sbarton22 Posted October 10, 2011 Report Share Posted October 10, 2011 I would like to solicit ideas for how to make a joint where 3 pieces come together at the same location...all 3 are 90 degrees to the other, like an X,Y,Z axis. If it were just 2, I might go with a half-lap. Jamming the 3rd piece in there seems to end up with an end to face grain situation. I think there must be some through tennon or sliding dovetail thing, but I've never attempted anything like that so I can't picture it in my head. thanks in advance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jHop Posted October 10, 2011 Report Share Posted October 10, 2011 haunched tennon? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beechwood Chip Posted October 10, 2011 Report Share Posted October 10, 2011 +1 on the haunched tennon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sbarton22 Posted October 10, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 10, 2011 Ok, I think I have the skills to try this. What is the purpose of the haunch? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rmac Posted October 10, 2011 Report Share Posted October 10, 2011 The haunch lets you put two tenons in one board without having them interfere with each other. Check out the 4th post in this thread for a picture: http://woodtalkonlin...rtise-how-deep/ -- Russ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sbarton22 Posted October 10, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 10, 2011 Oh, I see. I thought you were just talking about the 3rd piece. Ok, this sounds interesting. Do my mortise cuts touch? As in, when I insert the tenons, I could actually be gluing those together as well as the walls of the mortised piece? Does that weaken the joint? I'm wondering how much wood I need to leave if the mortise doesn't touch. This is really helpful! Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beechwood Chip Posted October 10, 2011 Report Share Posted October 10, 2011 The mortices touch, and the tenons touch when they are inserted. The strength comes from the glue joint between the sides of the tenons and mortices. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sbarton22 Posted October 10, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 10, 2011 Perfect. I get it. Now I'm amped to give it a shot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan S Posted October 11, 2011 Report Share Posted October 11, 2011 How about a three way miter ? http://www.finewoodworking.com/SkillsAndTechniques/SkillsAndTechniquesPDF.aspx?id=2905 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sbarton22 Posted October 11, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 11, 2011 Ok, I looked at what stock I have available for this little project. (I'm making a small photo tent to shoot pens and cutting boards). It looks like 1x2s might be the best use of materials. With that said, what if I make 2 half-lap style frames and 2 pieces connecting them.... In that case, would doweling the cross members be a decent connection? I have some hardwood dowel and I have some fluted dowels. Does this sound like crazy drunk talk or will it be strong enough? My mentor taught me not to use dowels in an cross grain solution because shrinkage will eventually casue the joint to weaken. I can also do a biscuit if that is a better joint. I love the original idea, but Semper Gumpy...always flexible.....you know how it goes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rmac Posted October 11, 2011 Report Share Posted October 11, 2011 With that said, what if I make 2 half-lap style frames and 2 pieces connecting them.... In that case, would doweling the cross members be a decent connection? I have some hardwood dowel and I have some fluted dowels. Does this sound like crazy drunk talk or will it be strong enough? My mentor taught me not to use dowels in an cross grain solution because shrinkage will eventually casue the joint to weaken. I guess I shoulda asked what you were making in the beginning. You don't need a lot of strength for a photo tent, and it's not like you're trying to build something that's supposed to last fifty or a hundred years. So yes, dowels would be fine for joining the cross pieces to the ends. Screws would work too, and allow you to take the thing apart for storage. In fact, unless you're just looking for a woodworking project, I would forget about all the joinery problems and just make the thing out of PVC pipe. Get a few of these fittings and a few scraps of pipe and you can have your photo tent ready to go in about five minutes. -- Russ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dcustoms Posted October 11, 2011 Report Share Posted October 11, 2011 How about a three way miter ? http://www.finewoodw...DF.aspx?id=2905 I totally want to make a table like that now! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sbarton22 Posted October 11, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 11, 2011 Russ-- I thought about the PVC route. It didn't seem like much fun to build when I could take the moment to learn something new. I suppose you are right, though. I could have it up and running in a flash. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skunkeye Posted October 11, 2011 Report Share Posted October 11, 2011 I totally want to make a table like that now! Google Rick Christopherson's Festool Domino Manual, it has directions on how to do a 3 way mitre with a locking parson's joint. Very cool. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jHop Posted October 11, 2011 Report Share Posted October 11, 2011 Locking parson's joint? now I'm going to have to do some research... Using 1x2s, and I don't know if this idea I have is a locking parson's joint or not, I'd go with the half laps, but notch the inner corner of the two "flat" faces. On the intersecting frame member, I'd to a stub tennon to fit that notch. (For grins and giggles, I'd go to a wedged tennon, a` la the "nomadic furniture"/ Shaker design...) Off to research a locking parson's joint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rmac Posted October 11, 2011 Report Share Posted October 11, 2011 I thought about the PVC route. It didn't seem like much fun to build when I could take the moment to learn something new. Okay, so you are looking for a woodworking exercise. In that case, your idea of the half-lapped frames with doweled-in stretchers between them would work fine. An alternative to the dowels (that might be a more valuable exercise) would be to cut tenons on the stretchers and put them into through mortises in the corners of the half-lapped frames. -- Russ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skunkeye Posted October 11, 2011 Report Share Posted October 11, 2011 www.waterfront-woods.com/festool/Domino_DF_500.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jHop Posted October 12, 2011 Report Share Posted October 12, 2011 Okay, so you are looking for a woodworking exercise. In that case, your idea of the half-lapped frames with doweled-in stretchers between them would work fine. An alternative to the dowels (that might be a more valuable exercise) would be to cut tenons on the stretchers and put them into through mortises in the corners of the half-lapped frames. -- Russ Sort of like this?3 way joint 1.skp 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rmac Posted October 12, 2011 Report Share Posted October 12, 2011 Sort of like this? Yeah! Actually, I was thinking that the mortise would be right in the middle of the half-lap joint, so that the tenon would sort of lock it all together. But what you've drawn would work, too, and would be easier to cut. As always, there are a million ways to skin a cat. -- Russ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brutus Posted October 12, 2011 Report Share Posted October 12, 2011 I was just researching the very same question for a set of tables I am building. The three way joint I needed had to be strong and this is what I came up with 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rmac Posted October 12, 2011 Report Share Posted October 12, 2011 That's a fancy one! -- Russ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sbarton22 Posted October 14, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 14, 2011 Sort of like this? Very cool. It locates the tenon in a better location than I was thinking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sbarton22 Posted October 14, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 14, 2011 I was just researching the very same question for a set of tables I am building. The three way joint I needed had to be strong and this is what I came up with Could those pins be floating? it might be easier to make, no? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brutus Posted October 14, 2011 Report Share Posted October 14, 2011 Could those pins be floating? it might be easier to make, no? I was thinking along the same lines. Maybe use a mortising press on both pieces and insert a walnut square peg into the holes. It would shave some time off manufacturing these joints. The picture that I posted came from a Japanese style joinery book. Search for some of the other styles that they use and you'll find some beautiful, but complex techniques. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tommun Posted March 26, 2021 Report Share Posted March 26, 2021 I have tried this in several ways because I make "Ocho Ojos de Dios " (eight eyes of God) which uses three crossed dowels as a base. Although I remember the algorithm for wrapping the yarn around the dowels, I can't remember how the dowels were notched on the first one I did back in 1969. Sometimes I just notch and cross two of the dowels; drill a hole in the center of the third dowel just shy of its diameter; cut the dowel in half at the hole; put a pin (toothpick) going through the center of the crossed dowels; drill up the core of the cut dowels the diameter of the pin, and then insert the two halves of the third dowel over the pin (using glue on the pin). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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