Popular Post gee-dub Posted December 19, 2020 Popular Post Report Share Posted December 19, 2020 I plan to use this old Craftsman 113. saw (that Grandpa bought new) as a task specific cross-cut and joinery station. I needed something that could hold all sorts of thing all sorts of ways. I wouldn't have all these things on here at once. This is just for the pic . The rear fence blocks one of the slots so I routed an easement that lets a clamp drop in at that location. Here's a top for any of you who use wood or UHMW runners. For wood, I shellac the runners along with the underside of the sled. Then I run a felt tip mark down both sides of both runners. Slide the sled back and forth a few times. The ink rubs off where the runners are tight. A card scraper makes quick work of removing a little material in those areas. I find getting to a smooth, well sliding sled goes pretty quick this way. 7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkinneb Posted December 20, 2020 Report Share Posted December 20, 2020 gee-dub that should come in real handy!! Question for you how did you cut the grooved and keep them straight? I have a jig where I need the same pattern albeit in a smaller foot print. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gee-dub Posted December 21, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 21, 2020 Cut the first one(s) [straight bit for hogging out and dovetail for profile] on the router table. I then grabbed a piece of scrap I had been using as a backer for the drill press (I only mention this to explain all the extra holes in the pictures) and made a jig. I cut a 1/4" dado (the hogging-out clearance slots are cut with a 1/4" bit) and let in a piece of stock to act as a guide rail. I carefully center the plate on my plunge router. I measure my distance (4" in my case) and drill a hole that fits the template collar. I remove the router base, put the template collar into the hole, and use a transfer punch to locate the holes to mount the router to the scrap . .. er . . . precision jig ;-) I make the holes fit the screws snug in the hope of maintaining, as best as possible, the centering alignment. Having said that, it really isn't super important but, I was challenging myself . . . I get that way when I'm bored. Cut your first clearance slot at the router table or with a straight edge. Put the guide rail in that slot and use the guide rail to guide the cut of the next slot. Rinse and repeat. Once all the slots are cut, switch out the bit for the dovetail bit. Put the guide rail in the slot that is second from the edge farthest from you and route the dovetail profile in the "last" row. I added a handle to the piece of scrap to give me a better grip where I needed it. Back towards you one row using the slot to accept the guide rail and cut the dovetail into the "second to last" slot. Back towards you another row using the slot to accept the guide rail and cut the dovetail into the "third to last" slot. Rinse and repeat. The last row will need to be done separately as you run out of slots to use as a guide. This can be done at the router table with the fence or hand held with an edge guide. If that doesn't make sense I can add more to it. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkinneb Posted December 21, 2020 Report Share Posted December 21, 2020 That's perfect!! Thank you so much I have been pondering this for months LOL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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