Matchfit Sled for Grandpa's Saw


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On 12/27/2023 at 5:51 PM, gee-dub said:

@Ron Swanson Jr. - That is just what I heard Gary Rogowski call it a long time ago . . . It is the block or box that is on the back of the back fence where the blade may exit and try to take off a "dummy's" thumb :D.  Seriously, it is anything that the blade can bury itself in rather than be exposed at the rear of the sled.  I have used laminated plywood scrap, laminated hardwood scrap and a box brad nailed out of scrap ply.  Literally anything other than a spinning blade suddenly appearing out of the rear fence while your attention is on the sled operation.

Thanks! Sound like a good idea! 

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Thanks for a great post. As I am building a new sled so that I will have hold downs. I built a beast 2 years ago, but the base is 1/2" MDF. That doesn't leave a whole lot of room for tracks or

So. I have a few sheets of 3/4" BB, and have ordered the Microfit tools you suggested, and will build a new one. Not sure about the slot spacing, tho. Did you say yours is 4"?

This post, I picked up 2 really good tips. 1) the base with the strip of wood in the dado to keep the next slot parallel, and 2) leaving the slots at the front fence, a dado, so you can get the clamp into the slots up there. 

Quick do you square up the rear fence with the blade? I've used the 4 cut method that Marc has posted on you tube, and it works well.

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@roughsawn - Yes, spacing is 4" but you could also just divide your base's dimensions at some interval that suits you.  4" has worked out well for me.  Many ideas taken from a guy who has every conceivable thing in his shop built around MatchFit clamping.

As shown the t-bots have some wiggle room for squaring.  I start with the fence pulled back as far as possible toward the operator position.  I snug one end bolt to act as a pivot.  I swing the fence to bring it into alignment with the blade as best I can using a square.  This is my starting position.  I then use the 5-cut method to dial it in.

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