Big Ginkgo Blocks

[Homer Simpson]

wtnhighlander, I have some substantial background in drawing and painting and my father is an architect. 

The spikes were INTENDED to provide support for the legs and prevent them from breaking during the drying process. I installed these prior to posting here and prior to learning that it probably was not helpful and might be harmful. .. Actually everything I have done so far on this project happened prior to posting here and all I have done since is pause and consider the various pieces of information I am being given. 

 

 

[Immortan D]

2 hours ago, Lester Burnham said:

A suggestion from a different direction...

 

If you're really set on a shape like that, you could try going with plywood and veneer. Or maybe get some of that fancy baltic birch plywood and keep it simple. Either way, you'd only need to make 1 section, then it's flush trim bit city. Just spitballin' here.

 

 

 

John Heisz made a OSB Stool using a similar approach.

 

 

[Homer Simpson]

Thanks for the suggestion Lester. That looks like a more reasonable way of going about it. 

The OSB chair is interesting, making something elegant out of materials that are not-so-refined, and retaining the distinctive look of those materials.

I know that gluing and laminating are really fundamental concepts in woodworking, but I'm really not attracted to those processes. It's a different project at that point, probably for a different person to make.

[Ryan Grondin]

Sweet!

[Homer Simpson]

Well so far the only action I've taken is something approximating the advice of wdwerker in the very first reply to this post.

Two or three weeks ago I wrapped this piece, along with the others, in black plastic with sawdust inside.

I didn't weigh the table until last weekend because I didn't have a scale until then. It weighed in at 105 lbs.

So far there is no visible cracking or splitting.

 

 

I'm still contemplating the PEG treatment, but not finding very satisfying resources so far. It is expensive and there are few vendors. I'm trying to figure out what is practical, how small I can make the box for the PEG bath and if my idea for drilling holes for PEG reservoirs would really amount to the 2" penetration from each exposed surface, the way PEG specs in manuals. .. I see there are a few members in this community who use PEG, but it is mostly only mentioned in passing. I will probably start a new thread dedicated to PEG talk.

Here is my general idea, (drawings will have to be redone more accurately if I end up executing this plan), drilling an array of 2" wide holes and bathing the table upside down:

 

[wdwerker]

You could build a box that just fits your block and line it with a plastic sheet to limit the volume needed. I wouldn't try the drilling approach. 

[Homer Simpson]

1 hour ago, wdwerker said:

You could build a box that just fits your block and line it with a plastic sheet to limit the volume needed. I wouldn't try the drilling approach. 

If I don't drill the holes I will have to do something else for the PEG to penetrate the interior of the block. PEG only penetrates a few inches below the exposed surfaces and my block is at least 10" thick.

I'm not sure if I was clear, but the drilled holes were not an alternative to submersing the entire table in PEG bath. I would still do the whole bath.

.. I would like to know before I spend a lot of money on PEG just how much I need. .. Is there any problem with building my box and submersing my table in WATER in order to measure the volume of liquid needed? Any risk to getting the wood wet like that at this stage? .. Could I just leave it submerged in water until I have my PEG on hand?

[wdwerker]

It's been a very long time since I messed with the stuff. That was with green wood rough turned bowls so I was unaware of the 2" limitation. I would keep it in damp sawdust. I also remember reading some pieces were kept submerged in the stuff for months.

[Homer Simpson]

 

I pulled it out and weighed it again. It's down about 5 lbs to an even 100 lbs. Still no visible splitting on the block I cut but there are some radial cracks on one of the smaller uncut pieces:

Is it possible my squared off piece is less proned to splitting? I have read of others milling out boards as quickly as possible, before the drying process.

.. Should I move this stuff indoors before freezing temperatures come?

[Homer Simpson]

The block I had cut seems to have stabilized at about 70lbs. It has been that weight for about two months now, down from 105lbs at my earliest measurement (which was a month or so after the tree was cut). I guess it has been about 10 months since the tree was cut.

There has been some cracking which I can tolerate so far. But it has not fallen apart. Some twisting has resulted in wobbly legs, no longer level. But I will even them out when it is time.

What actions can I take now that the weight has stabilized?








Is it time for a treatment of some kind? Or a more aggressive drying process? May I start reshaping the block to its final form?

... What materials may be used for filling cracks effectively? .. I am most concerned with stability and longevity rather than looks and transparency. I was also considering installing some long nails from underneath, at angles to hold the cracked parts together. I was advised against this last year, but that was when the wood was quite wet.

[RichardA]

Even with 6 to 10% moisture, the nails will rust and it'll show up in the wood.  Epoxy is probably your best bet for filling checks.  I'd be inclined to say you can start remodeling the block to whatever you want it to be... The one caution I'd suggest is to get it as close to finished as possible and let it sit for a week or two, if there's no more checking, go on to the finished project.  Look up bow ties for checking in wood. It's an inlay and does resist further expansion of the checks.  But with limited skills, it might be a problem, but it is worth looking into.

[phinds]

On 7/24/2016 at 9:46 PM, K Cooper said:

I thought you were going to tell him to put it out by the curb on garbage day?

Nah, I think the suggestion was more that he follow my own personal methodology which is to put it aside for a few years until it's thoroughly dried and cracked all to hell and gone and THEN put it out by the curb ...