Boatworks Today Posted January 29, 2013 Report Share Posted January 29, 2013 Hey Guys, I have a question for the hand plane users here. Admittedly I am more of a power tool person, but on occasion I run into situations where some finesse work could be done faster by hand. I am going to be starting up on a decent sized refinishing project where I need to strip a lot of existing oil based varnish and stain off of mahogany. Most of the pieces are flat faced with basic radius edges. Typically I just fire up the sander and go to town removing the material, but I'm looking to change how I operate a bit so that I am dealing with less dust. What I've started looking into was the option of using a hand plane for removing the existing finish. I've used planes in the past but not enough to know which would be best suited for my needs. From what I have gathered a scraping plane might be a good fit or possibly a #4 smoother? There's too much surface area to do by hand with a card scraper and I don't really care to use a heat gun method as it typically drives the stain even further into the grains (plus still requires a lot of sanding afterwards). I know that sanding is UN-avoidable but I would like to minimize this as much as possible. Looking for suggestions... Anyone have experience with this kind of approach for refinishing? Thank you! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave H Posted January 29, 2013 Report Share Posted January 29, 2013 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boatworks Today Posted January 29, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 29, 2013 Hey higtron, I've used a lot of different strippers in the past and really prefer to only use them on hard 2-part finishes. They tend to be messy and I think they would create a mess of the stain beneath the varnish (making it more difficult to prep the pieces before applying the new material ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CessnaPilotBarry Posted January 29, 2013 Report Share Posted January 29, 2013 How about a #80 style cabinet scraper? I've used one to strip and remove old varnish. I have the Lee Valley version: http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/page.aspx?cat=1,310&p=46266 It's easy to prep the edge, and spares are available so you don't have to stop working. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boatworks Today Posted January 29, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 29, 2013 How about a #80 style cabinet scraper? I've used one to strip and remove old varnish. I have the Lee Valley version: http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/page.aspx?cat=1,310&p=46266 It's easy to prep the edge, and spares are available so you don't have to stop working. Hey Barry, what would be the difference between this and the planes that I mentioned in the top of the post? Having never used any of these, it seems like a plane style would provide a little better control (less chatter on longer pieces) because of the longer body.. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nateswoodworks Posted January 31, 2013 Report Share Posted January 31, 2013 The other downside of strippers is the refinishing, you have two choices either chemicals or environmentally friendly hand cleaner (at least the two brands I have tried did nothing but make me wash my hands and swear) If you live in a rural area like me finding a way to properly get rid of the stripper is next to impossible. Depending on how thick the finish is a scraper will work great but if the finish is real thick going over it with a smoother first then hitting it with a scraper is my recipe. The size of the project is going to determine the scraper. Smaller project a #80 is perfect, I have an old SW Stanley that I could never ask more of. If the project is bigger I would consider either a #12, a #112, or something like the Veritas scraper plane. I came across a #12 last year for $20 plus change, I now barely use my #80. When I bought my #12 I thought it was pretty much cherry until I went to use it, turns out that someone tried to flatten the bed with a grinder of some sort- you can only see it by removing mini roll pins. Took many hours with files and sandpaper but now it's a beauty. Just a warning on something to check if you look to buy used. Also, if I wouldn't have found mine foe such a great price I would have went with the Veritas or the #112 just because I am sure it is easier to use, once you have a few scrap boards behind you the #12 is easy to use. As for the plane, very light settings abs small footprint. The larger the plane the more stock you will remove because the smaller the plane the more it travels over the variances. Either a #3or #4 would be best in my opinion. Let us know how you turn out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TerryMcK Posted January 31, 2013 Report Share Posted January 31, 2013 I would +1 a scraper plane. I have a #85 from Lie Nielson http://www.lie-nielsen.com/catalog.php?sku=85 but there are cheaper alternatives. Have a look for an old Stanley #80 on eBay or Craigslist. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CessnaPilotBarry Posted January 31, 2013 Report Share Posted January 31, 2013 Hey Barry, what would be the difference between this and the planes that I mentioned in the top of the post? Having never used any of these, it seems like a plane style would provide a little better control (less chatter on longer pieces) because of the longer body.. Thanks. It's easier to use removing finish. The wide open mouth lets sheets of finish fall out, it's easy to change grips and direction, and very fast to adjust and switch blades. I prep both edges on mine. I also own both Veritas scraping planes, and find the cabinet scraper better for finish repair and removal. I also really like these -> http://www.amazon.com/Bahco-665XXX-Premium-Ergonomic-Carbide/dp/B000288LP6 The carbide blades are very durable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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