Mortiser

[mainewood]

Hi guys.

Did a search of old posts and didn’t find one that addressed the issues of Mortiser directly so thought I would post one. If I missed a threat can someone direct me to it.

I need to get a Mortiser for my shop and I don’t know what to do.

I’ve read a bunch of reviews and like many things in life the more your willing to pay the better the machine and more options you get. But the question is it worth it.

Looking at the mid-range benchtop model, say the Powermatic PM 701 $480 vs a Floorstanding machine say the Powermatic 719 $1150 or the General 75-075 $1150. It doesn't have to be these machines but just using as an example.

My plan ( and we all know how plans are ) is to cut a fair amount of mortises, mostly strait ones not angles mortises. Getting the better clamping system on the Floorstanding modes, is it worth more then double the $? I want it to be relatively easy to set, and make consistent.

Have people used the mid range set ups and had good luck? How is the clamping systems?

Their is a good article in the 2009 aug FWW but it still leaves lots of questions.

Thanks for the ideas

[Tobbe Arnesson]

I know it's not directly what you've been looking for but perhaps worth considering: http://woodgears.ca/slot_mortiser/index.html

[Darnell Hagen]

In my opinion a sliding, clamping X-Y table on a mortiser is essential.

I've used both, and would never go back.

[Onboard]

You might want to look at Marc’s video on his free site (TWW). It’s 30 minutes long. While it’s more about the use of a hollow chisel mortiser, Marc does have a short discussion on the differences between the bench top versus floor model HCM’s (start 3:37). Just click here.

[Tobbe Arnesson]

This page is also really interesting: http://woodgears.ca/mortise/hollow_chisel.html

"Mortising (even on a proper hollow chisel mortiser) is slower than slot mortising. The resulting mortise is less accurate because of all the force involved, and there's the problem with having to make shorter tenons or clean up the bottom of it. So I conclude that it makes more sense to build a slot mortiser than a hollow chisel mortiser."

[mainewood]

You might want to look at Marc’s video on his free site (TWW). It’s 30 minutes long. While it’s more about the use of a hollow chisel mortiser, Marc does have a short discussion on the differences between the bench top versus floor model HCM’s (start 3:37). Just click here.

Yes, your right Marc's video is a good one. It tells alot about the diff. tools. I just wonder if it's worth the extra $600 or not for the better clamping system (along with the more HP) I'm more worried about the clamping system. Don't want to make something out of nothing if I can get away with the cheeper model but...From watching some of Marc's other video's of the shop, it seems like his floor model mortiser just sits there and gathers dust.

[TheNehlsEnd]

If its a daily procedure and the floor space isn't an issue then I would opt for a floor model. Floor models tend to be heavier and more stable with less vibration to them.

If space is at a premium and you will only mortise once or twice a week at most I would suggest the bench model. Since mortisers are dedicated to a single task, you should be able to add your own features you want or need. As Darnell stated the use of an x-y table is handy to have.

When I was making this decision myself, my first thoughts were how much space I had to work with. My second was on how often would I use this machine. Since space is a premium for me the floor model wasn't an option. I then thought about a bench model and how often I would use it. For my use it would be lucky if it would be used once a month. My decision next was the attachment model for my drill press. For as much as I mortise this works fine for me.

Like the table saw, whether its a floor or bench model you'll find what upgrades you will want to add. Hope this helps, as to which one to get my first choice is always floor model. But reality always rules the decision for me.

[outofstepper]

This is a little out there.. but I know in europe these seem to use

chain mortisers -- I think the chisel mortiser is almost considered

a toy. I could be wrong.. but have a look at one of these things:

http://www.macchine-legno.com/it/4908-cavatrice-catena.html

[Onboard]

I think the key thoughts are, cutting a large number of mortises as a routine, large pieces of wood, very hard woodand and, as Greg reminds us, much lower vibration. Marc also mentions the ability of setting the floor models at an angle for angled mortises, but you said you won’t be doing this. Also, the handle on the floor models give you greater leverage. You said: “…it seems like his floor model mortiser just sits there and gathers dust.” I think it’s important for you to decide if this would happen to whatever you purchased.

I don’t know if you are a do it yourselfer but Tobbe’s links to Matthias Wandel's excellent site are something to consider. Also, there are a lot of different ways of creating mortise and tenons. If your doing wedged through tenons, then squared mortise and tenons would be the way to go, but some woodworkers put “fake” through tenons on the outside. Did I say that?

[Southwood]

I know it is not the model you are after, but take a look at the Harbor Freight model. It can be had reasonable with the 20% off coupon. I have had one for quite a while and it has worked great. Takes a little work to get it right but for the price, I can do some work.

[b33tl3]

I have been looking at the Steel City bench-top. I won;t need a floor model and this one has gotten good review. I notices the Woodcraft model looks a lot like Steel City.

[dwacker]

Have you thought about the Laguna Vway mortiser for right at $1000 it beats the hollow chisel mortisers for ease of use and accuracy. You can use solid tenons or floating like a domino either way they are easy. Ive had one for years and it retired my freestanding powermatic all together.

Don