Daniel Kuehl Posted May 15, 2013 Report Share Posted May 15, 2013 This here is my stripped down....no frills tenon jig made from scrap wood. It gets the job done....and maybe I'm just not used to it, or not used to the process, or something...but I don't like using it. I need to push with more force to get the wood through the blade...but I figured that it was due to a few factors: height of the cut was 2 3/4" and the wood was QS White Oak. Even so....It felt uncomfortable. I cut 6 tenon cheeks and everything went without a hitch and I'm happy with the results, but I think this jig could be upgraded. I'm on the hunt for some new ideas. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted May 15, 2013 Report Share Posted May 15, 2013 Clean sharp thin blade with a blade stiffener would be my first upgrade. Just how clean is the surfaces the jig was riding on? Spotlessly clean surfaces well waxed or some sort of friction reducing substance is your next step. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daniel Kuehl Posted May 15, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 15, 2013 Table is waxed, but not the fence. Blade could probably be sharper, but I'm putting off a 2nd blade (spare) for a few more months yet. It doesn't bog down on shallower cuts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan S Posted May 15, 2013 Report Share Posted May 15, 2013 what type of blade did you use, and how powerful is your saw? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daniel Kuehl Posted May 15, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 15, 2013 I used the stock combination blade that came with the Porter Cable 270TS. The motor is 15 amp (I think 1.5 hp). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChetlovesMer Posted May 15, 2013 Report Share Posted May 15, 2013 Your design is basically the same thing I use. I haven't experienced your issue, but even so I've often wondered if it would make sense to add a handle or some kind. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwacker Posted May 15, 2013 Report Share Posted May 15, 2013 Although many people use those I would not. Id make or buy one that rides in the miter slot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan S Posted May 15, 2013 Report Share Posted May 15, 2013 I used the stock combination blade that came with the Porter Cable 270TS. The motor is 15 amp (I think 1.5 hp).I think this is probably the problem. You're basically making a very deep rip cut, with a combination blade, on a lower power saw.This is the combination blade I use, and it's not recommended for making rip cuts deeper than 1-1/2"http://www.freudtools.com/p-32-combinationbr-nbsp.aspxa 2-3/4" deep cut in hardwood is no easy task. To make cuts like your making, you want a rip blade like one of these for example.http://www.freudtools.com/p-36-thin-kerf-ripbr-nbsp.aspxhttp://www.freudtools.com/p-37-thick-stock-ripbr-nbsp.aspxwhy are your tenons so long by the way? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChetlovesMer Posted May 15, 2013 Report Share Posted May 15, 2013 If you really struggle, you could always build a sled and use a dado head. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daniel Kuehl Posted May 15, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 15, 2013 I think this is probably the problem. You're basically making a very deep rip cut, with a combination blade, on a lower power saw. This is the combination blade I use, and it's not recommended for making rip cuts deeper than 1-1/2"http://www.freudtools.com/p-32-combinationbr-nbsp.aspx a 2-3/4" deep cut in hardwood is no easy task. To make cuts like your making, you want a rip blade like one of these for example.http://www.freudtools.com/p-36-thin-kerf-ripbr-nbsp.aspxhttp://www.freudtools.com/p-37-thick-stock-ripbr-nbsp.aspx why are your tenons so long by the way? I think this is why I'm having the problem. The tenons are long because they are going to be keyed with an oak wedge. I considered using my router to make the cheeks, but decided against it because I already had the tablesaw tenon jig. In hindsight.....it probably would have been a better way to go to make this cut. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pghmyn Posted May 15, 2013 Report Share Posted May 15, 2013 You could build this: http://woodgears.ca/tenon/jig.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daniel Kuehl Posted May 15, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 15, 2013 You could build this: http://woodgears.ca/tenon/jig.html That's a pretty fancy jig....might be cheaper to just buy one! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G S Haydon Posted May 15, 2013 Report Share Posted May 15, 2013 IMHO I don't think I would ever want to cut a tenon like this (although I know it'a a popular way to do it) so much blade projection makes me feel a little queasy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Bienlein Posted May 15, 2013 Report Share Posted May 15, 2013 That's a pretty fancy jig....might be cheaper to just buy one! No it wouldn't be cheaper and you actually get some practice on some joinery skills. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted May 16, 2013 Report Share Posted May 16, 2013 Get the Freud thin rip blade! It will cut a narrower 3/32" kerf. I have gotten extra thin strips from a board because of it. 1/32 of wood saved per cut can add up pretty quick. One of my UniSaws is 1 1/2 HP (but it is not one of the weak peak HP rated stuff they sell today.) A thin blade makes ripping thick stock much easier on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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