave up using wipe on with projects that have more than 24 inch spans a couple years ago and did a relapse. Anyone have suggestions on the fix at this point? thanks in advance Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
midtnwoodworker Posted May 4, 2016 Report Share Posted May 4, 2016 Sand with 400 grit paper and then spray on the finish with your Fuji. It is going to scuff the surface, this is what you want. Do not sand aggressively just lightly scuff the surface. When you scuff the surface you leave little scratches that the new finish will settle into and create a smooth level surface. When sanding you want the surface to look like this. You can use a little mineral oil mixed with mineral spirits while sanding to make it easier if you want, but I typically just sand dry or with a little water. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bevans Posted May 4, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 4, 2016 Sounds good...do I hit the streak marks a little heavier? Also, Looks like you made a block sander and lightly swirled is that correct or did you follow the grain? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobInAustin Posted May 4, 2016 Report Share Posted May 4, 2016 50 minutes ago, Bevans said: Sounds good...do I hit the streak marks a little heavier? Also, Looks like you made a block sander and lightly swirled is that correct or did you follow the grain? Since you're sanding finish, there is no grain. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted May 4, 2016 Report Share Posted May 4, 2016 Do you have a photo of the streaks? You must be doing something wrong because wipe on poly is very forgiving. How are you applying? Rag, brush, or foam brush? Are you over working in? You just wipe or brush it on and leave it alone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bevans Posted May 4, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 4, 2016 I tried to get a picture of the streaks but the lighting now just creates a bright spot and the streaks get washed out. I used a folded tee shirt, dampened the folded cloth with mineral spirits and got the cloth wet (not dripping wet) with wipe on poly I poured in a plastic bowl and applied a span of 72" going in the same direction and thought it looked pretty good when I left. A few hours later the streaks wherer I overlapped the strokes are very noticeable. I had a very similar problem with ARS that I tried wiping on a walnut dining table top. I ended up sanding back to bare wood twice before I gave up and sprayed a couple coats on that looked great. There is definitely something wrong with my wipe on technique. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted May 4, 2016 Report Share Posted May 4, 2016 couple ideas: 1) your finish might not be thoroughly mixed. Most finishing have flattening agents and if they are not fully disolved you will get streaks. 2) I have never pre-moistened my rag with MS. Maybe others do that but I could see it causing problems. 3) Most folks dilute their Arm R Seal or Minwax if using a rag. Personally I find a foam brush to be easier (for me) and I do no dilute. 72" is a long span. You will need to recharge your rag in order to get an even coat over 72". I'd work from the center out so you are only doing 36" at a time. Then go back the other way with a slightly recharged rag, overlapping a bit in the center. But that is just me. Finishing is an art and a science and you need to know when something is going wrong as it is going wrong. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..Kev Posted May 4, 2016 Report Share Posted May 4, 2016 You might take a look at some of Matt Cremona's videos on finishing. He works in small sections and then takes long strokes at the end of each coat. He primarily uses Arm R Seal. Marc has some good finishing videos as well. I've never use MS to presoak my rags either. Not sure where that idea comes from? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bevans Posted May 4, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 4, 2016 Mike your comments seem to be very logical and on target. I am not sure I even want to attempt another application with a rag applicator at this point. I am more interested in fixing what I did and then applying the poly with my sprayer. I and headed toward using a block sander with 400 grit paper as midtnwoodworker and bobinaustin responded. I was worried that sanding a thin coat of poly over the Danish oil would make matters worse if I scuffed into the Danish oil. i really do appreciate the help and advice I have gotten from the experienced woodworkers here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..Kev Posted May 4, 2016 Report Share Posted May 4, 2016 You could set up a test board for practice before going to the good stuff. Then, there will be no surprises. