Matchfit Sled for Grandpa's Saw


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Cut the first one(s) [straight bit for hogging out and dovetail for profile] on the router table.  I then grabbed a piece of scrap I had been using as a backer for the drill press (I only mention this to explain all the extra holes in the pictures) and made a jig.  I cut a 1/4" dado (the hogging-out clearance slots are cut with a 1/4" bit) and let in a piece of stock to act as a guide rail. 

I carefully center the plate on my plunge router. 


I measure my distance (4" in my case) and drill a hole that fits the template collar.


I remove the router base, put the template collar into the hole, and use a transfer punch to locate the holes to mount the router to the scrap . .. er . . . precision jig ;-)

I make the holes fit the screws snug in the hope of maintaining, as best as possible, the centering alignment.  Having said that, it really isn't super important but, I was challenging myself . . . I get that way when I'm bored.


Cut your first clearance slot at the router table or with a straight edge.  Put the guide rail in that slot and use the guide rail to guide the cut of the next slot.  Rinse and repeat.

Once all the slots are cut, switch out the bit for the dovetail bit. 


Put the guide rail in the slot that is second from the edge farthest from you and route the dovetail profile in the "last" row.  I added a handle to the piece of scrap to give me a better grip where I needed it.


Back towards you one row using the slot to accept the guide rail and cut the dovetail into the "second to last" slot.  Back towards you another row using the slot to accept the guide rail and cut the dovetail into the "third to last" slot.  Rinse and repeat.  The last row will need to be done separately as you run out of slots to use as a guide.  This can be done at the router table with the fence or hand held with an edge guide.

If that doesn't make sense I can add more to it.

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