nateswoodworks Posted February 23, 2013 Report Share Posted February 23, 2013 I have turned for quite a while but more for the furniture I build than anything else, but now I am going to make new handles for my bench chisels and picked up some BEAUTIFUL curly maple for this. I have never turned something on this level. I have Jet 1236 and the standard chisels plus a real nice spindle gouge with fingernail grind that I got from an amazing turner (wishing I had some Easy Wood chisels right about now) I tried on a small piece just to practice, a very sharp gouge and a real light touch left me with ok results but still had some tearout. I am going to try wetting the stock and see if that would help but would really appreciate some advice. Having my skills challenged plus gorgeous tools in the end, how can one resist that? Any guidance would be greatly appreciated. Thank you. Nate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indy Cindy Posted February 23, 2013 Report Share Posted February 23, 2013 Jimmy Clewes suggests putting dilute shellac on the areas that are soft and tend to tear out. He makes his own shellac by dissolving blonde shellac flakes in alcohol, but I imagine diluting some commercial stuff would be fine. He applies the shellac and lets it dry a few minutes. This stiffens up the fibers allowing them to be cut more cleanly and have less tear out. I don't think water would work for this as you suggested, and might make problems worse since I think it would soften the fibers. Cindy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid-woodworker Posted February 23, 2013 Report Share Posted February 23, 2013 I agree with Cindy, the water will not help. I have used lacquer to harden spalted areas before but when was the last time the gouge was sharpened? The softer the wood, the sharper the tool needs to be. I have some of the easy wood tools and I do not think they would help you here either. I find that they do cause some tear out it is just shorter tear out. Sharpen your tools and practice on some pine or poplar. It is soft and cheap. Once you can turn your handle in pine, then go back to the maple. BRuce Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid-woodworker Posted February 23, 2013 Report Share Posted February 23, 2013 Cindy, diluting the store brand shellac does work, I do it all the time for non turned projects. I have some little cups like those used for measuring medicine and scoop out one part shellac and then fill it again with alcohol. Once mixed, it is a good wash coat. BRuce Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger T Posted February 23, 2013 Report Share Posted February 23, 2013 Nate, Since you are spindle turning, I would crank the speed up as fast as I can get it. Speed is your friend in this case. Remember, in spindle work, you always want to cut downhill for beads and coves. A really sharp skew may or may not help with tearout. I've both good and bad luck using one on very curly materials. You can try using sanding sealer, shellac, lacquer thinned down. Sometimes though, you still have to resort to the 80 grit gouge. You know we expect pictures dont you?? HTH, Roger 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duckkisser Posted February 23, 2013 Report Share Posted February 23, 2013 like roger and the others said sharp tools, cut down hill, but i would plan on sanding more then usual good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nateswoodworks Posted February 28, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 28, 2013 Sorry it has taken me a bit to respond, I figured I would wet the would because with hand planing it can help eliminate tearout, but if in turning that is not the case then thanks for steering me away. My tools are very sharp (kinda obsessed with that) But I will try cranking the speed up and give that a try and if it is still a problem I will try the shellac. It will be a bit before i get a chance to play around with it as I have had a few more things added to "the list" but I will be sure to let you know how it goes. Thanks again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AceHoleInOne Posted February 28, 2013 Report Share Posted February 28, 2013 I mostly work with figured woods. Water does help with straight knives on a jointer to reduce tear-out. I have turned very little figured wood on my lathe. But the few times I have, water was a friend, it helped...didn't eliminate. Try the water route first before hardening the wood with a shellac or something like that. And like Roger suggested, have that 80 grit gouge handy :) . I'm interested in your results. I have tiger maple leg stock on the way and looking forward to your findings. -Ace- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris H Posted February 28, 2013 Report Share Posted February 28, 2013 I agree with what has been said so far. In my experience with curly maple (actually just finished a bowl last night of it) you can eliminate a lot of tear out with either laquer or shellac. Because it's curly, I would reccomend using O.B. Shine juice (1:1:1 BLO,Shellac,Denatured Alcohol) because it will help to "pop the grain" while reducing tearout. When you are getting ready to make you final cuts, just wipe it on with a paper towel with the lathe going. 15-20 minutes later is usually long enough for the shellac to setup for the purpose of reducing tearout. Then just make a very light pass over the piece with a freshly sharpened tool (I prefer a scraper). And don't worry about taking off all the Shine Juice. Once you are sanded and happy with the peice just apply another coat of shine juice before your top coat. It will blend in really well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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