wdwerker Posted September 20, 2014 Report Share Posted September 20, 2014 With a thin kerf blade my 1 1/2 hp UniSaw rips 8/4 stock just fine. I use the micro jig splitters and the Gripper push blocks by the same company. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Bailey Posted September 24, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 24, 2014 So I decided to do a bit of comparison shopping, considering my budget of under $500. I took a look at a few different portable saws, like the dewalt and the bosch, and even test drove them both (the local saw shop also rents saws and let me run a few test cuts just to see what they were like) and they both seemed to rip just fine. i ripped a couple 2x10s that were about 6 feet long and both cut through them no problem. I did notice that both of these saws were quite loud, much louder than my miter saw and that surprised me. The tops on these are also TINY and even though the tops were dead flat, the fences nice and straight (the dewalt fence is MUCH better than the Bosch btw, the rack/pinion adjustment is really accurate) it seemed to rip perfectly straight cuts I would be afraid (due in part to my own lack of experience) to cut anything much bigger than the two cuts I did make. I wouldn't even attempt sheet goods, not that it wouldn't cut them but I'd just be afraid of the stability of the thing... seemed like they would tip over at the drop of a hat even on a decent stand. they just seem.... idk... flimsy, even the well made ones that I looked at. they were both really light so that is probably the big advantage - portability. but for that you get a bunch of plastic parts. then I went back to my friends house and took the delta for a spin and the first thing I noticed was how utterly quiet it was... when the saw is running we could still have a normal conversation, it purred like a kitty, and even running wood through the blade doesn't increase the volume all that much. I also noticed that the fence adjusted extremely easily, and I ripped a 20x40 piece of cheap 3/4 ply I had lying around, ripped another 2x10, and even did a miter cut with the miter fence at about 15 degrees and it worked like a charm... the top is dead flat and kept in good condition with some wax, the fence is perfectly square to the blade, and everything runs smooth as silk. also, from what I can tell, about 90% of the dust ends up in the bottom carriage, where it's supposed to go, so it won't be difficult to rig up good dust collection. he has really taken good care of this saw. so for an extra $100 on some safety gear (the micro jig, a ZCI, and some push blocks to start) I can get this saw for $400 at least to start and have everything I need... he's throwing in the dado stack, 2 blades (a 40t combination blade and a 60t, both carbide tipped and he keeps them packaged in these boxes he made for them), and 2 roller outfeed supports that sit on 2x4 sawhorses. so unsurprisingly I'm buying this delta. I know this thread has been around for awhile and some of you may be thinking "wtf have you been waiting for" but ... I am by nature a methodical person and I never make these kinds of decisions without what I call "deliberation overkill". at any rate, I should be picking it up this weekend... which leads me to a very perplexing question. How the hell to move this monster? It will be easy enough to take off the fence rails and extension table and make it a bit less unwieldy, but this thing weighs a ton. we do have a truck (it's an old u-haul) but the ramp is fairly high and steep and .. well I watched Marc's moving video where the movers almost dropped his saw and now I have visions in my head... One thought I had was to take the top off as well as the rails/extension table which would substantially lighten the load and make it easier to move (in pieces), but that means I'd have to put the thing back together and true it up again (which I am guessing I could do with some trial and error and a few squares). at any rate, we could get a low profile trailer but I have this fear of this top heavy thing tipping even on that (probably irrational but there it is). I don't have to move it far, only a couple miles, but still... any suggestions or ideas are welcome. I don't want to buy the saw and then wreck it getting it to my house... [btw, you see how long winded I am? can anyone guess what I do for a living? heh heh] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..Kev Posted September 24, 2014 Report Share Posted September 24, 2014 Rent a U-Haul with a Tommy Lift.. Works like a champ.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
minorhero Posted September 25, 2014 Report Share Posted September 25, 2014 Moving a unisaw is actually pretty easy. As you suggest remove the fence, and extension wings so the saw just has the middle part of the table. Next you are going to want to remove the bullet motor. To remove it is pretty easy. Find a box or crate or whatever that is about the same height as the bottom of goose egg motor opening. Put a board between your box and the motor opening (a 2x6 works great). Put some cushioning down on the board under the motor (tarp or old blanket) then remove the bolt and large pin holding the motor in place. If done right the motor should come down easily enough onto the cushioning. You might want an extra hand for this, the motor will weigh 60 lbs. During this process remove the belts and disconnect the wires. Now that the extension wings, fence, and motor is removed, pull your vehicle right up next to the unisaw. Put a blanket over the edge of the vehicle so it is draping the ground. Position your unisaw so the back (where there are no big openings or handwheels) is facing the vehicle. Then simply tilt your unisaw up and into the vehicle sliding it on the blanket that you put there. Tada. I would recommend against transporting with the motor in place. That is a really good way to crack either the motor mount or a trunion. This whole process will probably work better with something that doesn't have a high tailgate. I moved mine in a subaru forester. But lots of folks have moved them in mini vans etc. In addition to an adjustable wrench you will also likely want a punch and a hammer to get out the motor mount pin. Some WD-40 or equivalent will also be a good idea. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted September 25, 2014 Report Share Posted September 25, 2014 Last 2 times I moved a UniSaw I pulled the rails and the top but left the motor in place. Just a few bolts for the rails 4 to 6 usually. 4 bolts for the top. Strap the saw down so it doesn't tip, put no straps on the motor ! I have a 1 1/2 hp 120v Unisaw a little newer than yours and a 5hp one from the early 1980s Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Bailey Posted September 25, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 25, 2014 Last 2 times I moved a UniSaw I pulled the rails and the top but left the motor in place. Just a few bolts for the rails 4 to 6 usually. 4 bolts for the top. Strap the saw down so it doesn't tip, put no straps on the motor ! I have a 1 1/2 hp 120v Unisaw a little newer than yours and a 5hp one from the early 1980s will probably do this. as i said we have a full sized truck so strapping it down (without touching the motor) won't be an issue. it's just moving it around that worries me. thanks guys Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted September 25, 2014 Report Share Posted September 25, 2014 . [btw, you see how long winded I am? can anyone guess what I do for a living? heh heh] Either an attorney or full time procrastinator . Now go git you a U-Haul trailer and pick this thing up before I do!! In all seriousness, enjoy many years with your first of many woodworking toys! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Bailey Posted September 25, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 25, 2014 got it in 1 and TIODS, I would love to get a tommy lift but live in a small town and the local uhaul doesn't have any... it's pretty cost prohibitive to drive 70 miles for a truck, drive it back for a 2 mile trip, and another 70 miles to drop it off (I checked, it's actually cheaper if the rental is "local" meaning you return it to the place you rent it from, rather than 'one way' where I could drop it off locally. Silly, I know). anyway, will be picking this toy up this weekend Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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