Looking for a clear, very durable finish for wooden jewelry

[Michael Scherer]

I need to find a clear, shiny finish to go on some wooden jewelry that will stand up to the stresses of everyday use. 

 

Ideally the finish will be clear, waterproof, hard and not sticky, and add some strength to the piece.  I have already tried using clear spray acrylic on another piece and while it gave me the look I wanted, the finish remained slightly sticky for at least half a year until I sold it, and lint and dust stuck to the surface.

 

Here's the piece I need to finish after I sand it.  Thank you for any advice. 

 

 

 

[Pwalter5110]

I have made a lot of pens, and finished the majority of them with CA glue. You can buff CA glue to any sheen, and it's pretty durable. But I don't know how you would apply it to anything that isn't on a lathe.

[AceHoleInOne]

General Finishes gloss High Performance

[..Kev]

Epoxy would work..

[Michael Scherer]

One thing I forgot to mention is the shape of this particular piece with its interconnected loops adds a unique challenge to finishing because the loops will stick together during finishing.  A spray on application might be easiest for me.  I have no idea how I would use an epoxy or even a brush on finish.  Any tips for application would be appreciated.

[Llama]

hmm... any way to finish them before connecting them? 

[rodger.]

Aerosal can of shellac perhaps.

[Michael Scherer]

hmm... any way to finish them before connecting them?

I would but they are carved that way  Check it out

[Llama]

Hmm... Can you finish them before cracking them apart?

If not, I'd suggest rubbing in tung oil. Tricky though.

[Raefco]

Clear fingernail polish, drys fast so it could be coated and repositioned to catch the bare spots, would most likly take a few coats. It would be time consuming but no more so than the rest of the process

[Michael Scherer]

Clear fingernail polish, drys fast so it could be coated and repositioned to catch the bare spots, would most likly take a few coats. It would be time consuming but no more so than the rest of the process

 

I am really liking this idea and I think I will try it unless anyone can give me a reason that I shouldn't.

[Raefco]

If you want to get really fancy, check into the gel nail products with the ultra violet light for a really quick hard set, let's just say, I'm not to good to do what ever gets it done... LOL

[..Kev]

I must admit this sounds like a really cool idea!  Let us know when and where you're going to purchase it so we can watch 

[wtnhighlander]

I've done several wood jewelry pieces and wood guitar picks with thin CA glue. Just flood it on and use a toothpick or bamboo skewer to wipe off any drips. Wears really well and is glossy.

I can't think of any simple way to do chain links quickly, though. One at a time, don't let any runs stick 'em together. At least it dries pretty quick.

[bob493]

clear nail polish and clear lacquer (not acrylic) are the same thing. If you applied acrylic lacquer and it never dried, it was probably applied incorrectly (sorry, but it needs to offgas to dry, and it never "cures") 

 

 

Anywho, durable, inexpensive, and easy to apply. Pick 2.   2k is probably what you want, nitro isn't super durable. CA doesn't build. Poly... I just don't like poly myself, but to each their own.  You can use a preval and get a pint of 2k and some hardener, but that'd be expensive for one peice. 

[AceHoleInOne]

Now I see the pic had posted. I would think a thinned oilbased poly would work. Perhaps dip the piece, let the finish run off and keep wiping with a cotton rag till you get the excess finish up.

-Ace-

[AceHoleInOne]

Now I see the pic had posted. I would think a thinned oilbased poly would work. Perhaps dip the piece, let the finish run off and keep wiping with a cotton rag till you get the excess finish up.

-Ace-

[Indy Cindy]

Fingernail polish is easily removed from fingernails with acetone, aka fingernail polish remover. I don't know if it also removes it from wood but I would be hesitant using it on a bracelet that could encounter it and the finish be damaged by it. Plus applying it would be a PITA.

 

Shellac is easily re-dissolved by ethanol. Ditto on avoiding using that on jewelery unless it is top coated.

 

Since you like the look of the acrylic go with that. Spraying light coats of acrylic will work. It dries quickly. Recoat it after 30 minutes and less than 1.5 hours. Otherwise you have to wait 72 hours to recoat it. I like Minwax Polycrylic. Don't be concerned about covering every single link on each spraying. Suspend the chain on something, give it a light spray, emphasis on light, shake it a bit so the links don't stick together, let it hang for the 30 to 90 minutes. Denub then repeat. I would use a synthetic sanding cloth to get your irregular surface. Avoid using steel wool on your light wood when using a water borne finish or you could get streaks of rust.

 

 

 

 

[Michael Scherer]

Fingernail polish is easily removed from fingernails with acetone, aka fingernail polish remover. I don't know if it also removes it from wood but I would be hesitant using it on a bracelet that could encounter it and the finish be damaged by it. Plus applying it would be a PITA.

 

Shellac is easily re-dissolved by ethanol. Ditto on avoiding using that on jewelery unless it is top coated.

 

Since you like the look of the acrylic go with that. Spraying light coats of acrylic will work. It dries quickly. Recoat it after 30 minutes and less than 1.5 hours. Otherwise you have to wait 72 hours to recoat it. I like Minwax Polycrylic. Don't be concerned about covering every single link on each spraying. Suspend the chain on something, give it a light spray, emphasis on light, shake it a bit so the links don't stick together, let it hang for the 30 to 90 minutes. Denub then repeat. I would use a synthetic sanding cloth to get your irregular surface. Avoid using steel wool on your light wood when using a water borne finish or you could get streaks of rust.

very helpful, thank you Cindy