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AceHoleInOne Posted May 4, 2016 Report Share Posted May 4, 2016 Now is not the time to block sand, period. You don't have enough finish down (you have 1 thin coat down correct?) All you want is a very light wipe with some 600 paper. Always sand (wipe in this case) with the grain stay off the edges. At this stage don't wet sand with water or MS mineral oil. You don't have enough of a film build yet and those lubricants can get into the wood and cause you issues. Don't thin the product, apply full strength. You need to apply the poly as quickly as you can don't over work it. Keep a wet edge like painting a wall. I have done dining table tops for years and years hand wiping with ARS and a folded cotton rag, no issue. Get the finish on and let it flow out. -Ace- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bevans Posted May 4, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 4, 2016 Thanks Ace... I was concerned only having 1 thin coat down and sanding at this point. Going with 600 is less aggressive than 400 and safer. It's those pesky streaks that concern me that no matter what they will remain and that is what most worrisome. I know that some guys and gals have no issues with the wipe on poly but I cannot get it right. I am very tempted to pour the wipe on poly into the spray cup after I sand and clean and go that route. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
midtnwoodworker Posted May 5, 2016 Report Share Posted May 5, 2016 The sanding block was not what I was trying to show in the picture just the slurry of poly that is created when sanding. If sanding dry you want to see white dust, if sanding wet you want the slurry produced like in the photo. It seemed like you were concerned about sanding the finish so that is why I linked that picture. I definitely would not use a sanding block, but didn't really notice it when I posted that. Sorry for the confusion. Hope the streaks get worked out, you have received some good advise. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bevans Posted May 5, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 5, 2016 Did a light sanding with 600 paper, wiped clean, vacuumed, another wipe with a clean damp cloth and then loaded up the spray cup with the minwax wipe-on poly and sprayed a coat on this morning. Other than a few tiny floating hairs the top came out beautifully, much better than my hand and rag wipe on process. The streaks are almost invisible. I think that I am going to end the finishing process here other than rubbing it down in a few days after it completely dries. Thanks for the contributions, I learned a lot. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AceHoleInOne Posted May 5, 2016 Report Share Posted May 5, 2016 So how ya like the sticky mess of spraying an oil? Sucks right! Make it a point to learn water-based Topcoats, You'll be glad ya did. Ummm, a word of caution, wait more than a couple days to rub an oil finish. 2 weeks or even longer. They take time to cure. -Ace- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
midtnwoodworker Posted May 5, 2016 Report Share Posted May 5, 2016 I have never had an issue spraying oil-based finish, and I even spray un-diluted. As long as I clean the gun after which takes about 5 mins, I don't ever have any problems. I can't really describe what I don't like about water based top-coats other than to say I just don't like them. I know you were talking to the OP, but I felt I needed to stand up for oil-based poly! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AceHoleInOne Posted May 5, 2016 Report Share Posted May 5, 2016 1 hour ago, midtnwoodworker said: I have never had an issue spraying oil-based finish, and I even spray un-diluted. As long as I clean the gun after which takes about 5 mins, I don't ever have any problems. I can't really describe what I don't like about water based top-coats other than to say I just don't like them. I know you were talking to the OP, but I felt I needed to stand up for oil-based poly! Hey man, feel away -Ace- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bevans Posted May 6, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 6, 2016 ace, I have used water based top coats for a few years and like it. I felt I needed to continue with the oil based only because I had started with it. Seems like I read that it is not the best to mix differ the topcoat types. It did take a little to clean the gun but not too bad. What made you think I have not learned about water based topcoats? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AceHoleInOne Posted May 6, 2016 Report Share Posted May 6, 2016 It's cool, sorry to assume that you haven't learned about water-based topcoats. So have you used a particular manufactures product yet? If so which one do you like? -Ace- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bevans Posted May 15, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 15, 2016 Finally got this project finished. I did spray 2 coats of wipe on poly just because I keep messing up (streaks) when applying with a rag. I waited about 10 days before I rubbed out a polish with a brown bag that knocked down the nibs and roughness. Will be wrapped in plastic and delivered tomorrow. Thanks again for all those that provided input. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheperd80 Posted May 15, 2016 Report Share Posted May 15, 2016 Nice work, it looks great. Its always a good feeling to rescue a project from finish problems. :-) Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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