Bobby Slack Posted September 1, 2010 Report Share Posted September 1, 2010 I am not sure if this post belongs to joinery or hand tools, may be both. Here it goes. The other day I was trimming my solid edge banding (I like using 3/4" stock and apply glue plus dominos) ... and when I was trimming the edges with a very bad shooting board, I noticed tear out ... crap! My smooting plane is tuned up and the blade is sharp. My passes were gentle ... I tried putting a backing scrap piece of wood in the back. Any ideas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mlingenfelter Posted September 1, 2010 Report Share Posted September 1, 2010 When I hear tear-out I think Face or Edge grain. I think you are talking about End grain? A common practice when using a shooting board is to put a small chamfer on the outside edge of the board, being worked on. This would be the edge that the plane will be exiting on. This small chamfer helps support the end grain fibers as they are cut. You can use another board to back up that edge, but it will need to be held very tight against that edge. I find it much easier to put a small chamfer instead. Also, you might see this condition referred to as "spelching" by some. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jlloydparks Posted September 1, 2010 Report Share Posted September 1, 2010 I agree with Mike that supporting the work with another board or a small chamfer is in order to help prevent spelching. It also might be time to rebuild the fence on the shooting board. If your fence is not supporting the work then this leads to finding other non-optimal solutions. Sometimes I am lazy and use my bench hook as a shooting board, the fence never supports the work in this case. I always have to make sure to chamfer that back edge or support it with another piece of square material. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PurpLev Posted September 1, 2010 Report Share Posted September 1, 2010 chamfering the edge of the board is essential when you are planing the board freehand and it doesn't have any back support. but with a shooting board- the fence IS the backer board so a 2nd backer board seems redundant and can only lead to more problems (keeping everything aligned and tight) from the sound of it - the piece you are shooting is either extending too far out leaving the back of the piece unsupported, OR your shooting board fence needs a remake. bottom line - the back of your board does not have full support which prevents the tear out. first - try pulling the board more inwards so that you are only shooting a sliver off of the edge, if that still produces tear outs - check the edge of the fence, it might have gotten off straight, and the edge of your board is not fully supported -in which case, replace the fence. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bobby Slack Posted September 1, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 1, 2010 Thank you very much all of you for your great advice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RenaissanceWW Posted September 3, 2010 Report Share Posted September 3, 2010 If I am fitting a piece I will often use a marking gauge to scribe exactly to width and then I will chamfer to that line. then I hit the shooting board and work til the chamfer is gone. If you still need to trim more off then flip the board over and angle it on the shooter. Make two passes. That will cut a tiny tiny chamfer. Then flip the board back and shoot as normal for two passes and check the fit. Rinse and repeat as necessary. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BuilderBill Posted September 4, 2010 Report Share Posted September 4, 2010 ... and when I was trimming the edges with a very bad shooting board, I noticed tear out ... crap! ....Any ideas? Uhhh, make a better shooting board? Bill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bobby Slack Posted September 4, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 4, 2010 This is what I plan to do this weekend. Got the article from Matt Kenney on small boxes and basically that is what is going to be for so I am ready for getting it done. Uhhh, make a better shooting board? Bill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bobby Slack Posted September 4, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 4, 2010 I just went to the Lie-Nielsen website and saw this http://www.lie-nielsen.com/catalog.php?sku=1-51 I am drooling Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HoboMonk Posted September 4, 2010 Report Share Posted September 4, 2010 If your intended finishing won't be compromised, you can use a little 1 lb cut shellac to stiffen the end grain to resist to help resist tear out. Wetting the wood with a little denatured alcohol can also help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bobby Slack Posted September 4, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 4, 2010 Thanks, I forgot about the "wetting" technique. I have denatured alcohol for my ultra light backpacking stove. Oh boy the beauty of the forum and "I get by with a little help of my friends" If your intended finishing won't be compromised, you can use a little 1 lb cut shellac to stiffen the end grain to resist to help resist tear out. Wetting the wood with a little denatured alcohol can also help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaulMarcel Posted September 4, 2010 Report Share Posted September 4, 2010 I just went to the Lie-Nielsen website and saw this http://www.lie-niels...og.php?sku=1-51 I am drooling Holy crap, they don't give that away. I could understand if they added some innovations to it, but as is typical of LN, it is a direct clone of a Stanley. When Woodcraft has a 15% off sale on LN, I got their iron miter plane for my shooting board. It's mass helps make very nice cuts. It looks like it would have more mass than the shooting plane you referenced. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bobby Slack Posted September 4, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 4, 2010 Thank you for that one. Before getting this plane I need to get a set of saws, a rasp, a fore plane (I prefer bigger planes). For now, I think I will use my Nbr 7 or my smoother and get away with what I have. I just could not help noticing this plane and posting it. At this moment 500 bucks for a dedicated tool is a bit much for me. I would rather get the chisel plane ... now I am getting off topic again ... is my ADD ... LOL Holy crap, they don't give that away. I could understand if they added some innovations to it, but as is typical of LN, it is a direct clone of a Stanley. When Woodcraft has a 15% off sale on LN, I got their iron miter plane for my shooting board. It's mass helps make very nice cuts. It looks like it would have more mass than the shooting plane you referenced. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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