Milling Issues

[AdamAronson]

Hi all,

I spent this weekend prepping for and finally getting around to milling some of my lumber. My first struggle is something I figured I'd throw out to the guild as I've never milled lumber for a project this large before.

Specifically, when I was milling part "M" - the long lower stretchers I realized that I had no way of jointing these pieces (minus hand tools) because my jointer bed is only 48" long. On both boards the cupping prevented the high spots on the cupped face from touching the jointer bed all atone time.

I'd move to hand planes but aside from winding sticks (which I have little actual experience using) I have no flat reference by which to determine if the boards are flat. Furthermore, once I get around to milling the lumber for the top will the length of my jointer prove insufficient for the task at hand?

Thanks,

Adam

[cts1085]

What I have found when milling parts longer than my jointer is to place the material cup-side up. Once it starts to flatten in the middle then after each pass it flattens closer and closer to the edges.

This is the process I have been using on the 96" long top boards.

Maybe someone else has an idea?

[Beechwood Chip]

In this video, skip to 8:00. For setting up the roller stands to handle a long piece, skip to 5:00. Also, +1 to TomFoolery.

[AMarshall]

You could try making some passes on the jointer that stop halfway to knock down the highest spots. Eventually you should get to where you can take a full length pass. For safety stop halfway and shut down the jointer before lifting off the board.

The other idea would be to make a long planer sled and shim the boards on top of the sled. Then you could send them through a planer and get pretty close before shifting back to the jointer.

[alaporte]

Adam,

I agree with Tom's method but one thing to watch out for is that you end up taking a lot of material off. I had a similar problem on one of my boards and by the time the board was flat and straight it was too thin.

It may be best to use another board for the long runners and use this board for shorter pieces where flatting them will not lose a whole lot of thickness.

Andy

[Jodavis]

do you have a long straight edge?

also part m is only about 46 inches long so why dont you cut to a couple of inches longer than what you need then joint them rather then try to make a long board straight you will lose less material by jointing close to the length you need i would do this with the most warped or cupped ones.

as far as the longer ones well some type of clamped straight edge, a board that you were able to joint, sheet goods, metal ect with a circular saw could be used to straighten.

besides most 6 inch jointers are only 48" long or shorter anyways i would think you would be fine

but hand planes imo would be the way to go. but im a bit of a hand tool nut

[AdamAronson]

Thanks to a floor the great suggestions! I'll try a few of these options and report back. The milling I did for part "m" was mostly done on the jointer while the piece was ~49". Because it was slightly bowed the high spot that hit the blades first (at the "front" of the board) was off the out feed bed by the time the back high spot hit the blades. Obvious results.

I'll try a few of the suggestions here for the longer boards. Thanks again!