SRF12980 Posted November 23, 2012 Report Share Posted November 23, 2012 I HAVE SEEN THOSE METAL PLANER BLADE/KNIFE SHARPENING JIGS, AND ALTHOUGH ACCURATE, THEY ARE COST PROHIBITIVE. I DO SHARPENING HERE IN NORTHERN NY FOR THE HOMEOWNER AND CONTRACTORS AND NEEDED TO MAKE A JIG FOR THOSE DISPOSABLE DOUBLE EDGE PLANER BLADES. I SQUARED UP A PIECE OF HARDWOOD ON A SURFACE PLANER AND CUT A 2 INCH SQUARE PIECE ON A TABLE SAW, THEN CUT A GROOVE IN ONE OF THE CORNERS ABOUT 7/16" DEEP. THE DULL KNIFE FIT INTO THE GROOVE AND HELD THE KNIFE AT A 45 DEGREE ANGLE. MY EARLIER CONCEPT USED WOODEN WEDGES SPACED ABOUT EVERY 2 INCHES ALONG THE BLADE TO KEEP IT SNUG IN THE JIG. THE JIG AND BLADE WAS ROTATED SO THAT THE UPPER CUTTING EDGE OF THE KNIFE CONTACTS A FINE GRIT - 1X30 INCH - 120 GRIT SANDING BELT ON A ROCKWELL BENCH SANDER. TWO PASSES WERE ALL IT TOOK TO SHARPEN THE KNIFE, BUT LEFT A "WIRE EDGE" THAT HAD TO BE REMOVED. SO I USED A DIAMOND HONE MANUALLY TO REMOVE THE EDGE. MY REASON FOR THIS POSTING, IS, I LOOKED AT THE VIDEO ON TAPPING WOOD FOR MACHINE SCREWS/BOLTS. I WANT TO MODIFY THE KNIFE JIG TO ACCEPT MACHINE SCREWS AND PRESSURE BARS TO HOLD THE KNIVES IN THE JIG AND ELIMINATE THE WEDGES. I HAVE A LOT OF KNIVES TO SHARPEN AT ANY GIVEN TIME. ALSO GO THROUGH A LOT OF WOODEN WEDGES. I WAS THINKING OF USING A TAP FOR A 10 OR 12-24 THREADED MACHINE SCREW BUT AM WORRIED THAT IT MIGHT BE TOO SMALL TO USE AND NOT PROVIDE ENOUGH OF LOCKING PRESSURE IN THE WOOD. WHAT SAY YOU? I COULD PROBABLY GO WITH A 1/4-20 THREAD BUT NO BIGGER. AGAIN WHAT IS YOUR INPUT? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Heinbuch Posted November 23, 2012 Report Share Posted November 23, 2012 I have no advice for you on the jig, but next time could you please not use all upper case letters. It looks like you are yelling at us. Thank you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jsiard Posted November 24, 2012 Report Share Posted November 24, 2012 It might help if you posted a picture, it's a little difficult to envision what you are describing. That said, if it looks like what I am picturing you could use either T-nuts, nuts and washers or just tap the pressure bar. Could substitute shim stock for wooden wedges? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jfitz Posted November 24, 2012 Report Share Posted November 24, 2012 SRF - you might want to put some sort of threaded insert into the wood first, and use a set screw inside that to tighten up on the knife. This should keep it snug in the jig. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CessnaPilotBarry Posted November 25, 2012 Report Share Posted November 25, 2012 If your doing this daily, I'd think a Deulen jig would pay dividends: http://www.woodcraft.com/PRODUCT/2083107/33856/DEULEN-12-JOINTERPLANER-KNIFE-SHARPENING-JIG.ASPX?refcode=10INGOPB&gclid=CKP7vr3q6LMCFQSf4AodVGsA1Q Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted November 29, 2012 Report Share Posted November 29, 2012 I got the planer knife jig for my Tormeck wet wheel sharpener. Jig was over $125 and that was over 10 years ago, but it produces an edge that is far sharper than any sharpening service I have used. Boards come out of the planer with a sheen because the cut is so clean. Saves me time and increases quality, not really cheaper especially if you value your time, but no more waiting for blades to come back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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