BillyJack Posted November 22, 2022 Author Report Share Posted November 22, 2022 First thing to do is decide the dust collection. For me I went with standard 3" pipe. I first layed out a triangle, measuring the 3" coupler sizes and marked my holes. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BillyJack Posted November 23, 2022 Author Report Share Posted November 23, 2022 I know that I will add a 3/4 bottom and what ever is left after the coupling hole I'll clip that section off making the hub as small as possible. You can use a jigsaw.scroll saw or hole saw to make the hole. I suggest making it tight so assembly makes it easier when it comes time.. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BillyJack Posted November 23, 2022 Author Report Share Posted November 23, 2022 At this point you have a hub. You'll now need to make a top to fit the hub. You'll again need a 3 + or - hole to take the 3" coupler in the top piece. This hole is where router debris will be ejected from the machine to you Dust collector from the the top of the router table.... 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BillyJack Posted November 25, 2022 Author Report Share Posted November 25, 2022 Here looking again at the hub. You will need to 3 bolts to secure the top/lid to the DC. You want this removable in case debris clogs the opening. This can easily hapen on a raised panel bit. Nothings perfect so you want to think ahead. You want to put the new top we just made on top. Careful to position it were needed. Sometimes hot glue or tape could be used to hold the piece in place. You can hand drill this or use a drill press to drill through #1 the top pice and #2 the hub.... You now want a drill bit the size required a hanger bolt. You want it long enough to secure it into the hub and yet long enough to stick above the upper top plate. Once drilled you can install the hanger bolts. There are many ways to is tall hanger bolts. I won't a dress this at this time. With the hanger bolts installed. The tip plate with the DC port hole installed on top,and the hanger bolts penetrating through the top with enough threads showing you can now install the nuts. In my case I used black plastic brass thread nuts... 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted November 25, 2022 Report Share Posted November 25, 2022 @BillyJack, did you do anything special to make those hanger bolts hold well in the particleboard edge? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BillyJack Posted November 25, 2022 Author Report Share Posted November 25, 2022 I just pre- drilled and put two nuts on. There not under any pressure, just ease of use and lock down.. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BillyJack Posted November 26, 2022 Author Report Share Posted November 26, 2022 Here you can see I have installed a bottom. It has 3 places to mount. I don't recommend threaded inserts but rather bolt through the top. You can use threaded inserts but beware they have a tendency to raise the grain we installed stalled which could deform the top. So be careful. You can see were on the second picture high lighted in hot pink.. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BillyJack Posted November 27, 2022 Author Report Share Posted November 27, 2022 So here we have a 1/4×1/4 piece that has been added on for a blast gate. Once you have decided the size you can make all the blast gates at one time. The blast gates are the same for the entire cabinet. You will need three pieces for each bladt gate. You will need 12 left/rights and 6 bottom pieces...Just remember to allow for paint. Try not to get carried away with over doing the paint and making it too thick. They will have trouble sliding. Remember sometimes less is more...Unless you have a heavy hand.. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BillyJack Posted November 28, 2022 Author Report Share Posted November 28, 2022 So with the 1/4 applied, the blast gate made to size a back plate was installed. A threaded insert is installed in the back of the blast gate housing 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BillyJack Posted November 29, 2022 Author Report Share Posted November 29, 2022 Here you can see I've added the front cover to the blast gate.I also used a threaded insert which a thumb screw. So there are two threaded inserts in parallel so I can raise the blast gate and hold it up so it doesn't block the DC hole. I used 1/2 Baltic Birch for this. Wait....... did I hear applause for use of Baltic birch... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BillyJack Posted November 29, 2022 Author Report Share Posted November 29, 2022 As you can see the baffle with couplers. Another coupler will be added later for exhaust from the router chips to there final destination... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted November 30, 2022 Report Share Posted November 30, 2022 It looks like your gates do not pass thru the top. Ever have chips block the grooves and keep a gate from closing? I see pass-thru designs meant to avoid this possibility, but wondered if they were really necessary. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BillyJack Posted November 30, 2022 Author Report Share Posted November 30, 2022 They’re blocked to increase pull at the source. Theres enough pull as you close one gate to clear its path before another is opened. I’ve never had a problem unless I had another gate at another tool open. My DC can only handle two open gates at a time correctly. If I’m running raised panels I will sometimes close the bottom port to increase draw on the top to keep the cutter clean, especially with MDF… 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BillyJack Posted November 30, 2022 Author Report Share Posted November 30, 2022 Here we have the top for the baffle. I enjoy the scroll saw, but I bet I haven't used it twice in 10 years.. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post BillyJack Posted December 1, 2022 Author Popular Post Report Share Posted December 1, 2022 When I was designing the router table I tried to keep safety in mind. I went to the farm and garden supply and purchase several tractor axle U bolts I found they worked perfectly in my setup⬇ 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BillyJack Posted December 2, 2022 Author Report Share Posted December 2, 2022 As you can see... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BillyJack Posted December 3, 2022 Author Report Share Posted December 3, 2022 I’ve got to drag this table out just to get the router bits out. I need to send them in for sharpening. At one time I used a Jacobs routercollet. It worked but scary...I finally removed it.. Anybody still using Jacobs router collet? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted December 3, 2022 Report Share Posted December 3, 2022 What was scary about it? I've never seen one in action. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BillyJack Posted December 3, 2022 Author Report Share Posted December 3, 2022 I used in the router table with a raised panel bit. After a few panels it came out. Back in the drawer it went.. luckily, I always have these bits incased for this reason.. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BillyJack Posted December 4, 2022 Author Report Share Posted December 4, 2022 The trickiest part for me was combining everything in a short space. The fence lock down and supports.. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BillyJack Posted December 5, 2022 Author Report Share Posted December 5, 2022 Once the fence plate has been squared into position , i used threaded inserts to attach it.. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BillyJack Posted December 6, 2022 Author Report Share Posted December 6, 2022 In these pictures you can see I've cut out for DC and have bolted it to the table. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted December 6, 2022 Report Share Posted December 6, 2022 What is the total adjustment range of the fences, @BillyJack? From the photos, I'd guess around 3", maybe a bit more? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BillyJack Posted December 8, 2022 Author Report Share Posted December 8, 2022 Not much without removing the two others. It’s more designed to work from the bearing, this is why I still have another router table. I use a router in the table saw for cabinetry as well.. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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