CJC5151 Posted May 24, 2013 Report Share Posted May 24, 2013 I recently got a job for 30 3x4 table tops in a restaurant/bar...what is the most durable finish out there for this.type of job...finish will have to holds up to cleaners, heat, and abuse daily...the wood will be different exotic slabs (wenge, paduk, yaya, chechen, iroku, celtis). Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tkf530 Posted May 25, 2013 Report Share Posted May 25, 2013 Epoxy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer_J Posted May 26, 2013 Report Share Posted May 26, 2013 Did a bar 8 years ago with epoxy. Still pretty much exactly the way it started except its a matted finish now. Bleach, simple green, 409, coffee juice beer wine food 16 hours a day for 8 years. Still rock solid Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwacker Posted May 26, 2013 Report Share Posted May 26, 2013 Depends on wether or not you want them finished or encapsulated. Pretty much everything will be damaged by the bleach rags. For high end I'd sub the tops out to a shop with uv cure. For low end just WB poly but limit your warranty. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AceHoleInOne Posted May 28, 2013 Report Share Posted May 28, 2013 A new water-based product for General Finishes. Haven't used it yet, but hear it's a very tough finish. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaulMarcel Posted May 28, 2013 Report Share Posted May 28, 2013 Depends on wether or not you want them finished or encapsulated. Pretty much everything will be damaged by the bleach rags. For high end I'd sub the tops out to a shop with uv cure. For low end just WB poly but limit your warranty. UV finish would be my choice Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwacker Posted May 29, 2013 Report Share Posted May 29, 2013 CV impact shatters when thick enough for a table top. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AceHoleInOne Posted May 29, 2013 Report Share Posted May 29, 2013 CV impact shatters when thick enough for a table top. Interesting comment, do you have more on this subject? -Ace- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwacker Posted May 30, 2013 Report Share Posted May 30, 2013 Interesting comment, do you have more on this subject? -Ace- Good CV is for lack of better words to good when you put on a high build really anything over about 5 mils which is the max. They are always banging the tables around in a restaurant for cleaning and moving them together. The thick finish shatters as they get beat up and once it shatter its done. Water gets under the finish and it starts falling off. Its great around the house or a set of cabinets but not laid out thick on tables that are going to see commercial abuse. WB poly is a good middle ground but will fail eventually with the constant bleach rags. UV cure counter top finish holds up to the bleach and will not shatter but of course usually needs to be subbed out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AceHoleInOne Posted May 30, 2013 Report Share Posted May 30, 2013 Good CV is for lack of better words to good when you put on a high build really anything over about 5 mils which is the max. They are always banging the tables around in a restaurant for cleaning and moving them together. The thick finish shatters as they get beat up and once it shatter its done. Water gets under the finish and it starts falling off. Its great around the house or a set of cabinets but not laid out thick on tables that are going to see commercial abuse. WB poly is a good middle ground but will fail eventually with the constant bleach rags. UV cure counter top finish holds up to the bleach and will not shatter but of course usually needs to be subbed out. Really any finish that doesn’t penetrate the wood like oil can shatter/crack if applied too thick. Some solvent/water-based finishes are harder than others. I would imagine solvent conversion varnish being the hardest. My suspicion is chemical resistance is the goal in this case. So teach the bar employee’s to go easy on the tables or else Joe/Jill the refinisher will have more work. -Ace- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CJC5151 Posted June 4, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 4, 2013 A lot of good imput...um assuming a uv finish has to be subed out because it goes down an assembly line ....is that what u guys are talking about. I was really trying to avoid the epoxy look...this is for a high end restaurant and I don't want an incredibly thick finish...any of used the new water based edurovar that was suggested Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwacker Posted June 4, 2013 Report Share Posted June 4, 2013 A lot of good imput...um assuming a uv finish has to be subed out because it goes down an assembly line ....is that what u guys are talking about. I was really trying to avoid the epoxy look...this is for a high end restaurant and I don't want an incredibly thick finish...any of used the new water based edurovar that was suggested Uv is not only assembly line but most dont have lamp setup. Most states have the same smooth shatter resistant finish rules for food service. 5 mil filled open grain. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trip Posted June 4, 2013 Report Share Posted June 4, 2013 ==> avoid the epoxy look you know, there are lot's of different epoxies -- not all of them lay-down thick. Some lay-down thin / clear and make a decent topcoat. The reason they are not used more is cost... Decent epoxy is expensive. I've used system 3's coating and West's 207 for topcoating. I prefer 207's look. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AceHoleInOne Posted June 4, 2013 Report Share Posted June 4, 2013 Yup Endurovar is good. Lots of guys use it for table tops. If you have any questions contact, Rob Szwedo of General Finishes. His telephone number is 800-783-6050. Tell him the various woods you plan on using. -Ace- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwacker Posted June 4, 2013 Report Share Posted June 4, 2013 Your crossing industries. If your going to sell to food service or governments. You have to follow NSF and AWI. Not gunna happen with hobby level finish schedules. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AceHoleInOne Posted June 4, 2013 Report Share Posted June 4, 2013 Your crossing industries. If your going to sell to food service or governments. You have to follow NSF and AWI. Not gunna happen with hobby level finish schedules. General Finishes has a full line of professional coatings. Hence the phone call to Rob. He's in a much better position to answer any concerns the poster may have -Ace- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom King Posted June 23, 2013 Report Share Posted June 23, 2013 Moisture cure urethane floor finish, available in flat, semi, or gloss. You can only buy it from places that sell to professional floor finishers. Practice with it first though. It'll get away from you, and emits large volumes of toxic fumes. It probably contains every solvent on the chart, except for gasoline. People walk on it on floors and it's hard to scratch. No epoxy approaches it for scratch resistance. It also has little to no shelf life once opened. http://www.harcocoatings.com/clears/moisture-cure-polyurethanes.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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