candle wax


outofstepper

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Greets all.. this is one of those "little things in life" posts..

Today I finally got around to making a shooting board.

Following suit on Shannon's HTS projects, I got some candle

wax and rubbed the slide down. World of difference.

With candle in hand, I recalled a passing tip (from Shannon) on

waxing the plane soles. The comment couldn't have been more than

that simple sentence.. and I never thought much about it in the

shop.

So I tried some on my jointer.. holy smokes! I don't even have

to push the jointer anymore.. heck I have to do my best to stop it.

And this whole time I've been hung up on my irons not being sharp

enough.. or my angle not right for the task on hand.. and this whole

time its been friction!

Why isn't this one of those things you hear a lot more about?

Why didn't my planes come with a stick of wax?

Based on what I just 'learned' .. it turns out my planes are crazy

sharp.. and the wood isn't as hard as I thought it was.

Are there downsides?

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Are there downsides?

Only if you use the ones that your better half keeps for those romantic evenings.

I've heard of applying it on the shooting board but the bottom of planes is new to me.

David Charlesworth, Rob Cosman and Christopher Schwarz use a hard (candle like) wax. Roy Underhill uses tallow - well he would wouldn't he?

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Only if you use the ones that your better half keeps for those romantic evenings.

You really think she'll notice the flat spots? :D

now all my planes smell like flowers.

cormier -- you're why I posted. let us know how it works for you.

what I'm really wondering is just how many other 'obvious' tips there are out there

like this one.

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Shhh . . . it's a conspiracy . . . .

Someone asked the question of whether wax inhibits glue in joints or finishes, and no one could think of a time when it did. It doesn't really help when the surface area subject to friction is negligible, such as on a spoke shave or chamfering an edge with a block plane. But with a jointer, or even just a smoother, it makes a serious difference. It can really help with hand saws too.

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I also use a chunk of paraffin. I drilled a hole through it at the top, and it hangs on a nail on the wall next to my plane till so it's always handy and doesn't get lost. Also it has no odor like a candle would. It's also handy for using on screw threads. You can find it in any hardware store, or anyplace they sell canning supplies.

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The problem with these "obvious" tips is that they got that moniker by being "obvious" to someone somewhere. This makes them hard to compile and even think of in the first place since they are so obvious. Every time I come away from a lecture from a master excited, it is usually about something "obvious".

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If you have old candles around the house to use that's great, but if you're going to go out and buy something for this purpose, just go buy a box of paraffin wax from the grocery store. I got a 1lb box that has four "bricks" in it for $2.49. That's enough to last quite a while. Gulf Wax @ Walmart

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  • 2 weeks later...

I was at a Woodcraft getting some supplies, and they happened to have a small box of beeswax sticks at the counter. I remembered hearing about using wax on the soles of planes before, and this triggered the memory. I bought a stick to give it a try. The first time I used it, my smoother nearly flew out my hands! Funny how something that small can make such a difference.

Jonathan

======================================

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i use johnson's paste wax on my jointer, bandsaw table, table saw, and planer bed. am i missing something? is paraffin wax better for this purpose? i can't imagine getting it much slicker than i do with johnson's.

Nick, that's what I use on my machine beds too, but if the consensus says that parifin is better....Although I don't like the thought of needing an electric buffer per Dan.

Tim

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  • 4 weeks later...

I was always told to use a beeswax or a parafin wax and not to use the scented colored candle or anything that was described as haveing "silicates / silicons" becuase is can negativly affect the tool but , i could never find anything that actually said what the negative things are, i've personally used all kinds , from natural beeswax to my wife's yankee candle , i havent noticed a difference.

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there are several different types of wax out there. Paraffin and Beeswax are the most common types of wax sold in the broadest of areas, but there are other types as well. I'd avoid using candles, unless you can verify that they are "pure" from one type or another, because of the various things that get added to the wax.

One common additive is Stearite (don't quote me on the spelling), which slows down the melting of the candles. This is, from what little research I've done, something that is not very good for exposed metal, such as your plane irons. Not to mention the dyes or scents that are added are not always from an oil source.

There's also gel wax / candles, and soy wax / candles. I haven't tried these on the blades yet, and I have no intentions of doing so any time soon.

For those who don't want to just go get a block of paraffin (available in the canning sections of most grocery stores, also available from many craft shops), you can look into the emergency candles. A package of ten will usually be cheaper than a pound of paraffin, perhaps even around a mere dollar. And since these are emergency candles, they don't have things like dyes or scents.

I definately second the idea of storing either your wax or your candles (for waxing purposes) inside a container, such as a plastic tote or box as mentioned earlier.

By the way, most candles are created at about 170 degrees Farenheit. However, waxes melt at a much lower temperature. Sometimes, all it takes is sunshine through a window to cause them to melt.

(found a link with basic information on the wax types... I apologize about it being for candle makers, but it has some information that might help the curious.)Candle Wax types chart

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