nealaron Posted August 14, 2010 Report Share Posted August 14, 2010 I've had a Sawstop Professional Cabinet saw for about 6 months now and really like it. My previous saw was a 30 year old Rockwell contractor saw, so this was a huge step up for me. The fit and finish are great, very precise, etc. I have never had a real accident with that tool, though part of that is dumb luck - I've made many stupid mistakes. But I like the idea that if I do screw up it will only cost me for a new brake module and a blade. I had a brake activation the other day that might be of interest to other Sawstop owners. I was cross-cutting some bamboo for a privacy screen and transitioned from dry to freshly cut material. As soon as the blade cut 1/8" into the first "wet" piece the blade disappeared. Apparently, fresh bamboo has enough moisture and the right mineral content to fool the computer. I contacted sawstop and had never had this happen before, so the paid for my replacement cartridge in exchange for the spent one, so they could retrieve the data stored on it. Presumably, they will use it to try to prevent future accidental (non-skin) activations. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beechwood Chip Posted August 14, 2010 Report Share Posted August 14, 2010 But I like the idea that if I do screw up it will only cost me for a new brake module and a blade. I also have a saw stop, but haven't had a chance to use it a lot. So far, I love it! You still need to worry about kick-back! Don't get sloppy and expect the saw stop to save you! If you are cutting material that isn't thoroughly dry, you can do a test cut in test mode to avoid losing a brake cartridge and blade. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Renzo Posted August 14, 2010 Report Share Posted August 14, 2010 When in doubt wouldn't it be a good idea to turn off the saw stop tech? I considered a saw stop and two things made me get something else. One was the price, and the other was that i figured i wouldnt be quite so vigilant, thinking meh nothing can happen so i'll risk this x type of cut. That's just me though. I'm always looking for the easy way out That being said they seem like beautiful really well built saws. At least they send you a new brake. Did they pony up for a new blade as well? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nealaron Posted August 14, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 14, 2010 You are absolutely right, you shouldn't get sloppy regardless of the consequences or lack of them. I am as vigilant as I was before getting this saw. I was never one for using guards before. My contractor saw had a crumby one that was unusable after a few years, and the saw never had a riving knife. I used push sticks and home made jigs all the time, though, and my fingers were never close to the blade. The Sawstop has a great riving knife and the guard works well. I use it a lot and have hooked up my shop vac to its dust port. As for price, I saved up for a while to get it - it wasn't easy - but I knew I wanted the best I could get and the Unisaw was around the same price. The safety feature was the tipping point. I have used it in bypass mode a couple time when cutting aluminum and wet wood, but it never occurred to me that bamboo would trigger it. It's not that wet and wasn't mentioned in the liturature. I had been cutting dry bamboo..... It's quite a shock when the module activates. There's a loud clunk and no blade - it is so fast. Reset is easy. Removing the blade from the aluminum block isn't. That blade is in the resharpen pile with a note to check for flat and for tooth integrity. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nealaron Posted August 14, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 14, 2010 They did tell me the new brake was a one time only thing (unless it activates from cutting skin). As for a new blade, I got 2 free blades when I purchased the saw, so would have felt greedy asking for one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drallred Posted August 14, 2010 Report Share Posted August 14, 2010 When my dad and I were setting up our shop, we looked at all the table saws at the local woodworking shops, after getting all the information and a DVD on the Sawstop system, my mother said the final word on the purchase she said something like, "Get the Sawstop even if it costs more if you have an accident it would be worth it". Well we got it and it has been great, I had to make a few minor settings on the saw but overall it cuts just fine for what we use it for. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sac Posted August 14, 2010 Report Share Posted August 14, 2010 They did tell me the new brake was a one time only thing (unless it activates from cutting skin). As for a new blade, I got 2 free blades when I purchased the saw, so would have felt greedy asking for one. So let me get this straight, if you hit a nail or something that trips the brake, you have to pay for it.. If it hits your skin, the replace it for free? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaulMarcel Posted August 14, 2010 Report Share Posted August 14, 2010 Yes, if you get a 'save', you can send the brake in because they want to pull the data from the brake. In exchange for taking the time to ship it to them, they give you a free brake. They use the data to improve the detection algorithm. In strange cases, too, they'll ask for the brake to improve detection and eliminate false positives. So on the one hand, some companies come out with new drills with incompatible battery packs every year but no new features, or this company actively going after field data to improve the product. I know which I prefer. If you hit a nail, it's your own fault. You'd say, "but I don't have to pay anything if I hit a nail with my saw" and it's true, but this saw is decidedly different and has one simple thing to watch out for in exchange for added safety. Also, those little metal staples box stores use to tack on a product code to material won't set it off; it takes something significant enough to change the capacitance of the blade rapidly. Though, for the SawStop readers here, I blogged about a trivial modification to your brake that can keep staples that stick from causing a false positive. I have a small $19 metal detection wand by the saw and scan questionable wood. I've had the wand much longer than the saw since I do the same before popping it through the planer cuz nicked blades suck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nealaron Posted August 14, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 14, 2010 Paul-Marcel is right and it does reflect well on the company. My understanding, though, is that hitting a nail or bit of aluminum would not trigger the brake. They have refined the system to the point that the conductivity of flesh - moisture and mineral content - is what sets it off. That's why simply wet wood won't set it off, but wet pressure treated wood will. Of course, I can't imagine cutting wet PT lumber on my new cabinet saw. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Domer Posted February 9, 2011 Report Share Posted February 9, 2011 You are wrong abut wet wood not setting off the brake. I had a piece of plywood sitting on the garage floor and did not notice one end was wet and it did set off the brake. Domer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick2cd Posted February 10, 2011 Report Share Posted February 10, 2011 I also have a saw stop, but haven't had a chance to use it a lot. So far, I love it! You still need to worry about kick-back! Don't get sloppy and expect the saw stop to save you! If you are cutting material that isn't thoroughly dry, you can do a test cut in test mode to avoid losing a brake cartridge and blade. Beech, how do you cut in test mode? and how do you know if the wood passes or fails in test mode? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChetlovesMer Posted February 10, 2011 Report Share Posted February 10, 2011 You are wrong abut wet wood not setting off the brake. I had a piece of plywood sitting on the garage floor and did not notice one end was wet and it did set off the brake. Domer Funny, I've tried really hard to wet wood and get a false positive and was unable to do so. A buddy of mine came over and offered to pay for a new brake for me to see the SawStop work. So I put in an old blade and then ran wet wood through it. I couldn't get it to fire. We soaked wood in water, couldn't get it to fire. We tried green treated wood, couldn't get it to fire. We stopped short of turning the hose on it. We were about to try aluminum when I got nervous because the blade I had in there was totally inappropiate for aluminum. So, finally I appeased my friend went and got a hot dog (Actually it was a Johnsonville Brat). Worked perfectly, he bought me a new brake cartridge and I bought him lunch. I should have just cooked the brat for him. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beechwood Chip Posted February 10, 2011 Report Share Posted February 10, 2011 Beech, how do you cut in test mode? and how do you know if the wood passes or fails in test mode? I've never had to do it, but the procedure is in the manual if I ever need to. The status code is on page 46 (officially page 44 but the PDF counts the cover and the title page). The saw will give a "contact detected" code if it detects something that would have triggered the brake. The procedure for running the saw without ("bypassing") the brake is on page 57 (officially page 55). It's designed so you can't do it by accident, so there are a couple steps where you have to wait one second. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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