MikeDunlop Posted May 12, 2012 Report Share Posted May 12, 2012 I am having a problem with my tail vise installation. The vice moves the full length very smoothly when the the flange nuts are tightened snuggly by hand, however once I tighten them with the wrench, I am getting a lot of resistance. After putting in the upper left flange bolt (viewing from end with bottom up) the other bolt goes in very tight. My only thought is to make the hole a little larger so that the bolt goes in easily and then retry it. Does anyone have any ideas? Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vic Posted May 12, 2012 Report Share Posted May 12, 2012 Mike, from what I'm getting from your explanation, you're right on. Give yourself more clearance. I am having a problem with my tail vise installation. The vice moves the full length very smoothly when the the flange nuts are tightened snuggly by hand, however once I tighten them with the wrench, I am getting a lot of resistance. After putting in the upper left flange bolt (viewing from end with bottom up) the other bolt goes in very tight. My only thought is to make the hole a little larger so that the bolt goes in easily and then retry it. Does anyone have any ideas? Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeDunlop Posted May 13, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 13, 2012 Woo Hoo!!! I bored the flange bolt holes a little bit and now the vise is smoooooth! The money I laid out for the vise just became justified. I hope the leg vise turns out this smooth. I apparently ended up a little deep with my mortises for the rails. This became aparent when I fully extended the vise and the plate moves over the bottom of the slab. I met resistance where the plate was hitting the slab. A few strokes of the plane took about 1/32" off and then it was then smooth. Now I need to make a few dogs so I can utilize the vise on the legs. I am thinking I may need to order a new bit. The mortises in the legs are 2" deep and I only have a 1 1/2" spiral bit. Any recomendations on where to order a longer spiral bit? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barron Posted May 13, 2012 Report Share Posted May 13, 2012 Do you mean the entire bit is 1 1/2" long or the cutting part? If its the cutting part, my 1/2" spiral up-cutting bit with an 1 1/4" 'spiral' worked fine in a Porter-Cable 690 plunge router. If you do need a new a new bit, the Guild discount at Rockler is always a help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
allencrane Posted May 22, 2012 Report Share Posted May 22, 2012 Glad it worked out...I completely agree with Vic, as I had a similar problem. My issue stemmed from the flange bolts not being in perfect parallel (I drilled them by hand, post end cap placement), so when they snugged down tight, they produced enough torque on the mechanism to aggravate what would otherwise be a smooth gear-driven block. I also had some rubbing of the threads inside the hole, which I had to sand out. Creating slightly more clearance for the bolts and the threaded rod allowed me to get the parallel of the bolts without creating the extraneous torque. Certainly satisfying to know that the fix is relatively simple, especially given the price/quality of the hardware. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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