Simple box


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I would like to make a simple box for this oil stone

I resawed this timber quite a while ago and it now has a decent warp in it

It is much larger than I need, photos shown for size , do I need to run it through the thicknesser or can I just use it as is?

Can someone point me in the right direction to making a box ? I Think I'd like to mitre the corners but have no idea about inserting a base ( or top for that matter)

bow.jpg

width.jpg

oil stone.jpg

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There are so many ways of making a box. 
I would think about a finger joint (box joint) box with dados 6mm from the top and bottom on the inside and make floating top/ bottom panels then cut the top from the box put hinges and some sort of finish. 
check out wood magazine.com box plans 

or a google search wooden box plans pdf 
you’ll find many ideas, videos on how to make boxes. Good luck let us know what you come up with.

as far as the wood I think I would use it as is.
Cutting your parts out of that material. You’ll loose most of the warping just by having it in smaller pieces.  

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6 minutes ago, wtnhighlander said:

You might try this style box by our forum benefactor:

Or this variation, that seems a bit more common:

 

Adjust the dimensions to fit your stone. Cutting parts from that wider stock will reduce the apparent warp.

 

Great idea.   

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On 1/8/2024 at 1:02 AM, William R said:

There are so many ways of making a box. 
I would think about a finger joint (box joint) box with dados 6mm from the top and bottom on the inside and make floating top/ bottom panels then cut the top from the box put hinges and some sort of finish. 
check out wood magazine.com box plans 

or a google search wooden box plans pdf 
you’ll find many ideas, videos on how to make boxes. Good luck let us know what you come up with.

as far as the wood I think I would use it as is.
Cutting your parts out of that material. You’ll loose most of the warping just by having it in smaller pieces.  

thank you, I was hoping this would be the case, would you recommend cutting the sides from the middle piece of the stock ( flattest part) ?

On 1/8/2024 at 1:06 AM, wtnhighlander said:

You might try this style box by our forum benefactor:

Or this variation, that seems a bit more common:

 

Adjust the dimensions to fit your stone. Cutting parts from that wider stock will reduce the apparent warp.

 

thanks I'll check those out, I have watched a lot of his videos but didn't know he was associated with this forum

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On 1/7/2024 at 1:57 PM, oldman_pottering said:

thanks I'll check those out, I have watched a lot of his videos but didn't know he was associated with this forum

As I understand things, this forum was created by Marc to support a community that grew up around a podcast he has been doing with some colleagues for the last decade plus: https://woodtalkshow.com/

 

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I’m m not sure exactly how I’d go about cutting up the stock for making the sides. I don’t have it in hand it’s hard to work from a photo. I think I would look at what I’m making and how I want the wood grain to work. By looking at the photo of your stock I’m sure you can pull everything together with clamps. (Kinda massage the wood to your  will.) I don’t know.  Your the artist here make art. Good luck. 

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On 1/16/2024 at 11:16 AM, wtnhighlander said:

@oldman_pottering, I'd say you did rather well! That's a nice looking box.

Thanks mate, on closer inspection I got quite a bit of tear out ( not sure if it's the hardwood or my blade or a combo )

On 1/16/2024 at 11:22 AM, Coop said:

I think it looks pretty cool. Now, run that sharpening stone thru the tablesaw and shorten it 1/2”, making it fit the box and sharpening the blade in one pass! 

Thanks mate, running the stone through the saw blade to kill 2 birds with 1 stone ( yes....that's a pun) is genius idea :D

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That looks great. There may be some issues that you have mentioned but that's no big deal. Most people won't see them. I'm always jealous of the lumber that you aussies have access to.

I'd get the blade sharpened and cleaned a good sharp blade helps a lot with tear out. Cleaning can have a larger impact than you may think start there. For cleaning i use a mild household cleaner and warm-hot water. The wood pitch melts off with a swipe of a nylon brush or 2. Additionally a zero clearance insert will help a lot. Any time i make a critical cut that is at risk for tear out i make sure the fence and plate are my zero clearance ones.

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On 1/17/2024 at 1:15 AM, Chestnut said:

That looks great. There may be some issues that you have mentioned but that's no big deal. Most people won't see them. I'm always jealous of the lumber that you aussies have access to.

thanks mate, funny about the timber..............I like the fact that you guys get so much contrasting wood, I'm always reading about oak,cherry and walnut.

I need to research more here and I'm thinking that purchasing some pre milled stuff might go a long way to helping me learn, might let me get straight into the project without mucking around with milling.

I'd get the blade sharpened and cleaned a good sharp blade helps a lot with tear out. Cleaning can have a larger impact than you may think start there. For cleaning i use a mild household cleaner and warm-hot water. The wood pitch melts off with a swipe of a nylon brush or 2. Additionally a zero clearance insert will help a lot. Any time i make a critical cut that is at risk for tear out i make sure the fence and plate are my zero clearance ones.

I have seen somewhere around the internets people speaking of the importance of keeping the blade clean ( next clean this blade gets will be the first :rolleyes:)

I am using a zero clearance plate

thanks for your help 

 

 

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