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Chuck Collier

finishing

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I'm making a farmhouse table for a friend that wants it made out of pine. He can't spend the money for walnut or a hardwood so

my question is can I use epoxy resin to finish this table top with expansion and contraction without cracking? The table is 42 x 72 x 3 with breadboard 

ends. The pine I'm using is yellow pine glued with biskets. All surfaces have been jointed and planed. Moisture content is 10-11. Any ideas? Can someone

help me? Thank you in advance.

This is tabletop epoxy. 1/8 inch thick

 

 

Edited by Chuck Collier
didn't maybe explain what I was using correctly

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My bet is that it will crack. 

Why epoxy? Looking for a hard, durable finish? Unless you completely encase the top in resin, moisture changes will still occur, making a cracked finish almost inevitable. Besides, "farmhouse table" and epoxy finish go together like tuna and ice cream. I'd use a typical polyurathane finish. If you want a harder surface, scorch the wood lightly to remove surface moisture. Not burned to charcoal like sho shugi ban, but warmed enough to carmelize. A paint stripping heat gun is good for this. It would be tedious on a table that large, but it will darken and firm up the surface.

10% moisture might be high, if the table is going into an air-conditioned house. I built a red oak table, 2" thick, that turned potato chip in 3 months of HVAC. It went from 10-12% to 6%.

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It will most assuredly crack unless the core is something more stable like plywood with just a laminate layer of the pine.

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I’d ask them why they want epoxy. Chances are they don’t really understand and think it will just make the table last longer and more durable. There are few reasons TO use epoxy as a topcoat and many reasons NOT to. 
A clear penetrating epoxy sealer (CPES) could be used, but it would still need a topcoat. 

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