Wipe on Poly tips

[sbarton22]

I'm looking to finish up my last big Xmas present. I probably can't put the finish on until tomorrow at best.

With that said, I'm thinking of putting on a wipe on poly, I have never tried general finishes WOP. I tried the minwax WOP, and felt like it took forever to dry, especially the first few coats.

So, I'd like to know if anyone has any tips on:

1) Is the General finishes product better?

2) Tips so that I can lay down enough layers to build a shine in a few days?

3) Just WOP tips in general...light buffing w/ steel wool between coats? Ideas like that.

Thanks in advance!

[rmac]

I've done a lot of wipe-on finishes with Minwax fast-dry gloss poly mixed half-and-half with mineral spirits. In the summertime in Arizona, when the humidity is low and it's 90 degrees in the shop, that stuff will dry in about four hours. Right now, though, with higher humidity and temps in the 60s, it's taking "forever" for me, too.

To answer your specific questions:

1) I have no experience with General Finishes poly, so can't comment there.

2) Lower the humidity and raise the temperature. For a small project, maybe you could make some sort of tent with light bulbs inside or something. For something bigger, who knows. In either case, I'd worry about getting too carried away and starting a fire or cooking the finish.

3) For general hints, get Marc's video on the subject. It's really helpful. If you go for the download version, you can be an expert this afternoon!

-- Russ

PS: Here's a question for somebody who knows more than I do: Could you also speed the curing process by using naptha instead of mineral spirits to dilute regular poly? I've heard that naptha evaporates faster than mineral spirits, but I don't know if the poly that's left behind would cure any faster or not. Is naptha even an acceptable solvent for polyurethane? I dunno. Ace? Marc?

[dwacker]

General is very easy to use. I put on a fairly thick coat with a sponge brush. Then come back with a rag and just drag the rag over the finish to remove any bubbles, NO hand pressure. Quick scuff then recoat, after the third coat you have a pretty good build. Scuff smooth with pad and give it one last coat but on the last coat just flood on and wipe off. Top it off with a coat of wax. Drying is usually fair quick but my shop is heated and usually above 50.

Don

[AceHoleInOne]

Well isn’t this an interesting topic…running crazy this week all over the internet…I need a fast drying OIL finish… Christmas is almost here!!!!

Do I think General Finishes poly (Arm-R-Seal) is pretty darn good...YES

Now is it that darn good to pull your cookies out of the fire because a deadline is fast approaching and you need it to dry fast…NO! ummm… it depends…um…well??????

A finish is dry when it damn well pleases, based on wood type, drying conditions at your shop and climate conditions. Yep naphtha will help with the dry.

My best advice…take a picture of the piece, wrap that picture in a box and place under the tree. Don’t take any chances

I apply General Finishes Arm-R-Seal with a folded cotton rag straight from the can, no thinning. Apply even strokes keeping a wet edge. Work fast on large areas. Don't over work the finish. Get it on and let if flow out! (if you wipe the finish back, your removing all the solids in the finish you worked hard to put down)

Wen dry, I will give it a light scuff with a block using 400 or 600 sandpaper staying off the edges. Apply another coat, when dry scuff again with 400 or 600. Depends, but usually 3 coats your done. If your technique is good, no need to rub-out or wax. If you are going to wax...wait until the finish has fully cured. The longer the better say at least 2 to 3 weeks....longer is even better. If not, you could streak the finish.

-Ace-

[sbarton22]

Ok, good advice all around. This is just a small footstool for my wife, so I can still wrap it and put it under the tree. If I think it need most coats or some wax, I can always do that the day after.

I think I will try some of the GF WOP. I haven't heard a bad thing about it.

[dtrust]

If you don't absolutely need an oil finish, this stuff is wonderful, and you can get 3 coats on in a day. It dries smooth and hard and looks great.

http://www.deftfinishes.com/trade/products/waterborne-clear-wood-finish

Also, Minwax Polycrylic (waterbased) is nice also. Either one can be wiped on or brushed on.

Like another said, don't try to rush any oil based finish. Even if it dries, it will still be at least a week until it cures completely.

[HoboMonk]

Classical Errors!

1. Don't assume that all so-called "polys", aka polyurethanes, are all alike; whether regular or wipe-on.

Polyurethane is an ingredient NOT a product and there are NO standards for polyurethane-containing products.

Products that CONTAIN polyurethane can vary wildly in the amount of polyurethane they contain, as well as any other ingredients that are used in the formulation.

Chicken soup CONTAINS chicken, it is NOT chicken. Furthermore, I'll bet my Grandmother's chicken soup is nothing like your Grandmother's chicken soup.

2. Last minute and untested finishing techniques ruin many projects.

Stop and rethink your next step. Choose a simple, tested and known-to-you solution.

Blessings,

Bro. Tenzin

[sbarton22]

While good advice, this GF WOP isn't a scary thing for me.

On the other hand, I tried some waterlox on another project and it set that project back a week. I didn't know how to apply it or how it should look. I couldn't get a solid read on how to prep before application. I tried tung oil and had no idea what I was doing the first time. With GF WOP, and the actual application, I'm not worried in the least. I also can apply more coats after Xmas, so again, no biggie.