EEstudent Posted June 23, 2018 Report Share Posted June 23, 2018 I am assisting a friend build an table top to place on some wine barrels to make a "bar" type table. The table is approximately 4ft wide by 8ft long. It was built out of 2x6 cedar from home depot that was laminated together. I've finished the glue up and sanding. So it is time to stain and finish. A minwax stain will be applied for some color, but I am having a tough time identifying what would be the best type of finish. Ideally this table top will live outdoors all year long. It is unlikely to get wet or receive much direct sun exposure at all since it will be under a covered patio. I did some searching around and saw this article, https://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/videos/durable-outdoor-finish/ However I don't think my friend wants to spend that much on finish material. Looking at this article it seems like Urethane is more along the straight forward approach for this particular project. https://www.popularwoodworking.com/projects/outdoor-finishes What are your guys personal preferences or it recommendations, should I just follow the popular wood working article? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Z. Posted June 23, 2018 Report Share Posted June 23, 2018 I'm a big fan of Epifanes... But Epifanes is expensive. Less expensive would be TotalBoat Gleam: https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=97698&familyName=TotalBoat+Gleam+2.0+Spar+Varnish But when searching for that, I also came across this TotalBoat product that may work for you: https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=64352&familyName=TotalBoat+Marine+Wood+Finish Marc's finish of varnish over epoxy does work well, but it is not necessary. Also, because you won't be seeing a lot of UV, the traditional 8 coats may not be necessary. Certainly, I've done many boats with just straight up varnish. The one thing spar varnish will give you (as will the second product I listed above) is flexibility. An outdoor table will move more than an indoor table, and that's an area where spar varnish shines (no pun intended). 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted June 23, 2018 Report Share Posted June 23, 2018 Be careful with Minwax stains. Leaving a heavy coat on the surface to dry in an attempt to get a darker result will cause adhesion problems with your finish. Multiple coats of Minwax stains will do the same thing. You must wipe off the excess after a few minutes to prevent this. If you sand to a high grit the stain won't soak in as well. Hand sanding with the grain 120 or 150 will improve stain absorption. If you really want a dark or rich color dye stains are much better. General Finishes makes some good ones. Your best approach will be to sand some of the scraps the exact same way you did the tabletop and then practice staining & finishing on those. If you just jump right in to finishing the tabletop it is a lot of work to fix poor results. If there aren't many scraps the underside of a table is another good place to practice. Just mask off a couple inches of the bottom & edge surfaces so you don't get practice stain & finish where it will show. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EEstudent Posted June 23, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 23, 2018 I didn't really think about the boat finishes. Thanks for the product suggestions. I will take a look at those and see how that might work out. I have some cedar offcuts that we have been trying some stains out on. The stain color won't be too dark. Currently the table is sanded down to 220. Is minwax considered budget or entry level type finishes? Or is more of they have their place and it isn't oriented towards finer woodworking? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted June 23, 2018 Report Share Posted June 23, 2018 Minwax is so widespread but they have issues unless used correctly. There are so many better stains available and lots of them dry quicker, create richer tones and don't cause adhesion problems. Minwax stains don't play well with some water bourne finishes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted June 23, 2018 Report Share Posted June 23, 2018 If the table is only exposed to humidity changes, not direct rainfall or sunshine, I'm thinking a few coats of spar urathane may be all you need. As stated above, flexibility is key to avoid having the finish crack and peel as the wood moves with changes in humidity. Minwax stain should be fine, but beware, not all the colors behave the same. For example, the "mahogany" from the same line as their "dark walnut" has a very different formulation, and requires much longer to cure out. Read the instructions carefully, and like Steve says, test on some scraps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EEstudent Posted July 4, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 4, 2018 thanks for everyone who responded. I think we will go with spar urathane as the final finish and just be careful with the selected stain. I will post some pictures when finished. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hwest1977 Posted July 7, 2018 Report Share Posted July 7, 2018 Hi there, I have built (my first) outdoor table out of reclaimed southern pine and applied a shou sugi ban finish. It is pressure treated wood so I definitely want to seal and varnish the table the right way. I have seen many of your videos and went with your recommendation of Total Boat products and Epifanes high gloss to matte finish. My question is this...I purchased Total Boat Varnish Primer to seal the table. Would it be best to cut this product with Acetone to avoid clumping? I’ve never worked with a product like this and don’t want to ruin the table. (Pics attached) Lastly, you posted a video and used linseed oil and naphtha in addition to the epifanes varnish. How did that work out for you? I live in Northern California with relatively low humidity. Thanks for any feedback you can offer. Have a great day!! Hunter W. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted July 8, 2018 Report Share Posted July 8, 2018 I hope you wore a respirator when you torched that treated wood ! Clear finishes outdoors will require frequent attention. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hwest1977 Posted July 8, 2018 Report Share Posted July 8, 2018 Thank you for your concern. Yes, I try to take precautions when working with potentially toxic material. I do appreciate your feedback...I am brand new to this trade but work as a flight nurse full time and have the utmost respect for my lungs, eyes, and all appendages. Just looking for the safest and lowest maintenance way to finish my table. Thanks again, Hunter respect for my lungs, appendages, etc. 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted July 8, 2018 Report Share Posted July 8, 2018 Good to hear that ! The old CCA treated was far more toxic but the new PT has some sort of alkaline copper compounds I still wouldn't want to breathe the dust or smoke from. Your table looks good ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hwest1977 Posted July 8, 2018 Report Share Posted July 8, 2018 Thank you wdwerker! One of my concerns from the beginning was the toxins from pressure treated wood. Do ya think a good sealant and several coats of varnish will be sufficient to maintain a safe eating surface? (Assuming we use plates and such?) Lol. I’ve heard mixed reviews regarding pressure treated wood and outdoor furniture. Thanks again for the positive feedback and any suggestions you may have from this step forward! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted July 8, 2018 Report Share Posted July 8, 2018 If you use plates and keep a good coat of exterior varnish on it I would hope it would be safe. Warnings were for dust inhalation. The alkaline content means corrosion if you don't use the properly rated fasteners. If the char is coming off that would probably be unsafe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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