Matchfit Sled for Grandpa's Saw


gee-dub
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Cut the first one(s) [straight bit for hogging out and dovetail for profile] on the router table.  I then grabbed a piece of scrap I had been using as a backer for the drill press (I only mention this to explain all the extra holes in the pictures) and made a jig.  I cut a 1/4" dado (the hogging-out clearance slots are cut with a 1/4" bit) and let in a piece of stock to act as a guide rail. 

I carefully center the plate on my plunge router. 

876042513_Matchfit-Sled(2).jpg.907834462cc38cb0fe9e49df682234f5.jpg

I measure my distance (4" in my case) and drill a hole that fits the template collar.

303457703_Matchfit-Sled(3).jpg.4170e1208f27aeaa1e3beb682be3747a.jpg

I remove the router base, put the template collar into the hole, and use a transfer punch to locate the holes to mount the router to the scrap . .. er . . . precision jig ;-)

I make the holes fit the screws snug in the hope of maintaining, as best as possible, the centering alignment.  Having said that, it really isn't super important but, I was challenging myself . . . I get that way when I'm bored.

269081589_Matchfit-Sled(4).jpg.2b598dbaea730c8afc64e922541d080c.jpg

Cut your first clearance slot at the router table or with a straight edge.  Put the guide rail in that slot and use the guide rail to guide the cut of the next slot.  Rinse and repeat.

Once all the slots are cut, switch out the bit for the dovetail bit. 

1855245990_Matchfit-Sled(9).jpg.472130b406f464ed3df60fa8dcd792a9.jpg

Put the guide rail in the slot that is second from the edge farthest from you and route the dovetail profile in the "last" row.  I added a handle to the piece of scrap to give me a better grip where I needed it.

305604842_Matchfit-Sled(6).jpg.d89421cf9c91d86614c8c9abf58475e0.jpg

Back towards you one row using the slot to accept the guide rail and cut the dovetail into the "second to last" slot.  Back towards you another row using the slot to accept the guide rail and cut the dovetail into the "third to last" slot.  Rinse and repeat.  The last row will need to be done separately as you run out of slots to use as a guide.  This can be done at the router table with the fence or hand held with an edge guide.

If that doesn't make sense I can add more to it.

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  • 1 year later...

I am making a couple more of these and mentioned them in WDYDT.  I looked back at this thread and realized I really blew through it without a lot of details.  To try to add some value I will track the current effort here in more detail.

I plan the DT groove layout based on the ZCI and fence positions.  Using the contractor saw version above I learned that I would like the track pattern to start about an inch from the fence front to back and abouI an inch from either side of the ZCI moving out left and right.

This is the first drawing and close enough for discussion.  Things got adjusted slightly but that drawing is out in the shop and I am setting inside having coffee :P

671347984_MatchfitSled2(0).thumb.jpg.44b1e6acb1523d9119837b1e9ad6fe5b.jpg

In this case the dado in front of the fence position and the dados on either side of the ZCI that will go in get cut as reference slots at the router table.  I then use the hand held router with a guide to cut the rest of the dados using those starting points.

192788559_MatchfitSled2(2).thumb.jpg.9bcce688351ad5cf9213819b6985ea68.jpg

The dados are cut just a bit shy of full depth. 

1235221499_MatchfitSled2(3).thumb.jpg.e290d117e62f743d64d2b35b6823d8e7.jpg

I will then follow with the dovetail bit in the same guide jig taking extra care where the intersections are to keep the corners clean.  It is a lot of hand routing but worth the effort in the long run to me.  Here's where I am so far; just dados, no DT's yet.

1456316740_MatchfitSled2(1).thumb.jpg.4ba47e61cc927753fecb7757979ec6e2.jpg

The plywood strips will get laminated up for the fences.

 

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I think most of you have seen my take on the auto-adjust dado jig.
1897684395_MatchfitSled2(4).thumb.jpg.1579a62d30f6a9cf693bd1cc558de198.jpg

 

1079630451_MatchfitSled2(5).thumb.jpg.ab5330830db015fcc5065ff08f2f8bae.jpg
I can swap out the edge clamp depending on the length (or width) of stock I am working on.
662439125_MatchfitSled2(6).thumb.jpg.f20e88967b8e08e265c0b2d0aec585d0.jpg
The 'normal' use for this jig is for dust frames or shelves. In that case you use a piece of the shelf stock to set the width.
1423719192_MatchfitSled2(7).thumb.jpg.06dcc56bd962bcf1da5984695335d3f3.jpg
I will be cutting a 3" wide 1/4" deep dado so it will take me two setups.
1478588122_MatchfitSled2(8).thumb.jpg.9fe11a16863367f41add51b9b24ce34d.jpg
The template collar rides the shelf in the jig opening and the bit cuts flush to the edge of the jaws.
1620483859_MatchfitSled2(9).thumb.jpg.32ae900fb76043f10e6b5668aecf53de.jpg

 

1546585275_MatchfitSled2(10).thumb.jpg.2359ccd090317a9bfb83913f06c00024.jpg
After several passes and one repositioning, due to the maximum width of the jig opening, you get this.
1078530699_MatchfitSled2(11).thumb.jpg.cf3816689776fc4a2a858800009f8002.jpg

 

282549502_MatchfitSled2(12).thumb.jpg.2523be1cfc3d92cba2b5527d3248eded.jpg
Now for number two.

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This version will be 36” wide by ~30” deep. I will have about 25” between fences. The sled that this one will be replacing has 22” between fences. 

I have gotten very comfortable with sled fences 3 1/2” tall simply because that is the height I have used for years. It is tall enough for most vertical work without an auxiliary fence and allows for a good stop block surface.  Unless the sled is quite small I make the fences fairly thick, 1 1/2” to 1 3/4”.  I also like the fence closest to the operator (what I call the "back" fence) to run the full width of the sled.

The fence farthest from the operator position (what I call the "front" fence) I keep as narrow left to right as I feel is reasonable. This fence only acts as a bridge to keep the the separated base sections aligned.  It needs to be adequate to securely perform that job.  Beyond that the less that it is in the way the better :-)

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I don't know about that. My current sled design uses a single runner and 2 equal fences, so it can flip around and do bevels one way, straights the other. Limits the size, though. My next one will probably borrow some features from Glenn's. Maybe not quite as many clamping slots, but a replacable insert is a great idea.

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12 hours ago, wtnhighlander said:

I don't know about that. My current sled design uses a single runner and 2 equal fences, so it can flip around and do bevels one way, straights the other. Limits the size, though. My next one will probably borrow some features from Glenn's. Maybe not quite as many clamping slots, but a replacable insert is a great idea.

I did 1/4" MDF replaceable inserts on the bed and face of the fence, just like Glenn's. They are the bee's knees. I'm going to be putting in some of those slots as well.

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Can someone answer me why my sled is always an inch to small for the panel i need to cut? I've made mine bigger a couple times but it always seems to be an inch too small....

Nice sled. I always wondered why this dovetail clamp systems were called matchfit. I just learned that it's because that's what microjig calls those clamps. It looks like a good setup.

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On 7/8/2022 at 10:54 AM, Chestnut said:

Can someone answer me why my sled is always an inch to small for the panel i need to cut? I've made mine bigger a couple times but it always seems to be an inch too small....

Nice sled. I always wondered why this dovetail clamp systems were called matchfit. I just learned that it's because that's what microjig calls those clamps. It looks like a good setup.

One of the great mysteries of the ages :D.  I imagine the slots could be modified (or maybe not?) to work with track saw clamps one might already have.  My Makita track clamps do not fit but, I have a few Matchfit so I haven't thought about modifying.

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