Perplexing Problem


woodhack

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We are having one of the wettest seasons ever here in Socal and I've had a problem with surface rust on all of my planes. I keep the soles and all exposed metal waxed so the rust comes off real easy with 4/0 steel wool but I can't figure out why it keeps returning. Is this just something I'll have to live with or is there something else I could do to keep the rust away.

BTW I don't have this problem with the TS top or my jointer beds or fences and I use the same wax that I use on the planes. (Renaissance)

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Presumably you keep your planes in some sort of container?

There's propbably enough air current to keep yourcast iron surfaces reasonably dry, but if you keep the planes in a cabinet you're trapping the moist air in there too. Of all the 'dehumidifying' solutions I've read about, the simplest seems to be to keep a few handfuls of uncooked rice in a tin with the planes. The rice will absorb the humidity, and the process is reversable - just heat up the rice to drive off the humidity.

HTH

John

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Presumably you keep your planes in some sort of container?

There's propbably enough air current to keep yourcast iron surfaces reasonably dry, but if you keep the planes in a cabinet you're trapping the moist air in there too. Of all the 'dehumidifying' solutions I've read about, the simplest seems to be to keep a few handfuls of uncooked rice in a tin with the planes. The rice will absorb the humidity, and the process is reversable - just heat up the rice to drive off the humidity.

HTH

John

You are correct, John. I started storing them in a tool chest after my Stanley #4 fell off of a shelf during a minor earthquake.

Thanks for the rice tip! I'll let you know if it works.

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You are correct, John. I started storing them in a tool chest after my Stanley #4 fell off of a shelf during a minor earthquake.

Thanks for the rice tip! I'll let you know if it works.

Also, start collecting all those packets that come in containers that feel like little bb's. Keep a handful of those in a closed drawer with any metal and they do the same thing as the rice.

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You are correct, John. I started storing them in a tool chest after my Stanley #4 fell off of a shelf during a minor earthquake.

Thanks for the rice tip! I'll let you know if it works.

If it doesn't, just do a search for Risotto... Probably better kept in a closed cloth bag - no accidental spillages.

Also, start collecting all those packets that come in containers that feel like little bb's. Keep a handful of those in a closed drawer with any metal and they do the same thing as the rice.

Feel like what? How do you know that? :blink: They're called silica gel desiccants. :rolleyes: Also reversible, just microwave now and again, or once in a while if you use metric units.

John

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I agree, rice works pretty great.

Also, Lee Valley sells something to take care of that exact problem.

Lee Valley

Yet another option is a small item that is likely sold at tackle or gun shops. Its a small plastic case with what looks like foam inside. It prevents hooks, gun parts, etc from rusting while they are in their respective storage containers.

Hope this info helps.

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Also, start collecting all those packets that come in containers that feel like little bb's. Keep a handful of those in a closed drawer with any metal and they do the same thing as the rice.

Vic, I always eat the contents of those packages even though it clearly states on the package that it's not food. No F@#$ing tool company is going to tell me what's food and what isn't.

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I'm curious if you have mill marks on the surfaces that are rusting so much faster than the others. Even premium planes have mill marks on the sole, albiet finer ones that are easier to remove. You'll have a difficult time getting a decent coat of wax inside the mill marks and they also significantly increase the surface area that can oxidize. Even here in dry Arizona, my bandsaw table always had a bit of a 'brass' tone to it; the mill marks were more pronounced than most planes, but still there. Once I flattened them out with a sander, it has been a mirror ever since. Other bonus, less drag.

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Vic, I always eat the contents of those packages even though it clearly states on the package that it's not food. No F@#$ing tool company is going to tell me what's food and what isn't.

You too? I like to tip up bottles of Boeshield T-9 and suck on the nozzle like Miracle Whip. As a topping for tasty dessicant treats it's probably toxic as all get out and will only take forty years off your life span, but I've heard it works wonders on iron and steel surfaces for moist climates too. I got a can from Lee Valley I think, but I think you can get it from Sears I noticed.

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You too? I like to tip up bottles of Boeshield T-9 and suck on the nozzle like Miracle Whip. As a topping for tasty dessicant treats it's probably toxic as all get out and will only take forty years off your life span, but I've heard it works wonders on iron and steel surfaces for moist climates too. I got a can from Lee Valley I think, but I think you can get it from Sears I noticed.

MMM...you guys got my mouth just watering!! LOL

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I always eat the contents of those packages and I like to tip up bottles of Boeshield T-9 and suck the nozzle like Miracle Whip- "Here lies Marty and Jonathryn, good men but not smart men" comes to mind :P

There are products for storing campers and such that would also work great. I know Menards carries some. They come in little containers that you just open up and set them where you need and they have ones that you hang up on curtain rods (or a dowel in a cabinet). Just a thought.

Nate

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I always eat the contents of those packages and I like to tip up bottles of Boeshield T-9 and suck the nozzle like Miracle Whip- "Here lies Marty and Jonathryn, good men but not smart men" comes to mind :P

There are products for storing campers and such that would also work great. I know Menards carries some. They come in little containers that you just open up and set them where you need and they have ones that you hang up on curtain rods (or a dowel in a cabinet). Just a thought.

Nate

Are they as tasty, though? I'm just really glad to live in a desert. I've never experienced rust unless I've left something in the very infrequent rain.

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I'm curious if you have mill marks on the surfaces that are rusting so much faster than the others. Even premium planes have mill marks on the sole, albiet finer ones that are easier to remove. You'll have a difficult time getting a decent coat of wax inside the mill marks and they also significantly increase the surface area that can oxidize. Even here in dry Arizona, my bandsaw table always had a bit of a 'brass' tone to it; the mill marks were more pronounced than most planes, but still there. Once I flattened them out with a sander, it has been a mirror ever since. Other bonus, less drag.

That's what happened the first time I had rust on my planes and I spent the afternoon getting the soles as smooth as I could (10000 grit waterstone). I waxed them up and found more rust after our latest storm so now I've got them stored with a nice plate of rice. If that doesn't work the cilica gel is my next stop.

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