Nowicki20 Posted January 29, 2013 Report Share Posted January 29, 2013 Hello, I plan on putting 2" tall cove moulding around the perimeter of a 4/4 solid wood top. I plan on using a miter joint to connect the sides to the front of the moulding and gluing the cove moulding to the side and end grains of the top. Standard "edge banding" only with cove moulding and solid wood as a substrate. If I glue the moulding flush with the top, will the wood move where it is not glued ( I would have about 1.25" inches "floating" below the solid wood top)? Or in other words move down? Or do I have to worry about the moulding moving above the flushed up top? Also, for the sides where the moulding is glued to the end grain, what do I have to take into account there? I'm sure the movement of the top is liable to break the glue bond or at least cause the miter joint to separate. Maybe I'm wrong? I hope I created an accurate picture, thanks for the help -Adam Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick A McQuay Posted January 29, 2013 Report Share Posted January 29, 2013 If I understand correctly, the wood is going to move across the grain and pop the corners on the moulding. Edge banding works on sheet goods because they are stable but you if you edge band 4 sides of a solid board then things are going to get out of whack quickly. Think about breadboard ends and how/why they are built. If this is case construction then you would attach the moulding to the case, never to the top. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TRBaker Posted January 29, 2013 Report Share Posted January 29, 2013 Adam, McQ is right. Edgebanding is designed to cover the edge of sheet goods, to give the appearance of solid lumber. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted January 30, 2013 Report Share Posted January 30, 2013 I saw a detail once where a guy made a sliding dovetail on the end grain of a top and only glued the miter and first inch at the front corner. Similar to a breadboard. Solid wood top is going to move, long grain molding will stay the same length. Not allowing for it to move is asking for trouble! If you ran a strip of wood under the top and screwed it on through elongated slots you could nail and glue your 2" cove to that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick A McQuay Posted January 30, 2013 Report Share Posted January 30, 2013 I like that sliding dovetail idea. Maybe leave the moulding an 1/8" long. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwacker Posted January 30, 2013 Report Share Posted January 30, 2013 Are you talking about something like this but with a solid wood top? http://www.plowhearth.com/product.asp?r=product_listing_ads&pcode=2487&gclid=CPuD3LfZkLUCFSXZQgod6HoAww If so you use glue/screw blocks just like they did long before plywood was invented. The mouldings dont move the furniture does. Don Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick A McQuay Posted January 30, 2013 Report Share Posted January 30, 2013 Looking through some shop drawings and on some pieces like highboys the top/moulding was a panel; on other pieces it was attached to the case. Hopefully that gives the OP some ideas. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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